300tdi raised air intake

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ratty

ratty

I'm not special I'm limited edition
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Stuck in a ditch somewhere in Somerset
Hi, Sorry if this has been covered before. I have a 300tdi 110 and have just fitted a military spec mantec snorkel (with a mushroom top not filter housing top). I have sealed all the joints with silicon as instructed but was wandering what happens to the water drain valve on the bottom of the air filter box. The distructions for the snorkel made no mention of wether to seal it up or leave it as is. Can it suck water in or will it self seal when submerged?
many thanks in advance.
 
Ive siliconed mine up and never had any problems, thing is it was put there in the event of the intake on the side being submerged, now you have a raised air intake there shouldn't be any water coming in!!!
cheers
tom
 
tjwaines said:
Ive siliconed mine up and never had any problems, thing is it was put there in the event of the intake on the side being submerged, now you have a raised air intake there shouldn't be any water coming in!!!
cheers
tom
Click to expand...
Cheers Tom. I will do that when I get a chance. I am also thinking about extending my axle breathers. I have heard that you are meant to run them inside the snorkel but I can't suss out how to get them inside without creating leaks. I don't suppose you know how to do it?
 
ratty said:
Cheers Tom. I will do that when I get a chance. I am also thinking about extending my axle breathers. I have heard that you are meant to run them inside the snorkel but I can't suss out how to get them inside without creating leaks. I don't suppose you know how to do it?
Click to expand...

Most people I know who have 'gone to town' with thier breathers have routed all of them to the engine bay, then mated them all together with a manifold type thing then taken one pipe (slightly thicker than the others) from the manifold up the exterior of the snorkel.

Much easier than having to drill then re-seal your snorkel I reackon.
 
Yeah thats exactly what ive done, all connected into a manifold in the engine bay and one larger running to the underside of the wing top, drilled through and up the side of the snorkel to the underside of the snorkel top to prevent water running in. Another alternative and probably better is to put a U-bend (none porcelein type) at the top so absoloutely no water can get in.Regards the extended breather kits, theres one very good thread on here with part numbers listed for a manufacturer and photos to help, also theres a guy ont fleabay selling pre-made kits if your not arsed about saving a few quid.
Cheers
Tom
 
The drain in the filter housing should in theory close up when the engine is running an should close up even tighter if it's under water. Even if the snorkle is water tight water is still going to get in, either through condensation or just getting sucked in when its raining.
 
GRUNT said:
The drain in the filter housing should in theory close up when the engine is running an should close up even tighter if it's under water. Even if the snorkle is water tight water is still going to get in, either through condensation or just getting sucked in when its raining.
Click to expand...

Is there any way of testing a snorkel without submerging in water and waiting for the bang? (removing the mushroom top and putting a hand over the top or somthing)

cheers
 
Aye stuff summat over the intake that wont get sucked in. The more suction the more the drain valve should close on the bottom. Until the engine stalls then the valve will open, so I spose that if yer engine cuts out while the air filter is under water then the valve could let water in.
 
GRUNT said:
so I spose that if yer engine cuts out while the air filter is under water then the valve could let water in.
Click to expand...

At least if it does stall under water as long as you empty the filter and pipes before restarting (on dry land of course) there wont be any engine damage which is what it's all about.

cheers grunt
 
Spect so.

My bike has a tube from the air box running down to a couple of inches below the engine with a bung in the end, every now an again your sposed to remove the bung to drain the water out of the air box. Spose summat like this could be set up on the Landy air box, it'd be better'n gobbing it up permanently.
 
Ratty, there is a YouTube vid on preparing a landie for wading by rugged Guide which shows how to extend the breathers... I found it pretty helpful. may not show you anything you don't already know but may help ...
 
My drain valve was not sealed and the first time i took mine through deep water it sucked water straight in. My air filter was drowned. I sealed mine up and have been through water no end of times since and all is fine. I would just seal it for peace of mind mate.
 
Also, for the axle breathers just run them all into a manifold under the bonnet and then you can get a bulkhead fitting which looks really good if you drill it out just behind the snorkel. You can then run a pipe up the outside of your snorkel and into the mushroom.
 
i ran the breather pipes up in to cable tied to the snorkel and at the top i put a gentle 180 bend in them to stop water ingress.

As for the valve i sealed mine tighter than a ducks arse.

Be warned silicon eventually breaks down if submerged in water or left moist constantly.
Best use a PU sealant i have and my landy goes through deep water at least a couple of times a month and has done for about 5 years now, PU sealant still intact
 
No PU sealant, comes in a tube just like silicone.
its used by folk building kit cars , caravaner's and in the marine industry, this stuff doesn't grow mould and can be completely submerged and not break down. I'm sure it will eventually but the question is when
 
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