yeah so i did the exact route before its up a steep small hill coming out of a ditch type thing without traction control light on or abs light on, and did it fine. did the same route today and had those two lights on the dash and it couldn't get up it. so i my thought process was the the water had damaged the ecu and i dont messed the system up. im not good with the electricsThat doesn't mean you had no drive to the back wheels, as has been said by @AllanWorms with no centre difflock, in that scenario, the rear wheels wouldn't budge and the front wheels would just spin. Once you got onto solid ground the traction control should brake the spinning wheels and allow drive to the other wheels. That is what it is for!
If you had your front wheels spinning and then you were still able to reverse your truck out and "go round" you do have drive to at least some wheels. And if the fronts were spinning why do you think the back ones weren't working and somehow the fronts drove you out of the situation. Or were you going up a hill?
Have a read of this :-
Land Rover Discovery 2 Automatic & Manual Guidelines
Introduction and guidelines for Land Rover Discovery 2 Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS), Traction Control (TC) and Hill Descent Control (HDC).www.offroaddiscovery.com
Loss of 4 wheel drive
- Thread starter tjcantle
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If you are managing to drive rough tracks, ditches and steep hills I don't think you have lost drive to your rear wheels, especially if you do not have the TC light on and the associated buzzing noise all the time.
And if they go off again then you have even fewer problems.
Even if you just have one worn hub that is enough to set all three lights on, TC, HDC and ABS, and they'll stay on until you have changed the hub.
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Wasn't it the D2 that would chew the centre diff in seconds of you spin wheels without difflock?
i didnt hear any awful grinding or crunching sounds so i dont know. I am assuming it would make some bad noises if thats the case
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Not sure if you would. From what I've read.
Hopefully I'm wrong
oh dear
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Reportedly the D1 if you did this without putting the difflock on. But of course then you would HAVE a difflock. In fact I think it was Ashcrofts who recommended you shouldn't really go off road or even green laning without putting difflock on as you started.
As most D2s didn't have difflock actionable from the cabin they must have relied on TC to stop any wheel or pair of wheels from feckin up the centre diff.
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you reckon ive done my centre diff then ?
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NO! not at all!
I think it unlikely you have done anything mechanical to the truck at all, certainly not the centre diff as your is a D2 and has no way of easily putting the diff lock on, unless you know different. They CAME with no lever to put it on back in about 1998/9, relying totally on the "new" tractgion control system, actionable from the cab DLs were only reinstated on certain models by the end of the facelift era. and in fact diff lock can confuse the traction control.
But DO at least jack up one wheel at a time and check that it won't turn with the gearbox in "park" (P) and the handbrake on.
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+1^^^
and I'd change the front diff, the transfer case and the gearbox oil too if they look at all iffy.
If they've not been done in a while it can't hurt.
and I'd change the front diff, the transfer case and the gearbox oil too if they look at all iffy.
If they've not been done in a while it can't hurt.
300bhp/ton
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Or a physics check. If you have no drive to the rear with an open centre diff, you won't go anywhere unless the LT230 has failed and locked up both output shafts. I suspect the description of no rear drive is inaccurate.
300bhp/ton
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Doubtful considering that is designed to spin the wheels to make the TCS work and most D2's have no centre diff lock....
300bhp/ton
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No exactly correct. The D1 uses the LT230, so works the same as Defender. With the centre diff unlocked it is just an open diff. So power will follow the path of least resistance and thus you essentially have 1wd on slippery or uneven ground.
Excessive front and rear wheel speed differences can cause premature wear to the LT230. Such as sand driving.
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You'd probably help yourself to spend some time on Google and YouTube and learn how a differential works. Then specifically the D2.
The D2 has open diffs in the axles and without a centre difflock you have an open in the centre. A normal 4wd system such as in a Series Land Rover or older Jeeps, when you put it in 4wd it locks the front and rear propshafts together so they rotate at the same speed. The centre diff lock does essentially the same thing by locking the front & rear props together.
Without the centre diff lock the front and rear props can rotate at different speeds. But the diff will send power to the axle with least resistance while splitting torque equally. So if one prop is taking all the power the TCS will brake the wheels on that axle to try and force the other prop to rotate.
This works with varying degress of success. Mostly the TCS works way better with the centre diff lock, hence it became available on some D2 models and every model since has either a lockable or limited slip centre diff. Some conditions will make it very hard for the TCS to overcome the load and rotate both axles or all 4 wheels when all 3 diffs are open.
However, should the TCS not be working, then you are in a 1wd vehicle and it will be mostly rubbish off road.
thank you for this. I am going to have a play around with the electronics and have a look at some of the sensors. I appreciate this. cheers
thank you for this. I am going to have a play around with the electronics and have a look at some of the sensors. I appreciate this. cheers
Diff oil change now or your diffs could get rusty inside.
