300TDI FUSE BOX

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Smoggy

Member
Posts
13
Location
West Yorkshire
Hi there

I've had a few ongoing electrical issues which culminated in me taking my Defender to a mechanic.
He says that I need a new Fuse box. I've had a look around online but they seem to be few and far between.
Any suggestions? I thought I might buy a new unit rather than anything reconditioned.

Many thanks in advance
S
 
Hi there

I've had a few ongoing electrical issues which culminated in me taking my Defender to a mechanic.
He says that I need a new Fuse box. I've had a look around online but they seem to be few and far between.
Any suggestions? I thought I might buy a new unit rather than anything reconditioned.

Many thanks in advance
S

Firstly, I would go at an electrical specialist rather than a mechanic. Secondly, what has caused him to diagnose the fuse box? Can you take a photo of it?

I have seen people fit a pair of 12way blade fuse holders. These are relatively cheap, and readily available.
 
Is the Defender fuse box same or similar to this from my Disco? It does have RR DEF marked on it ...

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Hi chaps - Thx for the replies - here are some pics of the Fuse box. I think I need to speak to the Mech again.

Is it just the black panel held with 2 brass screws that I should be looking for?
 

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Last edited:
Hi chaps - Thx for the replies - here are some pics of the Fuse box. I think I need to speak to the Mech again.

Is it just the black panel held with 2 brass screws that I should be looking for?

What year and engine is it? If it’s 200/300tdi, then as far as I know, yes it is just the one. It’s all my 200tdi has. It doesn’t look too bad on them photos, but I’m viewing on my phone screen.
 
That type of fuse box is usually ok, (blade type fuses) the old glass type fuses are the ones that cause problems.
The fuse holders are just female spade terminals that push into the rear of the plastic holder and are held in place by a small tab on the back of the terminal.
There isn't a lot to go wrong with your type of fuse box other than oxidisation, you need to find out what exactly is wrong with it, I would be very surprised if it really does need replacing, possibly a good clean with terminal / contact cleaner will sort it.
You can get replacement fuse boxes, I got one off fleabay to replace the glass fuses on my 1986 110. I can't remember how much I paid, but it can't have been too much as I'm a tight-ar5e.
What electrical problems were you having?
 
Hi chaps - Thx for the replies - here are some pics of the Fuse box. I think I need to speak to the Mech again.

Is it just the black panel held with 2 brass screws that I should be looking for?

That board looks serviceable to me.

Terminals might need a tidy up or a clean but looks fine - taking the fuse in and out a couple of times will often clean it enough!

Let's scrap the assumption there is anything wrong with the fuseboard - what is the electrical fault you are experiencing?

Let's start fresh here and diagnose it from scratch.
 
My fuse box is the same as that in the photo. Water seeped down the back of it and on rough ground some of the fuses worked loose. Sorted the leak and cleaned the fuses and holders, rarely happens now. Cost zero.
 
Hi....Sorry about the late reply.

Basically the problems started with the engine running on - even though the ignition was turned off. I presumed this was connected to an old immobiliser that was fitted and had it removed - sometimes the car started other times it didn't. This seemed to cure the problem.

Lights, Break lights, front lights worked in different combinations ie: brake lights would not work when lights were turned on. Lights intermittently would stop working, ie Rear left or right, side lights etc.

I tried New rear light clusters etc but it didn't help. Dropped it to mechanic and he said there appeared to be defects with the fuse box (I presume corrosion at the points).

Happy to replace fuse box if it is easier as it is a relatively cheap part (After finally tracking it down)
 
I had similar issus on my 1998 300tdi. Turened out to be massivly frayed cables between the engine compartment and the rear. The connectors that run down inside the chassis. Like everyone else says get an auto electrician to take a look. I did teh same as you and took it to my local defender place but they advised an auto electrician as well.
 
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