300 Tdi Rebuild

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Goc3k said:
Looking a bit kitchen-tabley that workbench as well. Always the best place to work I find :D

were you going to worry about the slightly iffy injector nozzles or did they clean up nicely?
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Good spot with the kitchen table. Bloody freezin outside.

Haven't done anything with the injectors yet. The dilemma is try to clean them and probably compact carp in to the tiny holes in the tip. Or, leave them and hope that a proper burn on the power stroke will clean them.
The dilemma is made all the more difficult, knowing that the original piston No4 started to melt due to the injector not working properly. :rolleyes:
 
Can't believe you've had to strip the engine again :( Hopefully you get it sorted this time mate ;) I would keep the turbo standard for now until your sure all the issues been having with oil usage have been solved you can get standard turbo cartridges relatively cheap on eBay.
 
TorsionBhudda said:
Can't believe you've had to strip the engine again :( Hopefully you get it sorted this time mate ;) I would keep the turbo standard for now until your sure all the issues been having with oil usage have been solved you can get standard turbo cartridges relatively cheap on eBay.
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I don't mind stripping the engine down, but it's a bugger having the Landy off the road. It's the Mrs' daily drive to work and I use it a lot in the fields and woods around here.
Decisions, decisions about the turbo. I was thinking I'd buy a brand new Garrett one, given the issues I've had. Another CHRA is tempting because it's cheaper and I also like to fix things myself. It's another dilemma :rolleyes:
 
Al2O3 said:
I don't mind stripping the engine down, but it's a bugger having the Landy off the road. It's the Mrs' daily drive to work and I use it a lot in the fields and woods around here.
Decisions, decisions about the turbo. I was thinking I'd buy a brand new Garrett one, given the issues I've had. Another CHRA is tempting because it's cheaper and I also like to fix things myself. It's another dilemma :rolleyes:
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During my rebuild I had two injectors checked and rebuild by a small company near here, the guy who did them seems to be very knowledgeable on injectors and makes videos about them, and they were not expensive.
I definitely notice a difference, the engine seems smoother.
Real test will come soon its MOT time.
I tend to agree with keeping the standard turbo, until you get on top of the problems, and I think doing the valve guides is a good idea.
 
raywin said:
During my rebuild I had two injectors checked and rebuild by a small company near here, the guy who did them seems to be very knowledgeable on injectors and makes videos about them, and they were not expensive.
I definitely notice a difference, the engine seems smoother.
Real test will come soon its MOT time.
I tend to agree with keeping the standard turbo, until you get on top of the problems, and I think doing the valve guides is a good idea.
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I bought 4 reconditioned injectors when I rebuilt the engine. They are all carboned up now. But, TBH I haven't had a good look at them with a magnifying glass yet. If I can still see most of the holes in the tip I think I'll leave them and let the tips clean off with the combustion in the cylinder. I'm not going to connect the turbo up, so hopefully there'll be no oil going in. :(
 
Got the head back today
IMG_1609.JPG

Four new exhaust valve guides. Others were fine. Head still nice and flat. I suspect the head gasket hadn't gone.
Anyway, have new head gasket, new head gasket kit, new big end bearings. Just need to put it back together and run it without the turbo for a while.
 
Al2O3 said:
Got the head back today View attachment 193046
Four new exhaust valve guides. Others were fine. Head still nice and flat. I suspect the head gasket hadn't gone.
Anyway, have new head gasket, new head gasket kit, new big end bearings. Just need to put it back together and run it without the turbo for a while.
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I think you will find that it kicks out clouds of black smoke and struggles to get along with no turbo.
Mine once blew the hose of the inter cooler when I fitted silicone hoses, the vehicle slowed to a crawl and spat out a black smoke screen behind.
 
Head looks good!

I'd stick the injectors nozzle down in some thinners for a week or so and not prod them too much if they're just blackened.

And lastly, as raywin says ofc without the turbo you'll be even slower, but if you disconnect the boost from the compensator on the FIP you wont get any black smoke, at least.
 
TorsionBhudda said:
How can you run it without the turbo?
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raywin said:
I think you will find that it kicks out clouds of black smoke and struggles to get along with no turbo.
Mine once blew the hose of the inter cooler when I fitted silicone hoses, the vehicle slowed to a crawl and spat out a black smoke screen behind.
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Goc3k said:
Head looks good!

I'd stick the injectors nozzle down in some thinners for a week or so and not prod them too much if they're just blackened.

And lastly, as raywin says ofc without the turbo you'll be even slower, but if you disconnect the boost from the compensator on the FIP you wont get any black smoke, at least.
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Don't know how it will go. Richard Turner, from Turner Engineering, suggested I did it. I've read a thread on LZ where someone ran their landy with no turbo. About 12 years ago the turbo packed in on my Focus estate and it would barely go over 45mph. I'm not expecting to run it like that for long. 200-300 miles. Disconnecting the boost pipe to the FIP is great advice, Gock3k :)
Will have to think about rigging up a temporary filter to the intercooler :(
 
Would it be possible to put a small catch can in boost pressure line so any oil dropped out.The line is just a pressure signal to the diaphragm we used to use oil water seperators on air supply which where basically a can with a plate down centre that the oil/ water loaded air hit and condensed out and ran down to base.
You are only looking at 1 bar pressure increasing the volume in the line might cause a slight lag but pressure would still build up. Something like this in a low point.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Compress...621494?hash=item288812bdf6:g:kvAAAOSws65duEOe
 
Blackburn said:
Would it be possible to put a small catch can in boost pressure line so any oil dropped out.The line is just a pressure signal to the diaphragm we used to use oil water seperators on air supply which where basically a can with a plate down centre that the oil/ water loaded air hit and condensed out and ran down to base.
You are only looking at 1 bar pressure increasing the volume in the line might cause a slight lag but pressure would still build up. Something like this in a low point.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Compress...621494?hash=item288812bdf6:g:kvAAAOSws65duEOe
Click to expand...
The oil in the FIP is just a possible symptom of the turbo passing oil. Oil shouldn't normally go down that tube, so I'm told!

Got rings on to pistons and pistons installed in to block today. Takes a while lying flat on your back under the engine. Much easier on an engine stand :rolleyes:
New valve stems installed and valve springs fitted in to head and that was it for today. :)
 
Al2O3 said:
Will have to think about rigging up a temporary filter to the intercooler
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Clamp a cone filter onto the inlet manifold, you can get a cheapo one off the bay the right size after some measuring.

i'd also try and route the turbo outlet someplace toward the bottom / outside the engine bay (those cheapo metallic flexi hoses?) - as if it is indeed faulty as suspected it'll belch oil vapour and soak the engine bay very quickly, if it's venting out of the intercooler it'll endup on the drive belt, if i remember the defender layout right.

You'll be alright without it, the usual wheezy 110hp will just be a 65-70hp asthmatic running a marathon instead! Plenty of folks bung 200tdi's into series rovers, don't fit the turbo and have no trouble. Apart from still having a 40+ year old land rover still falling apart, that is :D
 
Goc3k said:
Clamp a cone filter onto the inlet manifold, you can get a cheapo one off the bay the right size after some measuring.

i'd also try and route the turbo outlet someplace toward the bottom / outside the engine bay (those cheapo metallic flexi hoses?) - as if it is indeed faulty as suspected it'll belch oil vapour and soak the engine bay very quickly, if it's venting out of the intercooler it'll endup on the drive belt, if i remember the defender layout right.

You'll be alright without it, the usual wheezy 110hp will just be a 65-70hp asthmatic running a marathon instead! Plenty of folks bung 200tdi's into series rovers, don't fit the turbo and have no trouble. Apart from still having a 40+ year old land rover still falling apart, that is :D
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My RTV has gone solid, so I need to go to Alnwick to buy some more. There's are car parts place there, I'll see what cheap air filter housings they have there. I suppose if the turbo pushes out the sort of oily vapour you describe, I'll know pretty quickly its carped :)
 
No RTV at car parts shop.
Bought oil and antifreeze though.
Got head back on, not easy on your own. All torqued and angle tightened down. Injectors and heaters in. Valve rocker in. Tappets not set yet as was losing light.
Need new air box rubber mounts, why do they always break?
Anyway, it's looking like a whole engine again.
IMG_1619.JPG
 
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Looking tidy in there! Fingers crossed it all soon becomes an oil misted mess.

I feel your pain on not finding RTV, most of the chain motorfactors near me are useless for carrying basic fuses, jubilees, basic hose sizes etc.
 
Goc3k said:
Looking tidy in there! Fingers crossed it all soon becomes an oil misted mess.

I feel your pain on not finding RTV, most of the chain motorfactors near me are useless for carrying basic fuses, jubilees, basic hose sizes etc.
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I've ordered some off eBay. New air box mounts too.
No basic air filter at motor factors either, just expensive ones. Fella suggested taping a sock over the inlet pipe to inter cooler. Not a bad idea! Hopefully, an oily mist becomes apparent very quickly and so I won't need to run it like that for long.
 
aye I'd put the sock on the outlet of the inter cooler (if you're leaving it connected to the turbo), and a filter on the inlet manifold, can see how quickly the sock is soaked then.
 
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