Absolutely, mate. If it doesn't look good enough I'll make the decision about doing it while the head is still off. Can't see it being easy to get the honing tool rotation speed and up and down movement synchronised to get the correct honing mark angle. Potential nightmare
its impossible to cut original honing marks,you take them off as your cutting fresh anything else will polish of before rings bed in, its quite common to hone a block in situ or was, i still do 1 or 2 a yearCan't say I've done it personally (in situ block work of that level) but I have a mate who briefly resurrected an especially wretched old astra that was guzzling oil like water. (which it incidentally also guzzled, hence the strip down).
I believe since the original factory honing marks were still good, it was a 240grit flexi hone job, with no cutting fluid used - so it only removed a very very small amount of material and the hone can only follow the existing marks rather than re-cut them. Really only removes glaze and freshens up an existing job to take news rings (or maybe promote a better mating of newish rings for your situation?), as far as I remember it worked okay - though within the year it ended up being written off by a bin lorry, so might have been a bandage fix rather than long term. I'll drop him a line and ask
Anything more than that, ie re-cutting them entirely and the block will have to come out, some levels of bodging really are too much after all
Fingers crossed that by the time warm weather arrives it has settled down off its own back mind!
How do you get the right angle, James? ie the up and down speed relevant to the speed of the drill?
valves should be ok as long as the have good seals, it helps with a slowish adjustable speed drill and practice a comfortable arm movement you can replicate easily enough aim for 45 degrees between the 2 intersecting lines,it doesnt matter too much if you dont get it spot on to start with as long as there enough at the finish
I knew you were going to say that.
The seals were new Elring ones That sounds easy enough for you
Obviously, you'll be able to tell I'm not relishing the idea of doing it. Is it possible to adversely affect the bore diameter? IIRC you previously said that you only need to do about 15-20 strokes, or am I making that up?
Ok, great. By paraffin lube, do you just mean paraffin in a squirty bottle?
Paraffin it is. What's your success rate when you do this? Suppose what I'm really wondering is what are my chances of success? I'm fairly handy on the tools
very high ,ive not had many needing doing twice in 30 yearsParaffin it is. What's your success rate when you do this? Suppose what I'm really wondering is what are my chances of success? I'm fairly handy on the tools
Good news, I need something positive to hold on to.
I still can't get my head around how the compression test is high, yet oil is still getting past the rings.
your bores are true and unworn unlike an old engine, oil is dragged upGood news, I need something positive to hold on to.
Sorry, James. I still don't get it. How is the oil getting past the rings by being dragged up?
Will the scraper ring not be stopping that?
only if honing is correct , apart from been true and sized surface needs to be right,obviously rings are vital tooSorry, James. I still don't get it. How is the oil getting past the rings by being dragged up?
Ok, James. Sorry for harping on. There's two things going on in my head:
A thicker mineral oil rather than a thicker semi or fully synthetic?
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