3.5 EFI won't start?

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Jason2 said:
Na!!!!!

Eventualy starts after loads of cranking (loads) runs very faintly on a slow tick over and then stalls!
Click to expand...

Well if it will actually start that suggests the fundamental elements are present - air, fuel, compression and sparks.

The question is whay it won't it keep running? Be methodical; this is essential if you are going to get it sorted (be patient it could take some time).

Yours is a 3.5 flapper. The air flow meter is a strong contender for the trouble with running. But lets not jump to conclusions.

If there is a ninth injector (cold start injector at the back of the plenum) try disconnecting it if it hasn't been already. Do a search there is info on this.

See if that makes life a bit better. Make sure the vac advance and mechanical advance are both working on the dizzy and check the static ignition timing if you can't get it to run for a dynamic check.

It might be worthwhile stripping and cleaning the plenum, ram housing and making sure the throttle disc is clean and correctly set. Run a compression test to check for sticky valves.

Let us know how you get on.
 
One other thought; check the throttle potentiometer, that could explain why it won't rev. If you get yourself a Haynes manual you should be able to find the test procedures. All you should need is a good digital multi-meter to check voltage, continuity and resistance.

Another thing that you should do is clean all the main earth points. Take them apart, clean them, re-attach and protect with petroleum jelly. Make sure the battery is good.
 
It appears that the fuel pump (in tank) is not working when the ignition is switched on :mad: It works when you crank the engine over and I think it stops again once started!

Have searched this and it seems a common problem but not found what the solution is???

Cheers Jason
 
Will it not only run untill the pressure is reached and then cut out intill the engine is turned over to start?

Just a guess.
 
mine apeared to do the same, but pump was fine, i would look towards dizzy, vac advance or ignition amplifier. if it was the fuel pump you would not idle??
 
I would'nt realy call it an "idle"!

After more cranking than a cranky thing! it fires up pop's on what sounds like half it's cylinders for about 5 seconds and stalls!
 
If the fue pump was dead it wouldn't fire. Have you checked for fuel pressure like Irishrover said and changed the fuel filter?

May I suggest that you crank it over then take the plugs out and see if they are wet. Then check for a spark - it needs to be a big fat blue spark. If no spark at plugs check for spark off king lead. If no spark there you have an ignition problem.

If the plugs are dry (and it doesn't start) then investigate the fuel system - pump, filter, relay, fuse, pressure regulator. One thing I would say and please don't be offended - have you got plenty of petrol in the tank? don't rely on the gauge, fill a 20l jerry can with fuel and shove it in the tank. Also, it has not been unknown for water to get in the tank, that would cause a few start/run problems. Is the tank in good condition? The earlier metal tanks are known to corrode.

Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
The fuel pump is not dead! When you turn the ignition (dash lights on) no pump! turn the key to crank and the pump start's working and when you stop cranking the pump stops!

Changed rear filter that was full of crap!
 
Remove the dizzy cap and swing it out of the way. Unplug the main (King) lead from the cap and holding it with a pair of WELL insulated pliers about 6-8mm away from top of rotor arm (The brass wiper), get someone to crank the engine over. If sparks jump accross, the rotor is fecked and most of the HT voltage will be dropping to ground before even reaching the plugs. Even though you have fitted a genuine, new rotor, carry out this test just to be sure that everything in that area is 100%.
Diagnostics is working your way through all relevent areas, step by step and resisting the temptation to jump a step or two because "It was only recently fitted and is new".
Check and double check that all connectors are located correctly and are 100% good.
I know you have used only genuine HT parts....Good Man!! , but there is always a slight chance that a faulty part slipped through the net.
Just remember, whatever the type of system..all it needs is Fuel, Air and a spark at the right tome to run.

:behindsofa:
 
As Classic Kev said the fuel tanks can rust, and I see you`ve changed filter, but that can block up again very quickly. May be premature to take tank out and clean it , but have you got a clear in-line filter fitted? Even if you only use one temporarily, one could be slipped into line just after tank to check on flow, dirt/rust?
 
Mine had the very same thing, and after many days of searching i swapped the ignition amplifier, the spark looked awesome, there was fuel, everything was there, even paid a well known recovery company to come look, in the end i rebuilt my dizzy thinking it was the advance mechanism, still did not work so looked at the black box on the side, did not know what it was, it only cost 20 quid on the internet, swapped it and it fired first time,

if you do swap it dont make the same mistake i did, i blew the first one through poor instillation,
i disconnected batt, disconnected ecu, fitted the amp, re connected ecu then re connected batt, overkill i know, but for 20 quid i think it is worth a check.
 
No! still not running :mad:

Not like me to have not sorted it by now, but I have been too busy,especialy with getting my 110 ready for it's m.o.t.

Will let you know as and when ;)
 
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