250k miles, help with engine health checks/diagnosing

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currymunster said:
The spec from land rover is 360 from cold. 400 is high but you are really looking for no more than a ten percent imbalance between all four.
Do the compression again stone cold as the metal expands when hot and can hide things. It's just for peace of mind really.
Your smoke could well be injectors, I'm having the same problem with mine after a run away 😭
It could also be that someone has fiddled with the injection pump and boost pin. The trouble I find is once something has fiddled there is no way of knowing or how to put it back to stock original.
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I always thought they should be done hot?

Since I've owned the car I've done the timing belt but never fiddled with the pump or fitted boost pin/ring. I guess there must be a way of setting it all back to default. Maybe worth looking into before I fit a new belt. 👍
 
flatline said:
I always thought they should be done hot?

Since I've owned the car I've done the timing belt but never fiddled with the pump or fitted boost pin/ring. I guess there must be a way of setting it all back to default. Maybe worth looking into before I fit a new belt. 👍
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I always try and do both to get a comparison but doing it cold will show up problems sooner as all the metal components are cold and relaxed. Once the metal gets hot it expands and then any small gaps are sealed.
You can do the timing belt now, the adjustments I'm talking about are on the top of the FIP where the throttle linkage is. There is a diaphragm with the boost pin fitted, a previous owner may have fitted a boost pin which causes more smoke, then there is a toothed wheel which can be changed and the adjustment of the diaphragm height. I don't know of any way of knowing what they should be as standard because I believe they are set to each individual pump from the factory 😔
If you find out I'd love to know.
Remember there are two slots on the fly wheel. Don't muddle then up. Remove the oil cap and turn the engine over by hand until valve rocker number 2 goes down. Just as it stops at it's most downward travel is just a little bit before TDC. You can't get the wrong slot then 👍😁👍
 
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flatline said:
What difference would the intake make?

EGR is removed, has been since I bought it 👍
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From the compression result's you have cylinder 2 and 3 must be getting more air than 1 and 4. This is the selling point of the twin intake thingy. Someone on here posted the fitting of such an intake a couple of month's ago
 
D1Nut said:
From the compression result's you have cylinder 2 and 3 must be getting more air than 1 and 4. This is the selling point of the twin intake thingy. Someone on here posted the fitting of such an intake a couple of month's ago
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I thought the idea of the twin intake was to balance the air input across all of the cylinders to 160cmm
That would mean they are all getting the same air intake. Is one actually fitted to the OP engine. I had a quick read back and couldn't see it anywhere?
Or maybe I'm just tired...lol 😴
 
currymunster said:
I thought the idea of the twin intake was to balance the air input across all of the cylinders to 160cmm
That would mean they are all getting the same air intake. Is one actually fitted to the OP engine. I had a quick read back and couldn't see it anywhere?
Or maybe I'm just tired...lol 😴
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No my reply was ambiguous - The selling point is to get balanced air across all cylinder's
 
I'm not sure the air intake will effect the actual compression reading. The compression is once the valves are closed and the piston is rising up and compressing the air and fuel mixture. As long as they are all within 10% of each other it is fine. As far as the flow plugs are concerned they are normal. 👍😁👍
 
D1Nut said:
You need a boost gauge to give you any real answer on the smoke you mentioned. Those compression numbers are good. Was it a cold or hot test ?
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Boost gauge arrived, where's the best place for it? From a diagnostic point of view.

There's a t piece on the small pipe that's on the turbo. Not sure what was there before but is that any good for it?

Cheers
 
That small pipe with a T-piece will work.
During my testing I used the connection that goes onto the top of the FIP with a t-piece. a lot less heat in that area
Mine is on the top turbo hose thereby showing me if there are any leaks as well
Used a valve from a racing bicycle tube thru the silicon hose and into the cab from there - been like that for 8 years or so and the setup hasn't leaked/come apart yet
 
Cheers for the reply, will have a go at weekend.

Spotted another potential problem today, was working on the car and had the rear in front of the white garage door, rear end was on drive on ramps. Had to start it a few times and noticed oil spatter on the garage door from the exhaust.

🫣
 
I replaced the rear crank seal at weekend, just checked under the car to see if the new is leaking and spotted this.
 

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I'm off work for a week or so, looking at the last few pics do you think it's worth taking the turbo off and checking it out rather than just fitting the boost gauge?

Cheers
 
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