2004 L322 Petro 4.4L Camshaft control Bank 2 fault.

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Sylvester

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Gents I'm getting a "Camshaft Control Bank 2 fault." error. I changed out the timing guides two months ago and re-timed the engine and the car starts fine. but I was getting a "Camshaft Control Bank 2 fault" error and the engine was making a strange noise and I was told it was the Vanos seals that were bad. I sent both Vanos to get resealed and I re-timed the engine with the Vanos timing kit and got two beeps on ohms testing.I also installed a new camshaft sensor (non oem) and I'm still getting a "Camshaft Control Bank 2 fault". Please advise?
 
No worries, not really up on the 4.4 since selling mine 3 years ago, but I was sort of hoping that you just willynilly changed the cam sensor as a birthday present to the engine whilst doing the timing side of things and came unstuck with a sh!t replica part.
Bon chance.
 
Anybody have any suggestions on why I'm still getting a camshaft control bank 2 fault? I installed a new sensor, had the vanos rebuilt, installed a new camshaft solenoid and retimed engine with vanos kit. The engine purrs and seems to have full power. Please advise?
 
There is a oil leak on to my spark plugs on bank 1. I put new gaskets but its' still leaking. Perhaps that's causing the issue you just described. That might also get rid of a Lambda error on Bank 1 one that also start appearing.

Thank you !!
 
The oil leak in the spark plug well will not be the cause of low oil pressure.
That is caused by one of two things.....a nick in the new gasket or as @Saint.V8 alluded to, you may have a duff PCV valve.
I had bad rocker gaskets and unknown quantity PCV, all changed it was tight as a drum.

Back to oil pressure, I believe there is an oil control valve in the R/H head ( and possibly the L/H), it's role I think is to maintain pressure for the vanos.
I hope I'm not talking rubbish, I'm sure I've seen said little valve on microcat or similar.

I'm unfamiliar with the two beeps,thought it was just one for continuity, not ohms?
@holidaychicken did his recently, maybe you can compare notes, although not seen him on here for ages.:(

Edit..found this>https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m62+engine+oil+check+valve&tbm=isch&imgil=Yrm5-GdQvyECMM%3A%3BdlamDa79izX0kM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.pelicanparts.com%252FMore_Info%252F11121706921.htm%253Fpn%25253D11-12-1-706-921-M9&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Yrm5-GdQvyECMM%3A%2CdlamDa79izX0kM%2C_&usg=__OPg-wiMT0UhfIk0IDXrUwAbj0V8=&biw=695&bih=311&ved=0ahUKEwjh-bXYx7vUAhXmDcAKHQIHAgQQyjcIOA&ei=ij1AWeGMKuabgAaCjogg#imgrc=yVMvIYROcB4TIM:
 
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Understood. This check valve did fall out when I took the cams off on bank 2 to rebuild the lifters. Perhaps I put it on wrong or perhaps its bad. I will check this.
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The check valve behind the vanos could fall out if the o-ring is worn, but it is not really under any pressure when the engine is not running. Did you put a new o-ring on it? The o-ring is the source of resistance when pulling it out.

I don't think that this is your problem - maybe if you did not put it back in. Before you rip into it - do you recall how you put it back in? I am not sure if it will sit correctly if you put it in backwards as it may extend too far and not allow you to put the Vanos Distribution Piece on flush. If you are really unsure I can go and try it backwards with a set of heads I have in the garage.

Did you try turning the timing wheel counter clockwise about 1mm? For my over advanced issue, doing this was my solution. You only have to take off the valve covers and loosen the trigger wheel - use the index hole in the upper timing cover and a 5 or 6mm alan key. Ask for more details or look up the procedure - many have this issue.

One other thing to do is flip your cam sensors around - they are the same. Also flip the solenoids and see if issue switches banks. How did you remove these? If done wrong you can break them.

What tool (scanner) are you using to give you the fault code?
 
If you have not done the Valley pan and associated hoses - then pull the entire manifold and do it at once. I would use the URO valley pan - superior design and less expensive.
 
I did the valley pan, rebuilt my lifters, new water pump, new alternator, rebuild vanos, Timing chain and guides, new tensioners, camshaft sensors, etc. I'm just going to pull off the vanos and valve covers and check the oil check valve and install a new PCV. Hopefully that will solve my problems.
 
Before tearing apart your engine I would first swap your camshaft sensors, swap your Vanos solenoids (or at least connect 12v to them and see if they click) then try moving your timing wheel (this requires only the valve cover removal on the offending side and removal of the oil lines on top of the cams so you can turn/hold the camshaft.

I will go out and check if one can install the check valve backwards and report back. I doubt the valve is bad - it is just a ball - you should have noticed if it was gunked up if you handled it.
 
Okay - I pulled a head out, installed the check valve in backwards and tried to install the Vanos Distribution Piece - it will not sit flush as the check valve sticks out too far when backwards. So you could not have installed anything if the check valve is backwards. If you forgot it, how did you keep the gasket from falling? The gasket hangs on the check valve - so if you had a serious struggle keeping it aligned and it kept falling down then maybe you forgot it.
 
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