Freelander 1 2003 TD4 Not starting

Andy_J · Mar 5, 2016

Hi All

Last night my Freelander cut out as I was driving home, luckily it was just as I left the office car park.
It will crank over fine but will not start.
It is not showing engine management light.
Not had any problems with it since I bought her 9 months ago (started fine, no flat spots or power loss).

AA man told me last night that his diagnostic showed fuel pressure on the LP fuel lines but no pressure at all on the HP lines. (no pressure on HP side when cranking engine)

Having done a search, I have checked the following
1. Injector leak off - no leak off with ignition on
2. Injector leak off - no leak off with starter being cranked
3. Fuel filter changed
4. Fuel pump in rear arch - runs for 40 seconds, then stops - restarts when engine cranked
5. connections to pressure sensor on LP side clean
6. connections to pressure sensor on HP side clean.

Would a failed pressure sensor HP fuel rail cause engine to cut out or not start on a MY2003. Is there a way to test the sensor? Or is it more likely the HP pump has failed? Is there a test I can do?

Andy

guineafowl21 · Mar 6, 2016

I'm not sure how likely it is that the HP pump has suddenly failed without making lots of noise. Most cars of that vintage have had the HP rail sensor harness upgraded +/- the HP sensor replaced, so consider that.

Did the AA man tell you what the LP side pressure was, or about any trouble codes? I think it needs to be at least 34 psi or the ECU will cut the engine to protect the HP pump - it is lubed and cooled by fuel.

There is a high pressure regulator bolted to the HP pump - check the wiring to that has not come off. It would be interesting to know what the command signal to this component is, but that would require a diagnostic plug-in.

Andy_J · Mar 6, 2016

I am sure the AA guy said the LP side was about 300kpa, which is about 43psi.
I have checked the electrical connector to the HP pump and the fuel rail regulator and was connected and didn't look corroded.
I have only checked visually for damaged/broken cables. need to get my multi-meter out.
I have a cheap ELM diagnostic tool which showed no trouble codes, but can't read much else.
I am going to invest in a better diagnostic tool which is JLR specific and can read live data

guineafowl21 · Mar 6, 2016

Andy_J said:
I am sure the AA guy said the LP side was about 300kpa, which is about 43psi.
I have checked the electrical connector to the HP pump and the fuel rail regulator and was connected and didn't look corroded.
I have only checked visually for damaged/broken cables. need to get my multi-meter out.
I have a cheap ELM diagnostic tool which showed no trouble codes, but can't read much else.
I am going to invest in a better diagnostic tool which is JLR specific and can read live data

Have a look at @pscan.eu - they do a tool that should do yours.

Andy_J · Mar 8, 2016

Went with the icarsoft LR2 as it covered my range rover as well as the Freelander.

Checked the LP side and it sits at 100 (kpa? no units) until engine is cranked then goes up to 400(kpa? no units) and holds at that until you switch off
HP side is showing zero and doesn't change
Regulator sits a 0.5 with ignition on and changes to 1.5 when cranked. Falls back to 0.5 after cranking

Not sure if this is more information? any suggestions?

Gogadget · Mar 8, 2016

Hi andy I have the I 930 and the low pressure side also has no nits. I have emailed icarsoft support today to ask and am waiting an answer. Will let you know . Mine sits at 399 ? on tick over

td4van · Mar 8, 2016

Should be 380ish kpa and if the low pressure reading is too low it will disable the injectors to protect the high pressure pump

Andy_J · Mar 8, 2016

Just realised I missed something off my previous post. (done an edit)

When the engine is cranked the LP goes up to about 400kpa and holds at that until the ignition is turned off, no change on HP side always reads zero

td4van · Mar 9, 2016

Check the cam position sensor output ideally using a scope - should have 5v, Earth and signal when cranking

Andy_J · Mar 9, 2016

Checked a couple of the voltages, couldn't work out how to test with connectors attached so just checked supply
Cam sensor seems to have supply voltage of 12v and Earth.
HP Pressure sensor 6v and earth
HP Regulator 9v dropping to 7v.

Given the readings I don't think any of the cables are broken,
I am thinking probably HP sensor failed and as it is reading zero the ECU is shutting off the injectors?
Is there a resistance test or anything I can do on the HP sensor?

hd3 · Mar 9, 2016

Is there a resistance test

might be difficult .. as the resistance changes via the shape of the diaphragm
see attached pic:

i'd suggest using this :
http://contralube.com/contralube-770/
on the fuel-rail-pressure sensor wiring plug / socket pins
( and on other engine 'sensors' .. and the injector wiring connectors )
*********************************************************************************

Andy_J · Mar 9, 2016

hmmm. looks like the electrical connectors are on either side of the diaphragm, given the way mine broke down and the zero PSI reading I think I will try and check the sensor for continuity, could be burst diaphragm in sensor.

guineafowl21 · Mar 9, 2016

Andy_J said:
hmmm. looks like the electrical connectors are on either side of the diaphragm, given the way mine broke down and the zero PSI reading I think I will try and check the sensor for continuity, could be burst diaphragm in sensor.

To test a component with the connector connected, you 'back-probe' it. Bend a paper clip out, sharpen the end a little and insert this into the back of the connector between the wire and the rubber seal. Keep it straight, and be very careful not to cross connectors if you use multiple probes.

redwood · Mar 10, 2016

BMW say the rail pressure switch has a life of 10 years, mine was electrically in good order but mechanically it was buggered. .

Andy_J · Mar 10, 2016

going to bite the bullet and go with getting a new sensor.

Iwan · Mar 11, 2016

Mine had done the same thing but it turned out that it was the sensor in the high pressure pump had failed and was blocking the fuel from going to the injectors. Cost about £300 in a land rover specialist garage

Andy_J · Mar 11, 2016

eek! did you have a new pump fitted or did they just replace the sensor/regulator?

Nodge68 · Mar 11, 2016

The pressure sensor is quite expensive. There is an official modified harness for it too. My TD4 SE has had both a new sensor and the harness. Your fuel rail pressure should fluctuate between 20000Kpa and 80000Kpa.
This is my replacement harness fitted. The plug is a different colour for identification.

Iwan · Mar 11, 2016

Andy_J said:
eek! did you have a new pump fitted or did they just replace the sensor/regulator?

It was just the sensor I got replaced. Before it went it was very slow at starting, I replaced the glow plugs but no luck then it just failed to start completely one morning so I took it to them and 7-8 fault codes came up so they test fitted a new sensor to it and she fired up straight away

Andy_J · Mar 11, 2016

Nodge68 - thanks, I have the old loom and have done a continuity check and it checks out, I think I am at the stage where it is try some parts, already ordered the sensor, will be either the loom or pump next

Iwan - no fault codes on mine or slow starting, just no fuel pressure. If the rail sensor doesn't work then I will look at the pump regulator. may get away with not having to fit a pump

Freelander 1 2003 TD4 Not starting

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