Yeah, must be a dodgy photo.
Lets hope so!
Yeah, must be a dodgy photo.
Either a better tester or try a cam sensor or wiring to sensorUpdate.
Today I have triple checked the timing. The left cam as you look at it the pin slots straight in. The right cam will also go all the way in but at a slight angle. With both cams locked the crank locking tool slots in perfectly. While all locked up I undid the 3 bolts on each can sprocket and also undid the Tensioner. Then redid the Tensioners and tightened the sprocket bolts. Hand cranked the engine 4 times and everything line up exactly as before.
I put the car back together and she fired up first time......switched it off and on again and no start .
at this point I plugged it in to a basic code reader and came up with PO341-00 cam sensor.
sometimes the car will start and drives normally with no smoke and all the power. Other times it will just crank.
I’ve driven the car for 10 miles after clearing all errors and no no errors are stored . Every time the car doesn’t start it will store the same PO341-00.
NO OTHER CODES APART FROM ONE TIME OUT OF 20 C1A00-88.
new battery
New crank sensor.
Battery and alternator both working normally.
any advice from here guys?
Thanks
Thanks Lynall. The right cam was a **** to locate the pin in the first instance . When I sat at an angle I mean literally a couple of degrees. And it will go in all the way, but I do need to twist and wiggle it out. The left one just falls in.
Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with an I’d tool.
I’m guessing that there’s a dodgy wire related to the cam sensor somewhere..
the car was fine before so yeah it’s definitely something that I’ve done.
Brilliant. Thanks Johnlad, Lynall and Gstuart. excellent suggestions that I wouldn’t have thought of.
the fact the timing pin is slightly on the **** really doesn’t sit right with me, Also I did round off the crank nut with a 12 sided socket, so maybe that isn’t tight enough..... Ill replace that first and torque to spec.
Agreed12 point/bi hex sockets are the work of the devil, only needed to match certain fixing heads, the reat of the time 6 point is the way to go.
T.A.F ain’t it.Anyone know the torque spec on the crank bolt?
Anyone know the torque spec on the crank bolt?
FIXED.
So today I stripped it down yet again. (I reckon I could do this blindfolded)
With the flywheel locked and the os cam locked and the ns locked (but on the ****) I undid the 3 bolts on the cam pulley and then just moved the main cam bolt very slightly (felt like a couple of degrees) until the pin was in straight. Then tightened up. And torqued the tensioner.
Then while all 3 locked removers the crank bolt replaced it with another new one and torqued to spec.
refitted the motor and started on the button each time. Went for a 20 mile drive, no issues and no codes .
many thanks to you guys for your excellent advise.
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