2.5TD how to get correct coolant level?

Do you fill it to the cold level marker with the engine off or turn the engine on and jeep filling to the cold level? Thanks

It's in RAVE, fill to level and start the engine with the cap off the expansion tank, see that there is flow from the little pipe between the RAD and expansion tank, this is esential. I rapidly squeeze and release the hoses to encourage the air to come out.
It also helps if the care is slightly nose up. Top up as required.

Sorry not at home so no rave manual. Do i want it sitting at the cold level when the engine is warm?

ySo said:

Sorry not at home so no rave manual. Do i want it sitting at the cold level when the engine is warm?

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Think the word COLD gives you a clue

So have i overfilled as i did start the engine and topup to cold level. Left it running for 10 min and the engine temp shot up and the coolant started overflowing out the expansion tank.

Whats happened?

The issue im having is coolant is rising over 5-10 min of the engine running. When i turn the engine off it bubbles and overflows.

What am i doing wrong??

Have you got water pumping back to expansion tank from the little pipe?

No but if i squeeze the rad tubes water does come out it.

If its not flowing from the little tube you have a major air lock or a duff pump
I pull the little pipe off the rad then fill till water comes out of it (engine off)usualy this makes it above the cold leval so let it drain till it is at level the pop the pipe back on start her up and check for flow
Keep an eye on the level over the next day or two

ySo said:

So have i overfilled as i did start the engine and topup to cold level. Left it running for 10 min and the engine temp shot up and the coolant started overflowing out the expansion tank.

Whats happened?

Click to expand...

hi yso, just got in and noticed your thread, have you sorted it ?, and whats your location ?

If its an air lock how do i fix that?

Im in Aviemore bob.

also, what is that part at the top of this pic that has the pulley with no belt on:



and the plug with the green wire in the middle of this pic, what's that for as it was disconnected:



If any of these things have to do with air suspension then that's fine as this range rover has been converted to springs.

Top pic is the AC compressor. Don't know about the plug..

I think the plug is the feed to the A/C compressor clutch, you should see the other plug on the rear top of the compressor

Should it have a belt on it? seems like it was disconnected completely if that plug was for it too

ySo said:

also, what is that part at the top of this pic that has the pulley with no belt on:



and the plug with the green wire in the middle of this pic, what's that for as it was disconnected:



If any of these things have to do with air suspension then that's fine as this range rover has been converted to springs.

Click to expand...

the first pic is of your A/C pump with two pulleys and its belt tentioner, dont know what the other one is about, if the car wasnt over heating before ? and its just an air lock its just a case of being patient with it, ive swapped out a water pump once before with no air problems and, a thermostat with no problems, a month ago i put a genuine stat back in to replace the after market one and couldnt get the air out it took all day, did you drain right out, the engine, and the radiator ? if so you need to fill the engine with coolant first (with both rad hoses off but attached to the rad)untill it starts coming out of the right hand side of the engine, then slightly push the left hand hose onto the thermostat housing so that it will leak out when you fill the rad up by using the right hand rad hose, once the rad is full push the stat hose home ( dont worry about doing any thing up yet) and replace the right hand side hose to the engine, now pull the right hand hose off of rad and pour coolant in to fill hose then reconect to rad as quick as poss so theres as much coolant in there as possible, check the header tank is quite full but not to the brim, dont worry about overfilling at the moment, start the engine and let it run, keep an eye on the temp gauge and check the right hand rad hose for heat (this may take a while) both hoses should be getting hot and the stat should open to circulate the coolant around the engine, you can turn the heater on full in the car to see if thats blowing hot, then squeeze the right hose hard to see if there is any coolant level rise or drop in the header tank then do the same with the left hose, if there both changing the header tank coolant level i would think the stat is open (im sure ill be corrected) tighten all your hoses and check the temp gauge, check header tank level, fill to about half way up header tank or take some out as the case maybe keep some coolant with you and go for a drive, keep an eye on the temp, but stop frequently checking the temp of the two hoses and be carefull undoing the header tank cap, top up as need be if the system has took the coolant, if air persist park with the front drivers wheel on the curb and undo the small return hose on top of the left side of the rad (be carefull dont snap it off or its a new rad for you) and see (on tick over) if coolant spits out dont be in a rush it does take time, it should get the last bits of air out, tighten every thing up and drive it to get it to pressurise the system, your gauge shouldnt go past half way 12 oclock position but some p38s do run under half way, FILL ENGINE FIRST.THEN RADIATOR.THEN BLEED. it worked for me, good luck.

If there is no flow out of the small pipe, either the pump is shot or the stat is not opening.

Easiest way to remove air lock is to start again, drain radiator (Not cylinder)
Follow the instruction in RAVE to the dot, don't rush and do exactly as said
It's a sensitive procedure, flat surface required
If the top hose is higher than coolant level, (Keep level at base of neck works for me) air is likely to get trapped, push hose down or squeeze to get air out.


Personally I leave the bleed hose off until coolant spurts out without air.
From Rave
12. Disconnect radiator bleed hose at the radiator.
13. Blow through hose to clear any residual coolant.
Reconnect hose.
14. Fill expansion tank until coolant is level with
base of neck.
15. Start engine, continue filling at expansion tank
until coolant level stabilises at the ’COLD
LEVEL’ marking.
16. Run the engine until the thermostat opens (top
hose becomes warm).
17. Stop engine, allow to cool.
18. Check coolant level, top-up as necessary.
19. Refit expansion tank filler cap.

Air could be trapped in the heater matrix as well

Back to it today!

There is a steady stream of coolant out the little hole in the top of the expansion tank. Should i leave it idling with the cap on or off?

Why does it overflow out the expansion tank when i turn the engine off When its up to temp?