tomcat59alan
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2.5DSE 1996-97 temp gauge
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Warm/hot. Driven it for over 40kilometers, then come to a stop and try the trick.
I assume it works, because i heard that people say its loud and roars and it definetly roars uphills, sounds like a truck not gonna lie.
12 a clock would be it.
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
It should ease off when warm and then lock up when hot. If locked up all the time it is seized. I guess you could get extra cooling but I think it pushes air through the rad so by 40mph the ran of air going the other way will fight it. Have to check how the find are orientated. Also, locked up all the time might cause extra strain on the water pump.
It is not seized i believe. Turned it around when engine were off, were abit hard but went around slowly. Small force had to be used, as it couldnt just get pushed by a finger, some force were needed. also it didnt spin around like if it were on a bearing, as a wheel.
It stopped when the force was removed to say it mildly
It stopped when the force was removed to say it mildly
Its still a problem 
I've bleed it, properly in my eyes and touch.
Steady flow from bleed pipe on top of radiator when hot, at idle. I did as rave said, clean out the expansion return hose from bleed pipe (with a bicycle pump)
Is it suppose to flow out coolant from the bleed pipe hose to expansion tank at idle? or just when reving the engine?
Anyhow, the only thing i can think of is that i sat on the radiator a few times whilst undoing the intake manifold. Could this just be a baffle?
I just dont really understand how my car is bled properly, yet sometimes my gauge goes from 12 to almost red in 2-3 seconds like waaaaaat??????
Today i drove up a hill (like 400m), came to a stop at redlight and it got up nearly to red after 3-4 seconds max at standstill. The car were steady 12 a clock before the uphill, and were steady 12 a clock whilst driving uphill (just 400m) and not the worlds steepest hill.
Am i in need of a new radiator perhaps?
I've bleed it, properly in my eyes and touch.
Steady flow from bleed pipe on top of radiator when hot, at idle. I did as rave said, clean out the expansion return hose from bleed pipe (with a bicycle pump)
Is it suppose to flow out coolant from the bleed pipe hose to expansion tank at idle? or just when reving the engine?
Anyhow, the only thing i can think of is that i sat on the radiator a few times whilst undoing the intake manifold. Could this just be a baffle?
I just dont really understand how my car is bled properly, yet sometimes my gauge goes from 12 to almost red in 2-3 seconds like waaaaaat??????
Today i drove up a hill (like 400m), came to a stop at redlight and it got up nearly to red after 3-4 seconds max at standstill. The car were steady 12 a clock before the uphill, and were steady 12 a clock whilst driving uphill (just 400m) and not the worlds steepest hill.
Am i in need of a new radiator perhaps?
RangeRoller dt
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Radiator (Diesel only)
*Remove marble.
If/when you ever get a new rad do the marble test first before fitting. Some don’t have them from new and aren’t suitable for p38s.
If the rad is full of holes or not connected firmly with good hoses/clips air can get in.
- If your going to take the rad out that’s best time to do the water pump as you’ll have room. You can take the old one out and if it’s fine refit it. If it’s not okay you will know straight away when it’s in your hands/falls to bits
- You can remove the stat and drive it with no stat fitted short term. If it solves your issue put new one back in. This is easy enough without removing rad
Removing these parts will fill the system with air. Once everything is refitted fill with correct mixture of coolant/water as much as you can. Helps to park RHF up hill (with RHD vehicle)
Start it up and let it tick over. As the system pumps & warms the level will drop and the air will come out. Keep topping it up and squeezing both hoses until it’s full and fully warm. At that point there should be no more bubbles.
- Take the rad out (PIA with R380)
- Clean it down and flush it out with a hose pipe. (Both ways) should be clean not full of brown gunk as you mentioned.
- Visually inspect
- Roll a marble through one end across the top with rad upside down
*Remove marble.
If/when you ever get a new rad do the marble test first before fitting. Some don’t have them from new and aren’t suitable for p38s.
If the rad is full of holes or not connected firmly with good hoses/clips air can get in.
- If your going to take the rad out that’s best time to do the water pump as you’ll have room. You can take the old one out and if it’s fine refit it. If it’s not okay you will know straight away when it’s in your hands/falls to bits
- You can remove the stat and drive it with no stat fitted short term. If it solves your issue put new one back in. This is easy enough without removing rad
Removing these parts will fill the system with air. Once everything is refitted fill with correct mixture of coolant/water as much as you can. Helps to park RHF up hill (with RHD vehicle)
Start it up and let it tick over. As the system pumps & warms the level will drop and the air will come out. Keep topping it up and squeezing both hoses until it’s full and fully warm. At that point there should be no more bubbles.
Cheers, will check the baffle at friday after work
I think i will just take off both hoses, use a flashlight in the end and use a mirror at the other end, because i am reliant on the car and if i dont have a new radiator handy then ill just drive carefully, as i am already.Where is it recommended to purchase radiators from? I heard nissen usually includes the baffle? I usually buy stuff from Britishparts, but ive done brookwell once. Also ebay.
brianp38dse
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Nissens is the go to for the rads, good price and quality.
Looks like my baffle is fine? regarding my coolant color, perhaps not the best shape?
I will flush it tomorow i think
I’ll prob get the radiator out and hose it out with the garden hose.
Easy to get rad out and leaving the viscous in?
I will flush it tomorow i think
I’ll prob get the radiator out and hose it out with the garden hose.
Easy to get rad out and leaving the viscous in?
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That looks a lot yucky. Be better for a changeLooks like my baffle is fine? regarding my coolant color, perhaps not the best shape?
I will flush it tomorow i think
I’ll prob get the radiator out and hose it out with the garden hose.
Easy to get rad out and leaving the viscous in?
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Looks like my baffle is fine? regarding my coolant color, perhaps not the best shape?
I will flush it tomorow i think
I’ll prob get the radiator out and hose it out with the garden hose.
Easy to get rad out and leaving the viscous in?
That doesn't look right.
Easy to get out. Mine has a drain plug on the bottom. Hoses off. Unclip the viscous housing. Might have to remove the SLAM panel but cannot remember to be honest. Bit of cardboard over the radiator fins to protect them.
Ewait what? My baffle is bad? Isnt it rigth there tho?
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
No, the colour of your coolant.
Welp, i ran the car with some rad cleansing wonder liquid and i ran it for a good half hour as the liquid told me to.
Then drained the radiator, and i even got that hella block coolant drain plug out.. and back in with loctite. God damn it was hard to get out, had to find the penetrating fluid then it went quite easily yayy.
I probably could've used my car ramps but im not the biggest guy, but even for me it wasnt the luxurious space.
I couldnt get the radiator out, thoose blue plugs in the bottom was like beneath the viscous fan or smth and couldn't get it out.. But i stabbed a garden hose into the outlet and inlet and wollah it did get clean inside atleast., all clear water running out from block and rad.
Filled it up and burped it some.
Haven't done a test run yet to check if my overheating is gone, but it was atleast present today whilst i drove to the store to get the rad cleanser and coolant! aprox 80km drive total.
Hopefully my issue is fixed, but the car will still get a waterpump and thermostat change. Any recommendations in thermostat brand?
BTW my inner white pipe inside the radiator has fallen down, its fit up on the roof of the radiator. dont know if it matters? as i stillg et float out the small bleed pipe
*Edit:* Saying it is overheating is not rlly 100% true either, the gauge is fluctuating.
Then drained the radiator, and i even got that hella block coolant drain plug out.. and back in with loctite. God damn it was hard to get out, had to find the penetrating fluid
then it went quite easily yayy.I probably could've used my car ramps but im not the biggest guy, but even for me it wasnt the luxurious space.
I couldnt get the radiator out, thoose blue plugs in the bottom was like beneath the viscous fan or smth and couldn't get it out.. But i stabbed a garden hose into the outlet and inlet and wollah it did get clean inside atleast., all clear water running out from block and rad.
Filled it up and burped it some.
Haven't done a test run yet to check if my overheating is gone, but it was atleast present today whilst i drove to the store to get the rad cleanser and coolant! aprox 80km drive total.
Hopefully my issue is fixed, but the car will still get a waterpump and thermostat change. Any recommendations in thermostat brand?
BTW my inner white pipe inside the radiator has fallen down, its fit up on the roof of the radiator. dont know if it matters? as i stillg et float out the small bleed pipe
*Edit:* Saying it is overheating is not rlly 100% true either, the gauge is fluctuating.
Last edited:
Still got issue after flush.
Will update this thread when i get the water pump and belt changed. Awaiting pump part. My head is thinking it might be a not so 100% effective water pump, or possibly a sticky thermostat, i dont know 100%. (Can not locate plastic impeller parts, so assume the impeller is intact) Atleast not inside the rad!
Prob will take 2 weeks to get the part.
Will update this thread when i get the water pump and belt changed. Awaiting pump part. My head is thinking it might be a not so 100% effective water pump, or possibly a sticky thermostat, i dont know 100%. (Can not locate plastic impeller parts, so assume the impeller is intact) Atleast not inside the rad!
Prob will take 2 weeks to get the part.
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Keep going and keep you spirit up. We are here to help, encourage and make funStill got issue after flush.
Will update this thread when i get the water pump and belt changed. Awaiting pump part. My head is thinking it might be a not so 100% effective water pump, or possibly a sticky thermostat, i dont know 100%. (Can not locate plastic impeller parts, so assume the impeller is intact) Atleast not inside the rad!
Prob will take 2 weeks to get the part.
Keep going and keep you spirit up. We are here to help, encourage and make fun
Thank you, when are you available to come and change my waterpump, accesory belts, tensioner, pulleys, etc? I’ll ofcourse make you a sandwich
jkjki just find it odd brookwell not responding to me, after a week and 2 tries.
Is the water pump from Britishparts any good? They’ve got a metal one.
And, one thing i find odd about my viscous fan, when i start it up and car is cold is the viscous locked while driving up to heat? Since my car sounds like a jet plane driving uphill at cold engine, then no more jet plane when car is getting hotter
but yeah i am in believe that previous owner ran some radiator sealant thingy and that just messin with my thermostat/ waterpump.
So i pray to rangie jesus if he can speed up my deliveries and fix my rangie.
brianp38dse
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Your fan sounds ok, that is what it should do cold and then get noisier when it is hot and needs cooling.
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Thank you, when are you available to come and change my waterpump, accesory belts, tensioner, pulleys, etc? I’ll ofcourse make you a sandwich
When the plane tickets arrive
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On start up the fan will roar.
After driving a short distance it will go quiet as it warms a little and let's itself slip.
When the engine gets too hot the fan will start to roar again and will go quiet when it has cooled the engine enough.
If it doesn't roar with a really hot engine and the temp gauge near the 1oclock position then the fan could be broken....
After driving a short distance it will go quiet as it warms a little and let's itself slip.
When the engine gets too hot the fan will start to roar again and will go quiet when it has cooled the engine enough.
If it doesn't roar with a really hot engine and the temp gauge near the 1oclock position then the fan could be broken....
