2.5 DSE Intermittent Power Loss

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P38Al

Member
Posts
84
Location
North East Wales
Hi all, my 1999 2.5 DSE isn't responding to the throttle. If I wait a few seconds it will spring into life. I've checked there is fuel coming through the filter (which I replaced a few weeks ago in case it was causing the problem). It's been fine for the last few weeks but coming home this evening I had to hold the throttle pedal on the floor for a few minutes before it revved up. There is also an intermittent mis-fire. This happens every so often then runs fine for a few weeks. The injectors were re-calibrated a few months back and the injector pump is only a couple of years old - a Bosch rebuild. Any ideas please?
 
Next time it happens remove air flow wire if it improves sorted or throttle sensor when your fip pump got rebuilt it would only get seals and retuned the top part of the pump responds to the throttle if it's that there around £300 there known to stick thus late responding
 
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Thanks for the ideas, I need the car for work tomorrow so will see what happens then. I've just been for a run, I was stuck at one junction for 10 mins as the engine wouldn't run above about 500rpm, eventually it revved up and I was able to move. Even when I manage to get the engine up to about 3000 rpm it feels like the fuel is being restricted. Could there be anything in the tank intermittantly blocking the pump gauze filter?
 
Thanks for the ideas, I need the car for work tomorrow so will see what happens then. I've just been for a run, I was stuck at one junction for 10 mins as the engine wouldn't run above about 500rpm, eventually it revved up and I was able to move. Even when I manage to get the engine up to about 3000 rpm it feels like the fuel is being restricted. Could there be anything in the tank intermittantly blocking the pump gauze filter?

Check the multi plug to the pump make sure all connections are clean. If it's running at 500 rpm, that should never happen, it should tick over at 750. Sounds like the ECU is not comunicating with the fuel quantity servo. Get the codes read.
 
Thanks Wammers, I'll take a look in the morning. I'm hoping my local autoelectrician will have time to plug his Testbook in to read any fault codes. I'll keep you posted. The odd thing about this problem is that it's happened before on maybe 5 or 6 occasions in the 5 years I've had the car and each time the problem has gone away without me finding anything wrong.
 
Thanks Wammers, I'll take a look in the morning. I'm hoping my local autoelectrician will have time to plug his Testbook in to read any fault codes. I'll keep you posted. The odd thing about this problem is that it's happened before on maybe 5 or 6 occasions in the 5 years I've had the car and each time the problem has gone away without me finding anything wrong.

Could be bacterial growth in the fuel tank blocking the pump, have you checked the flow rate from the in tank pump?
 
Hi Datatek, I've removed the outlet pipe from the filter housing and fuel is coming through ok, I suppose I need to do that when the engine is mis-firing though. Just back from the garage, Testbook found 2 faults, one is with the EGR that won't reset, the autoelectrician recommended that I blank off the stainless pipe from the exhaust. The second fault was some sort of value deviation in the fuel injection pump, this fault has cleared down ok and car now feels much more responsive. Just been for a long drive with lots of stopping and starting and all seems fine at the moment. Problem is this has 'gone away' several times before only to happen again in the future. Thanks all for help so far.
 
Hi Datatek, I've removed the outlet pipe from the filter housing and fuel is coming through ok, I suppose I need to do that when the engine is mis-firing though. Just back from the garage, Testbook found 2 faults, one is with the EGR that won't reset, the autoelectrician recommended that I blank off the stainless pipe from the exhaust. The second fault was some sort of value deviation in the fuel injection pump, this fault has cleared down ok and car now feels much more responsive. Just been for a long drive with lots of stopping and starting and all seems fine at the moment. Problem is this has 'gone away' several times before only to happen again in the future. Thanks all for help so far.


These EGR modulators are little tinkers aren't they just. Can't think that it had anything to do with your lack of throttle responce though. The other fault was causing that i would think.
 
I'm off for a short drive in a few minutes, I'll see how that goes before I attach the trailer in the morning. I've blanked off the EGR pipe to see if that makes any difference. I'll let you all know the outcome. Thanks again.
 
I've had that fuel injection deviation have you had a fuel pump on it recently if it is miss timed or chain stretch it could cause this

My ran terrible at low revs up 50mph it was fine

Id be looking at fuel pump timing
 
That sort of valve deviation is the unit on top of your pump that controls your rev throttle!! As your auto electrition says
 
Hi Matt, I've just got back after about a 2 hour drive, lots of junctions, roundbouts etc and it hasn't missed a beat, running perfectly. As I said earlier this has happened before so wonder if it's fixed this time or will recur again in a few weeks. Problems like these can be expensive by the time you've lost a days pay and had to fork out for the diagnostics. I'll keep you all posted.
 
Hi Defender300Td1, is the electronic unit on top of the fip replaceable? Just wondering if it's worth getting one and eliminating that as a cause of the problem.
 
Did this problem occur after the fuel pump was replaced I had a similar problem.with fault code of fuel injection deviation it was a brand new pump but it was missed time just enough to give me the code and poor running under light throttle you could drive through it and once moving you could use full throttle

Did you fit the pump or a garage was the slack in the chain adjusted as per rave with the use of the cam tool and feeler guage set at 4.6 mm if I remember right
 
Hi Matt, I fitted the new pump about 4 years ago. I re-set the timing and took up any slack in the timing chain when I replaced the cylinder head gasket about 2 years ago. The problem is intermittent though, so although it seems fine now I expect it may go wrong again ! Thanks again for your advice.
 
Did this problem occur after the fuel pump was replaced I had a similar problem.with fault code of fuel injection deviation it was a brand new pump but it was missed time just enough to give me the code and poor running under light throttle you could drive through it and once moving you could use full throttle

Did you fit the pump or a garage was the slack in the chain adjusted as per rave with the use of the cam tool and feeler guage set at 4.6 mm if I remember right


You keep saying this, the cam positioning tool and 4.61 feeler are only used to replace camshaft sprocket. They are NOT used to time pump. Chain stretch on pump timing it taken care of by different cam lift position on DTI.
 
I understand what you are sayin wammers, but I was explaining how I cured my fuel injection deviation and what symptoms I had. The chains will stretch with age I only adjusted mine due to the input from a diesel engine, fuel pump specialist who has 30yrs experience in this field.
 
Just a quick update gents, all is still fine, pulled a 3 ton trailer full of scaffolding with missing a beat. Since the fault has been reset by the Testbook it seems to have more power (or is that because the EGR pipe has been blanked off?)
 
Just a quick update gents, all is still fine, pulled a 3 ton trailer full of scaffolding with missing a beat. Since the fault has been reset by the Testbook it seems to have more power (or is that because the EGR pipe has been blanked off?)

That's because of EGR pipe. If the EGR modulator was duff it may have been opening on turbo or open all the time which would lead to a serious lack of power.
 
Just started having a very similar problem. Started the car the other day and had no throttle response in either D or R. Restarted the car and all was fine. Sitting in traffic, throttle wouldn't boost off, but raised very, very slowly. Again, a quick restart seemed to cure.

I have contact cleaner and have had several corrosion issues in the car already, I've given a few plugs a spray, which ones exactly relate to what I need to look for?

Thanks all.
 
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