P38A 2.5 diesel- want one but scared!

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I have no EAS so the box you have is missing on mine.
72C37219-BF59-4FAA-9CF4-ABAE46F602E3.jpeg

Is bit different I’m pre EGR.
 
So you found most of what we said and still brought it:rolleyes::rolleyes:

good luck but it will live again it’s not the end of the ole girl yet;)

J
 
Back story if anyone's interested. 62 yr old guy had it for 5 yrs but died of a heart attack 4 yrs ago, just after it was tested. Only daughter inherited it but couldn't drive and lives in South Wales. She keeps failing her driving test since her dad died and has now given up trying and wanted to sell to an enthusiast who would fix it up.
The car has stood the whole 4 yrs just shunted about occasionally.
I was given her phone number after I had viewed by her dad's friend where the car was stored . I was actually walking away from it because it kept randomly conking out whilst I was in the driver's seat, bonnet was up.
It was only after I left that the Doris said it stopped when he disconnected the jump leads and didn't when he left them on. That made me feel a bit more optimistic cos I know that a good battery is critical on these things. So..I'm hoping that a new battery and a good clean and maybe a nanocom will reset some things that aren't working or things that I missed that aren't working will start working again:rolleyes:.
I'll do some phoning around tomorrow for car transporter trailer prices and recovery truck prices and see what's what.
What does a P38 weigh anyway?
I've fetched a VW Sharan with me 110 200tdi with disco transfer box with no issues but a P38 will be a lot lardiero_O
 
Oh, forgot to say.
I phoned the daughter up when I got home to find out what she would take outside of eBay and after some negotiation we agreed a price and it's now gone off eBay after I paid a £100 deposit.
 
brianp38dse said:
The auto boxes do not really give much hassle, dont forget to look at the rear brake pipes if they are rusty thats money off, easy to do though they will not know that, just make sure everything works, as its been sat for four years some things might need a little tlc but its all fixable if the price is right you could well end up with a real nice one it does not look like its be messed about with.
once its started and all the lights have gone out (abs only goes out once the car has driven a few yards and the sensors have sent back info) put your foot on the brakes on and off and count how many times before the pump cut back in should be six if only a couple the sphere is near end of life
There is a good chance some thing may be a bit sticky on the brake front
I am sure you will be all right sorting any niggles out, best luck tomorrow.
Click to expand...
What's the sphere? That tank thing under the driver's side floor area, near the inner sill? Brake pump abs thingy ran then stopped but ran every time the brake pedal was pressed once.
 
Left 4 years starts and rises what more do you want. Good voltage will behave much betterer half my problems went away. Sphere is on here
92D83DF0-8BD2-4CC7-B492-CF2E9B916FBF.jpeg Dip the fluid with a paper towel see what looks like. Ignition 2 - pump pedal, pump must finish building pressure before level is taken.
The tank under the drivers door is EAS tank.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Left 4 years starts and rises what more do you want. Good voltage will behave much betterer half my problems went away. Sphere is on here
View attachment 242526 Dip the fluid with a paper towel see what looks like. Ignition 2 - pump pedal, pump must finish building pressure before level is taken.
The tank under the drivers door is EAS tank.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm a tit. Googled sphere and saw what it was then realized the floor tank was for the EAS:oops:
 
Flossie said:
Right you bunch of w@nkers.
I went, I saw, I didn't know what I was looking at so I purchased it anyway:eek::rolleyes::D.
Good points,
Injun sounded ok, doors all locked off the fobby thing, windows went up and down, sunroof worked and no obvious rot to the roof tray, still on air and it went up when started, radio worked, still has rear parcel shelf and a load liner, body is good, paint pretty good, no weird mods cept reverse camera. Wheels good, front tyres good, nice colour, no tailgate rot.Carpets dry.air bags looked good.
Bad points.
Rear tyres poor, exhaust rusty, mainly centre and rear silencers, usual brake disc rot from standing, side steps rotted, brake pipes rotted, dash IS covered in mouldy green stuff, one doorcard wreaked, seats scruffy but should clean up as will the dash, book symbol on the thingy, abs pump worked on first press of brake, Aircon didn't work , temp gauge possibly doesn't work , battery dead(had to be jumped).
First one I looked at and I brought it.
See! That's what happens when I'm not supervised:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Hey W@nkers,I resemble that remark.:rolleyes::D:D I hope you chipped him on the price.;)
 
Flossie said:
Forgot to mention the price.
£1500 guv'nor.
So much for looking for a minter for up to 5k:rolleyes:..
Prolly cost me 5k to fix the baster:D
Click to expand...

if you spend 4k on it it will be mint.
I don't think you will be near that amount as you can wield a spanner:), and by the time your finished you may even get to "helpful" status in the RR sexsion:eek:. With a very nice motor:D.
You may need another toolbox for all the new tools you may end up buying;)

If you stop working the grey matter you will waste away. You are probably going to test your grey matter now so all good:D:D.

J
 
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