19j air in fuel.

nobber said:

Cool, thanks for the help man, greatly appreciated.

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No worries. Anytime.

So guys, turns out it was a split boost diaphragm , replaced it and bingo, air is all gone.
Except,
I still have white smoke and a random miss fire, Starting from cold it struggles to start, it will catch but at a very low rpm, give it some throttle and it dies, after a couple of tries it eventually starts. White smoke for the first mile or so then clears, misfire at idle until its gets hot.
Ive tried advancing the timing which just produced black smoke on take up, bad injector perhaps?

This is it starting from warm, its worse when its started from cold. It drives fine, plenty of power, goes up hills easily, torque in all gears.

looks like its randomly missing. Could be injectors, but it could a number of other things too.

I'd be testing the injectors because it's easy to do along with testing compression in the cylinders.

windy81 said:

looks like its randomly missing. Could be injectors, but it could a number of other things too.

I'd be testing the injectors because it's easy to do along with testing compression in the cylinders.

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Fuel pressure would cause that, Im not convinced its a valve, Injector pump fault but that wouldn't clear when the engine gets hot, my guess is its a sticking injector.

injectors need checking every 50k or so anyway, may well be overdue, so if they are a bit iffy, then it'll spruce the engine up a fair bit

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One of these would be useful for you

nobber said:

Fuel pressure would cause that, Im not convinced its a valve, Injector pump fault but that wouldn't clear when the engine gets hot, my guess is its a sticking injector.

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Could be a blown nozzle, or several blown nozzles. The injectors are quite easy to test, and the parts to service them are extremely cheap compared to modern ones.

getting better when hot is often due to low compression or poor spray pattern due to poor injector nozzels, if the nozzels are blued then the seats will be worn

DIY video,

Thanks guys, I have the injectors out of the old engine so I could trey them, I also have an old set in the shed but they are years and years old so I dont know what state they are in.

The 19j has two different part numbers for their injectors vin dependant, same injector though, so my guess is two different opening pressures, anyone know? If its different pressures I might not be able to swap them over.

nobber said:

Thanks guys, I have the injectors out of the old engine so I could trey them, I also have an old set in the shed but they are years and years old so I dont know what state they are in.

The 19j has two different part numbers for their injectors vin dependant, same injector though, so my guess is two different opening pressures, anyone know? If its different pressures I might not be able to swap them over.

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Not sure if there is much point in changing them for another set of unknowns, it would be better to recon them first.
And make sure you use the right washers, one copper, one steel, all new, on each injector.
And check that there are not several steel washers down the holes already, and that you fit the steel washers ridge up.

I remember there being two par numbers when I did the ones for mine. Turned out to be a red herring, only one set of parts was available.

Turboman said:

Not sure if there is much point in changing them for another set of unknowns, it would be better to recon them first.
And make sure you use the right washers, one copper, one steel, all new, on each injector.
And check that there are not several steel washers down the holes already, and that you fit the steel washers ridge up.

I remember there being two par numbers when I did the ones for mine. Turned out to be a red herring, only one set of parts was available.

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They arnt unknowns, I know they work Ok, I took the nozzles apart last night on my old set and cleaned them up but I will check the spray pattern as well. I cant set the pressure but if they worked before they will pull me out of a hole temporarily until I get the other set checked, I have two spare sets. I also keep spare washers in my tool box, they are cheap so when I need some I buy enough for a couple of change overs.

My guess is the two different types had either two different opening pressures which would result in a slightly longer spray time and perhaps more or less fuel , or , a different spray pattern. Remember LR were trying to stop pistons getting damaged so changing the injectors would make sense.

So I checked the spray pattern on the replacement injectors and it looked good, put them in and the problem persists, the missing could be due to the replacement injectors being full of air so I cannot say either way, took it for a drive and its smoking still until hot, I will let it cool down now and try again from cold, but my guess is the problem lies elsewhere.
The injectors that came out of it looked Ok, but the tips were blued, the domed washers had been put in upside down and were not crushed flat, even though the injectors were tight into the head, it could be that the seats were recut a little too deeply. If so I could use a thinner copper washer but would never get it right.

nobber said:

So I checked the spray pattern on the replacement injectors and it looked good, put them in and the problem persists, the missing could be due to the replacement injectors being full of air so I cannot say either way, took it for a drive and its smoking still until hot, I will let it cool down now and try again from cold, but my guess is the problem lies elsewhere.
The injectors that came out of it looked Ok, but the tips were blued, the domed washers had been put in upside down and were not crushed flat, even though the injectors were tight into the head, it could be that the seats were recut a little too deeply. If so I could use a thinner copper washer but would never get it right.

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Doubtful that air in the injectors is causing the problem. Usually, if you can get it running, it all bleeds itself pretty quickly.

It must be either the pump or a cylinder then, or both, I will see what it does on a cold start.

Low fuel pressure? When those lift pumps fail I take it the engine will still run? Just with low fuel pressure? That would cause this, low pressure into the injector pump would cause the timing to be off. Im not meeting much resistance on the priming handle but I will take the pump off just to be certain its not resting on the cam.

Low fuel pressure? When those lift pumps fail I take it the engine will still run? Just with low fuel pressure? That would cause this, low pressure into the injector pump would cause the timing to be off. Im not meeting much resistance on the priming handle but I will take the pump off just to be certain its not resting on the cam.

nobber said:

Low fuel pressure? When those lift pumps fail I take it the engine will still run? Just with low fuel pressure? That would cause this, low pressure into the injector pump would cause the timing to be off. Im not meeting much resistance on the priming handle but I will take the pump off just to be certain its not resting on the cam.

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Try taking the pipe from the lift pump to the filter off, sticking the end in a container, and give it a few pumps.

Cranking and quite a bit of fuel comes out, not as much as I expected, hand priming very little comes out, With the engine running at idle and the bleed cracked on the filter it just seeps out, I'm now wondering if its a pressure thing, the pump isnt effective enough at idle and start up.

Ive just been all over it, fuel lines all checked, replaced one that looked dodgy, cleaned the gauze in the regulator in the injector pump, checked the tank, so now I need to explore other options, intake leak (it would need to be pretty bad), lift pump still suspect, injector timing, poor compression.