dougdotcom
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If all fails Pm me. 
1999 p38 immobiliser, eka, key fob and alarm serious problem
- Thread starter fivehands
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mozz smith
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cheers for that gazza ,,,,have you been to tesco's yet ???????????????
hi, i have a 1995 2.5 p38.
here's my problem:
remote never worked since i bought the car. always unlock it manually with key.
one morning i got out, unlocked the car, went off all was good.
came home, parked the car, locked with key, 30 min later went back, unlocked with key SURPRISE. only drivers door unlocked mechanicaly.
i opened the door and it made a short sound (bip-bip). tried to start the engine...nothing...(back then the message center wasn't displaying actual messages. instead of messages it showed codes like HANDBOOK 168, HANDBOOK 147...)...tried out everything.. eka with 4 locks before starting, eka without 4 locks, keyfob batteries....everything i could think of and read on forums.
took the car to a LR dearship, they didn't know what was happening. i ended up buying becm, ecu, ignition barrel, driver lock barrel, clocks, the whole bunch from ebay.
the mechanic swapped the old ones with the new ones, the car started, everything worked just fine. i drove the car from the dealrship to my house, parked it in the EXACT same spot when it stopped working...and guess what? it stopped working again. It's now saying Engine Disabled, Press Remote. of course, pressing the remote doesn't help.
i've tried the new eka that came with becm, doesn't work.
Any suggestions?
here's my problem:
remote never worked since i bought the car. always unlock it manually with key.
one morning i got out, unlocked the car, went off all was good.
came home, parked the car, locked with key, 30 min later went back, unlocked with key SURPRISE. only drivers door unlocked mechanicaly.
i opened the door and it made a short sound (bip-bip). tried to start the engine...nothing...(back then the message center wasn't displaying actual messages. instead of messages it showed codes like HANDBOOK 168, HANDBOOK 147...)...tried out everything.. eka with 4 locks before starting, eka without 4 locks, keyfob batteries....everything i could think of and read on forums.
took the car to a LR dearship, they didn't know what was happening. i ended up buying becm, ecu, ignition barrel, driver lock barrel, clocks, the whole bunch from ebay.
the mechanic swapped the old ones with the new ones, the car started, everything worked just fine. i drove the car from the dealrship to my house, parked it in the EXACT same spot when it stopped working...and guess what? it stopped working again. It's now saying Engine Disabled, Press Remote. of course, pressing the remote doesn't help.
i've tried the new eka that came with becm, doesn't work.
Any suggestions?
NikTheGeek
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When I had that it felt like the worst day of my life. How was I going to get to work etc etc. I was locked out completely, known working EKA code wouldn't take. Car would manually unlock on drivers side only, central locking wasn't activating and car wouldn't unlock by remote so alarm couldn't be disabled and car wouldn't start. etc etc.
I *think* I had a dodgy lock on the tail gate because whilst I was standing there pondering what the hell to do next, my 7 yo daughter pressed the tailgate button and the whole car unlocked. Remote keys then worked, central locking worked and car would start.
So it might be worth trying all your locks. Even if you have to get in the car and manually open each one. You never know....
And to think my mate, a Defender owner, says Range Rovers are dead easy to nick!!!!
Nik
I *think* I had a dodgy lock on the tail gate because whilst I was standing there pondering what the hell to do next, my 7 yo daughter pressed the tailgate button and the whole car unlocked. Remote keys then worked, central locking worked and car would start.
So it might be worth trying all your locks. Even if you have to get in the car and manually open each one. You never know....
And to think my mate, a Defender owner, says Range Rovers are dead easy to nick!!!!
Nik
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Is there any way this could be related to the mysterious RF issue? Anyone know the part number of the mk3 receiver he should have? Or maybe he could try Nick's Faraday cage trick!
Of course, that probably won't start it but might stop it happening again when he does!
Of course, that probably won't start it but might stop it happening again when he does!
Datatek
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They don't like being locked and unlocked on the key, why does the FOB not work? Check the RF receiver, even if you have not been using the FOB, the receiver may still be causing problems.
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@deadnoise: any progress? Any diagnostics? Tried locking then unlocking with the blipper and inserting the key to start PDQ?
StuckAgainSteve
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Your mate is wrong, P38s are very secure - as you've found out it's hard enough to drive 'em away when you're the owner! Of course no car is thief proof and anyone who really knows what they are doing can nick anything, but for the casual thief, P38s are pretty much nick-proof. Sadly the latest "keyless" LR models can be stolen very easily by anyone with the right kit.
Datatek
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hi all. i solved my problem.
i kept trying and trying to get the eka code to work with no use. then, i opened the passager door (RH) to check the fuses in the becm once again. then i decided to give one last try to do what the rangie tells me (press remote) so...i did it and heard the doors unlocking. engine started. drove around for about 40 min parked the car, closed the passanger door manually by pushing the button, locked the car using the key (because the remote does not close or opens the front doors (maybe bad door latches). When tried to open same story all over again. engine disabled press remote and alarm sounding. tried to remember every step that i made when first starting it....did all sorts of thing...nothing...then after 10 min decided to give it another try....as i was standing at the wheel pressing the remote i remembered that the first time i unlocked the passenger door (to look at fuses), so i unlocked it and tried againg...press remote, doors unlocked.
I THINK that because the BeCM i bought of ebay came from a RHD rangie, the car didn't quite understand how am i trying to start it if the RH door didn't open....
today my mechanic told me to take the car to the dearship and change the following settings in the becm: from RHD to LHD (as it actually is) and change the market to NAS. so i did. now the rangie is working properly and marking it's territory.
So basically all i had to do is to pull the button on passenger side to unlock the door, and it took me more than 6 months, 56789 hours of talking to mechanics and electricians to realize this.
i kept trying and trying to get the eka code to work with no use. then, i opened the passager door (RH) to check the fuses in the becm once again. then i decided to give one last try to do what the rangie tells me (press remote) so...i did it and heard the doors unlocking. engine started. drove around for about 40 min parked the car, closed the passanger door manually by pushing the button, locked the car using the key (because the remote does not close or opens the front doors (maybe bad door latches). When tried to open same story all over again. engine disabled press remote and alarm sounding. tried to remember every step that i made when first starting it....did all sorts of thing...nothing...then after 10 min decided to give it another try....as i was standing at the wheel pressing the remote i remembered that the first time i unlocked the passenger door (to look at fuses), so i unlocked it and tried againg...press remote, doors unlocked.
I THINK that because the BeCM i bought of ebay came from a RHD rangie, the car didn't quite understand how am i trying to start it if the RH door didn't open....
today my mechanic told me to take the car to the dearship and change the following settings in the becm: from RHD to LHD (as it actually is) and change the market to NAS. so i did. now the rangie is working properly and marking it's territory.
So basically all i had to do is to pull the button on passenger side to unlock the door, and it took me more than 6 months, 56789 hours of talking to mechanics and electricians to realize this.
hi john i have already put a post on there earlier today but am in process of writing the script so will post that and everyone can print it off to keep ,,its just a bit long winded to type out but am halfway thru it so should be posted by wensday as im a pensioner and fingers full of arthritus its not easy ..in the meantime they can ring me and it only takes 10 mins if they listen and do it properly ,,,watch out for the post on " how to" as you suggest ,,cheeers and kind regards mozz
Hello Mozz I have the same problem so I have been looking at the how to section but I cant seem to find your notes. Could you point me in the right direction please?
Many thanks
PJ
P38BORDEAUX
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Having a very similar problem.
Engine has been out for 5 months and battery disconnected. All gone back in but immobiliser a problem.
I have the EKA code and gone through the process of key turns as per the manual engine disabled displays, aware that there is a lockout period so left overnight to reset, tried again next day same thing.
So unusual things that are happening:
Keyfob red light works - batteries checked
central locking does not work
alarm red light flashing as it should in the car when locked
After entering the code and putting the key in the ignition i get warnings on the dash saying that all 4 windows NOT SET and then displays engine disabled.
I have seen another post in this thread about possible problems with micro switches on doors, i know the boot lock is tempremental and did not always open the boot, could this be causing an issue.
OR is there something else going on, does the computer need resetting? I spoke to landrover and they think possibly the immobiliser has forgottent the code and needs resetting?
What do people think and any ideas on how to solve this?
Thanks
Datatek
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You would be better to start a new thread. I suggest you check the connectors behind the kick panel in the drivers footwell for corrosion.
Windows not set is normal after a battery disconnect, your owners manual will tell you how to set them.
If your battery voltage is low it will also cause you problems as will a wet drivers foot well.
Here's the thing: all my door actuators were replaced for cheap aftermarket ones. I pulled out some fuses when trying to identify a current drain. When i finished the led in the dash was blinking. Remote didn't work anymore, no way to sync it to the becm, no way to enter eka as the door handle is broken. Tried everything for about 1 hour. Removed the door card on driver's seat and looked at the wires. I've cut some of them when i installed the aftermarket central locking because i didn't need them. I've tried fiddling with the wires in order to enter EKA "by wire". Evidently, didn't work. Then i thought...well, why not? And took the three hanging wires, connected together and put them on a ground (a bolt in the door) and, by magic, the led stopped blinking and the car started, remote works. Don't really know what happend there. But as a measure of last resort, i guess you can try it.
Orange with pink stripe, green with red stripe, and blue with red stripe.
P.S. I think i was holding or pushing remote buttons as i connected the three wires to the ground.
Orange with pink stripe, green with red stripe, and blue with red stripe.
P.S. I think i was holding or pushing remote buttons as i connected the three wires to the ground.
Last edited:
Datatek
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How fecking stupid is that? So you were lucky and didn't fry the outstation or BECM, but if you had you would have been in deep ****.
NOT something to recomend to others, nor is it a good idea to butcher the locks.
NOT something to recomend to others, nor is it a good idea to butcher the locks.
happend again. same story..sort of...locked the car with the remote..armed. when i tried to open it ...guess what? the remote didn't work. so...door card off, 3 wires to ground..and it opened and de-armed. one of the wires is from the micro-switch that recognizes the key.
hi mozz I'm a newbie and I have a similar problem - I bought a 1999 2.5 bmw diesel from a garage and only found out when I got home the key fob only worked sometimes and you had to use a different key to push the buttons on the fob as there was no rubber buttons to push? however I contacted rr to get the EKA number and they eventually gave me it, I also bought a new fob from ebay!!! yes I know cheap- but I did change the fob and fitted new batteries at same time , on trying the fob the first time the central locking worked on the passenger and both rear doors but not the drivers door so I tried to unlock drivers door with the key only to find out that the drivers door lock wasn't working so I eventually found a second hand drivers door lock and it had the key to operate it so that meant using my original fob to unlock/disarm alarm and then opening my door with stand in key, everything went ok with some mishaps now and again for about a week, got fed up and worried that the different door lock wouldn't let me use EKA if needed so phoned RR and ordered the drivers door lock for the motor -- three weeks waiting,!!!, went out to the car today and tried using the fob but wouldn't unlock any door so opened my door with the second key and alarm started sounding - got in and put key in ign tried to start car but "ENGINE DISABLED" warning "PUSH KEY FOB BUTTON" I have tried this umpteen times with nothing happening except the alarm sounding have bought new sony batteries for fob but no difference, am at stages of going to phone RR and ordering up new key/fob for the motor , do you have any ideas/?? as I don't fancy doin without the car for three weeks more? any suggestions will be most appreciated as everyone on this forum speaks about you as a GOD, and I don't think you can get any better praise than that many reccomendations thank you in advance - George ps my mobile is 07867967425 or if you email me your I'll certainly call you,
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