Thats what i was fearing. i assume the cable goes into the drum then rather than actuating a lever on the back of the drum. not really a job i want to attempt on my own. cheers
This one ^^ I don't know when they swapped over to the later style with the cable going into the drum, I know that is what is fitted to TD5's. But earlier ones is all external activating a lever which are much easier to change. they are very obviously different so a quick picture of the back of the drum posted up here and we will be able to tell you which style you have.
I also would not be too worried about attempting this yourself even if you are not that comfortable with tools and working on the vehicle yourself on the scale of jobs this is a fairly easy beginners job to tackle.
, jack one of the rear wheels just off the ground so it can spin freely. This allows the prop to be spun around by spinning the wheel to allow access to the bolts you need to remove. Using an open ended 9/16 spanned remove the four nuts pictured below.Thanks for the info, i probably will give it a go myself on the drive. many thanks for taking the time to write it all out.This one ^^ I don't know when they swapped over to the later style with the cable going into the drum, I know that is what is fitted to TD5's. But earlier ones is all external activating a lever which are much easier to change. they are very obviously different so a quick picture of the back of the drum posted up here and we will be able to tell you which style you have.
I also would not be too worried about attempting this yourself even if you are not that comfortable with tools and working on the vehicle yourself on the scale of jobs this is a fairly easy beginners job to tackle.
To remove the rear prop, the chock the front wheels, release the handbrake
View attachment 300099
once these four nuts are removed the propshaft can be compressed and slid off the studs and either put to the side or tied up to the chassis. If you are feeling very adventurous you can remove it from the axle end using two spanners and the same method and removed it out of the way completely. This will reveal a small cross head retaining screw that you undo allowing the handbrake drum to be removed. Once you are at this stage you can follow the steps here: LINK which details how to replace the cable on a handbrake system where the cable does into the drum. Although this write up removes the handbrake lever I would not bother and although it is a little fiddly you can feed it through from the underside of the vehicle.
and i forgot to mention i did look at the back of the drum and its like the TD5's , the cable goes into the back of the drum rather than having a lever.This one ^^ I don't know when they swapped over to the later style with the cable going into the drum, I know that is what is fitted to TD5's. But earlier ones is all external activating a lever which are much easier to change. they are very obviously different so a quick picture of the back of the drum posted up here and we will be able to tell you which style you have.
I also would not be too worried about attempting this yourself even if you are not that comfortable with tools and working on the vehicle yourself on the scale of jobs this is a fairly easy beginners job to tackle.
To remove the rear prop, the chock the front wheels, release the handbrake
View attachment 300099
once these four nuts are removed the propshaft can be compressed and slid off the studs and either put to the side or tied up to the chassis. If you are feeling very adventurous you can remove it from the axle end using two spanners and the same method and removed it out of the way completely. This will reveal a small cross head retaining screw that you undo allowing the handbrake drum to be removed. Once you are at this stage you can follow the steps here: LINK which details how to replace the cable on a handbrake system where the cable does into the drum. Although this write up removes the handbrake lever I would not bother and although it is a little fiddly you can feed it through from the underside of the vehicle.
They are indeed 9/16 for the prop shaft. You will also need new nyloc nuts for refitting (very poor practice and not recommended to re-use them on such a critical component). You can get special propshaft tools (LINK) some people swear by them, I have one now but spent the first 5 years of my land rover journey using spanners. They are ok, but there are still times where you cannot access the nut using one and resort back to spanners.
cheers, i'll have a root through my grandads old tools i have, he was a mechanic and i think there might be some imperial stuff in there, probably sockets though rather than spanners.
are these the right nuts? https://www.paddockspares.com/nz606041l-propshaft-nut.html
what do you mean? the diff end?Whatever route you go do not pull the end out of the prop
J
ah i see, don't worry i wasn't intending to, i think we'll just move it out of the way
Sorry I should of explained better.
no problem, cheers for the clarification
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