X Eng X-Brake

Nothing to see here, just attaching X Eng X-Brake fitting instructions for posterity as Foundry was the only place seeming to host this .pdf.

Something to note: If it's anything like mine, then the pictures in these instructions don't look like what's in the box. I assume they've gone through some design iterrations. I actually bought mine several years ago (2017), but only just got round to fitting recently....it's been "one of those jobs..."

My learnings:

1. DO silicone the moving pad as the instructions set out, there's a tendancy for the free running pad to rattle....just do it.
2. The pre-set tension on the lever is right. Yes it's a pig to fit to the even the lower-most hole, but do it, the cable will stretch and after a couple weeks move up to hole number 2. It'll be easier to fit to hole 2 next time.
3. DO follow the instructions in terms of 'centring the caliper'. Keep the big bolts loose, fit the prop back on with the disk brake in place, jiggle the caliper, then go pull the handbrake up 4/5/6 clicks. The slack in the caliper will feel like it's all but disappeared, tighten everything up, release the handbrake and the caliper will be centered - this means no swishing noise as you're driving.

Alm.

NB: Permalink to direct download (personally hosted)

Mine needed an adjustment this week. 3 clicks as normal and parked on the hill. 10 mins later it rolled back 5 foot into the Hilux behind me….centre double locking nuts had vibrated loose green laning. May change this to a single nylock instead

Hicap phill said:

Mine needed an adjustment this week. 3 clicks as normal and parked on the hill. 10 mins later it rolled back 5 foot into the Hilux behind me….centre double locking nuts had vibrated loose green laning. May change this to a single nylock instead

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Leaving the car in gear when parking, will be a hard habit to break.

Sorry to hear about your truck, who came off worse? My money is on the slightly softer-nosed Hilux.

Thanks so much for this, mine is still in a box after 8 years !.

I am still struggling with mine! To get it to hold when at 6 clicks the cable is still under tension when calliper is fully released (have new brake pads fitted). This results in the cable stretching regularly and needing readjusting until you reach the end of the adjustment and need a new cable.

Almonds said:

Leaving the car in gear when parking, will be a hard habit to break.

Sorry to hear about your truck, who came off worse? My money is on the slightly softer-nosed Hilux.

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Broke the headlight washer.. rest of it was fine due to lack of speed involved,but if someone was walking between the motors it could have been worse.

dag019 said:

I am still struggling with mine! To get it to hold when at 6 clicks the cable is still under tension when calliper is fully released (have new brake pads fitted). This results in the cable stretching regularly and needing readjusting until you reach the end of the adjustment and need a new cable.

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The instructions do state that there is a coarse adjustment of the caliper lever position, but requires undoing the central screw 5mm and then pulling the lever off the spline, rotating, then depressing.

You've probably already tried this, but this may save you buying a new cable, at least for a while longer ...

Almonds said:

The instructions do state that there is a coarse adjustment of the caliper lever position, but requires undoing the central screw 5mm and then pulling the lever off the spline, rotating, then depressing.

You've probably already tried this, but this may save you buying a new cable, at least for a while longer ...

Click to expand...

The issue is there is to much movement in the caliper rather than the the lever being in the wrong place. For example (numbers made up for demonstration) I need the lever to move 45 degrees to clamp but the 6 click on the handbrake only gives you 30 degrees of lever movement, so the first 15 degrees are taken up by cable adjustment and the cable is then held under tension.

I need to look at the possibility of adding a shim behind one of the brake pad so less lever movement is required to clamp. But that was why I made the comment about having new pads.

dag019 said:

The issue is there is to much movement in the caliper rather than the the lever being in the wrong place. For example (numbers made up for demonstration) I need the lever to move 45 degrees to clamp but the 6 click on the handbrake only gives you 30 degrees of lever movement, so the first 15 degrees are taken up by cable adjustment and the cable is then held under tension.

I need to look at the possibility of adding a shim behind one of the brake pad so less lever movement is required to clamp. But that was why I made the comment about having new pads.

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Ahhh, I understand now, and see the problem. Agree, shims would be the way to go.
If it helps, I *think* the pads are JCB p/n 478/00849; I don't know of any off-the-shelf shims though. If you get some made up, let me know as I'll expect the same issues at some point down the line.



Rob

Almonds said:

Ahhh, I understand now, and see the problem. Agree, shims would be the way to go.
If it helps, I *think* the pads are JCB p/n 478/00849; I don't know of any off-the-shelf shims though. If you get some made up, let me know as I'll expect the same issues at some point down the line.
View attachment 340695


Rob

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They are indeed JCB brake pads so are nice and easy to get replacements for. I was probably going to go with a diy trial and error approach by just cutting around with brake pad out of some some stainless i have and adding additional ones until I get to a thickness that works.