1997 p38

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Check your 'injection value current' with Nanocom . I had a similar issue & the value was fluctuating from 0 to 3 , IIRC.
After adjustment it was okay. For the adjustment you need a hammer;)
Wammers or N2O will comment on specifics.
 
Hello guys just to let you know still working away replaced wiring loom today an still the problem exists next I guess is fuel pump and then I honestly don't know

As Sherlock Holmes said: "Pass the whiskey, Watson. And you don't get me some more opiates soon I'm going to cut your balls off." Something like that anyway.
 
Is it possible for the immobaliser to kick in and cut the car out while its driving ?
Should not do with key in ignition. Get someone with a Nanocom to disable immobiliser if you think it is that. Or better still get someone with a Nanocom to read the faults, if it keeps cutting out there has to be fault codes. Does it cut when driving or only when you are slowing down to make a slow turn or for lights Etc?
 
Doesn't matter it just cuts out when ever it wants steady spread slowing stopped even just turn engine off to get diesel it might not wanna start again
 
Should not do with key in ignition. Get someone with a Nanocom to disable immobiliser if you think it is that. Or better still get someone with a Nanocom to read the faults, if it keeps cutting out there has to be fault codes. Does it cut when driving or only when you are slowing down to make a slow turn or for lights Etc?

Doesn't matter it just cuts out when ever it wants steady spread slowing stopped even just turn engine off to get diesel it might not wanna start again

May be demons:( in the ignition switch/relay.
 
I doubt it's ignition switch to BECM or anything like that. If the ignition switched power was dropping out, then there would be a lot more not working than just the engine cutting out.

HEVAC, Blower motors etc for a start would all shut off - which there's no mention of that happening - just the engine cutting out.
 
Well guys almost got a whole new car here lol replaced all the relays key fob repaired and now a new in tank fuel pump and .....drum role............still no joy
 
I think you need diag. Is there no-one near you with a Nanocom? Checked LZIR map?

If Wammers thinks quantity servo then you'd better check it and for that you need diag.
 
Your gonna need confirmation before you go digging in that hole buddy...
If your going to keep this bus and at the rate your savings are going into it I would think about nano diagnostics.
That'll be your best investment to date and then you can stop searching and start looking.;)




In the right places. Live data is a god send when you learn to read it:cool:
 
Could that green temp sensor be cutting it out at all as I might chuck that at it it it's possible it could be playing around
 
After a hawkeye a snapon and a faultmate diagnostic hasn't picked up **** I don't think I will be thanks for your input
 
After a hawkeye a snapon and a faultmate diagnostic hasn't picked up **** I don't think I will be thanks for your input
Ah I see. I have obviously missed it or you haven't mentioned that previously. Otherwise I am sure those who have suggested you use diagnostics, right up to post #92, would not have felt the need to. Nor would I have asked if you were going to try them.
Sometimes , it helps to tell the full story.

Edit: meant to say after #1 where you say 'diagnostic machines" I have obviously missed ......


Double addit : My bad , you did mention it somewhere 3 pages ago. I obviously missed it. Which makes me curious as to why people are still saying for you to use diagnostics. Although maybe the nanocom can read more than the others you mention.
 
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It's not all about finding a code!!
Live data from a dedicated diagnostic will reveal what is happening at any one point, it can used to record the engines behaviour while your driving also. By reading the graphs and info you can determine where to start;)
 
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