1993 Defender 90

dag019 · May 22, 2018

Peat76 said:
Ah right so for normal driving the little stick should always be in the high position (or just not in low)?

Yes, for normal driving it should be in the High position. Think of it like a second separate gear box, with two gears and neutral. It is a similar principal to a bicycle. The normal gear box would be the gears on the rear wheel and the transfer box would be the gears on the pedals.
Day to day driving will all be done in High range, off road driving will all be done in low range, and occasionally if you are very heavily loaded of pulling a large trailer you will need to pull away in low range, and then change to high range once moving this requires a bit of practice to master).

This is the same gear-stick which engages diff lock by moving it to the left (in any position L/N/H)

Peat76 · May 22, 2018

dag019 said:
Yes, for normal driving it should be in the High position. Think of it like a second separate gear box, with two gears and neutral. It is a similar principal to a bicycle. The normal gear box would be the gears on the rear wheel and the transfer box would be the gears on the pedals.
Day to day driving will all be done in High range, off road driving will all be done in low range, and occasionally if you are very heavily loaded of pulling a large trailer you will need to pull away in low range, and then change to high range once moving this requires a bit of practice to master).

This is the same gear-stick which engages diff lock by moving it to the left (in any position L/N/H)

Thanks should the diff light be on when in high as well as low ?

Peat76 · May 22, 2018

Does anyone know how to get that silverish screw out ? I think.the back of the door handle is stopping me from putting the new latch in. I finally got they screw to turn but it is just turning and not coming out at all.

Edit: did it ! Well I got the latch in finally. And it hasn't fixed the door issue haha flipping heck.

Al2O3 · May 22, 2018

Peat76 said:
if there was decent light and the subject was pretty still , it could get some quality Images.

Yeah, you need good light levels. Handy for reptiles, cos they come out in the sun

Peat76 said:
Thanks should the diff light be on when in high as well as low ?

The small, high/low range gear lever is used to select difflock when you push it over to the left. As dag019 said, if it's H you can push it across to the left and select difflock in High range. Similarly, if you are in Low range you can push it across to the left and get difflock Low range.
ONLY when you push that lever across to the left, to select difflock, should the difflock light come on.

tottot · May 22, 2018

And it will only come on when it wants to as you are moving much of the time.

Al2O3 · May 22, 2018

tottot said:
And it will only come on when it wants to as you are moving much of the time.

Aye, they're not the most reliable

tottot · May 23, 2018

It is just the way of the system,the splines of the shaft and locking collar have line up before they engauge.

Peat76 · May 23, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Yeah, you need good light levels. Handy for reptiles, cos they come out in the sun

The small, high/low range gear lever is used to select difflock when you push it over to the left. As dag019 said, if it's H you can push it across to the left and select difflock in High range. Similarly, if you are in Low range you can push it across to the left and get difflock Low range.
ONLY when you push that lever across to the left, to select difflock, should the difflock light come on.

Ah.. that makes sense with the little picture on the top of the stick but not with any movement I can do with the little stick

So is this what I should be able to do ?

H-------
..........|
..........|
.........N ?
..........|
..........|
L-------

As push up and left for High and down and left for low ?
At the moment my little gearstick seems to just
Wobble left to right like a more limited version of a gearstick in neutral

tottot · May 23, 2018

Forward with clutch for low gears,back with clutch for high gears,neutral in center.Move to the left for diff lock in low or high.This movement has little feel to it as you are only compressing a spring that puts the lock in when it wants to.If diff lock has not been used for some time it can be reluctant to go in.

Peat76 · May 23, 2018

I finally fixed a few issues!
Replaced door latch and door barrel and can now close the driver door properly and can lock that door as well.
So for first time in a few weeks my landy is relatively secure!

Haven't refitted the door card as the previous owner snapped all the fastners so I need to try that repair that's on youtube but I'm hopeful my ujs will be here tomorow so propshaft will be number 1 priority

frog hopper · May 23, 2018

Glad to see your making progress at last. Just worth saying do NOT attempt to engage the diff-lock on tarmac if both props are fitted, you run the risk of damaging the transmission, just try it out on grass or gravel, and back to normal going back onto the road.

dag019 · May 24, 2018

Peat76 said:
I finally fixed a few issues!
Replaced door latch and door barrel and can now close the driver door properly and can lock that door as well.
So for first time in a few weeks my landy is relatively secure!

Haven't refitted the door card as the previous owner snapped all the fastners so I need to try that repair that's on youtube but I'm hopeful my ujs will be here tomorow so propshaft will be number 1 priority

Good news on the door locks.

The door card clips are readily available and cheap to replace, or is it the mounting point on the door card which has been broken?

Peat76 · May 25, 2018

Mounting points on the door aren't there. On some it's just a hole. I watched the video where he drills a little hole in the plastic then puts a screw in so can try that on some bits . Not sure what to do with the holes.

On more positive news my new ujs arrived so I set about cleaning all the mud off my old propshaft and managed to get all the rusty circlips out last night. Took me 2 hours ! (Maybe a circlip tool would have sped things up)
So tonight I'll attempt to push the old ujs out. If I can manage that then I think it should be relatively plain sailing to get it all rebuilt and back on the landy .. fingers crossed.

tottot · May 25, 2018

There are some good vids on you tube about replacing UJ's. Tip,fill the caps with grease to prevent rollers moving as you get them in place,the extra grease will escape from the nipple hole.

Peat76 · May 25, 2018

Any tips on how to get stuck ujs out ? Nearly broke my hand trying to turn my g clamp handle. I haven't got a desk vice that opens far enough . :/

neilly · May 25, 2018

Something is wrong there if you are having that much trouble moving them.

Are you sure you have removed all the circlips? I take it you have watched the Youtube clips?

Cheers

Peat76 · May 25, 2018

Yep all clips out. Watched quite a few videos on removing ujs now. This joint I'm trying to remove looks a bit rusty and is wobbling all over the place so is the bust one .

Is my best bet to buy a bench vice tomorow and a length of pipe as a breaker bar for the handle ?

If do what type of pipe ?

Al2O3 · May 25, 2018

Peat76 said:
Any tips on how to get stuck ujs out ? Nearly broke my hand trying to turn my g clamp handle. I haven't got a desk vice that opens far enough . :/

Circlip pliers are not that expensive. I'd recommend buying a set.

Peat76 · May 25, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Circlip pliers are not that expensive. I'd recommend buying a set.

Yeah. Bought a pair today when I was buying a g clamp . If I can get as far as installing the new ujs they will make that clip bit easier !

neilly · May 25, 2018

If it is all rusted / gunked / siezed up, try plus gas or leave the prop end soaking in a bowl of diesel overnight.

Cheers

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