1993 Defender 90

owas · May 12, 2018

dont think its been mentioned yet, but have you checked it over for rust?

Peat76 · May 12, 2018

It's got lots of rust. Whether that rust is bad or just on the surface on important things I dunno at the moment.
I'm gona get a few pics under it this morning.

Foxyred · May 12, 2018

lynall said:
Sounds like head gasket has blown at the rear?

spot on !
can you post a picture of the engine as it should be a 200 even though the guy says its a 300 my 94 is a 200

Peat76 · May 12, 2018

It takes someone to pull the bonnet up as someone else is pulling the lever. Do I tighten up the cable to fix that?

Peat76 · May 12, 2018

if it sounds like head gasket has gone, does that mean I dont need to replace the injector washers or is that also blowing as well?

jamesmartin · May 12, 2018

Peat76 said:
It takes someone to pull the bonnet up as someone else is pulling the lever. Do I tighten up the cable to fix that?

View attachment 148815

maybe and centralise the latch theres 2 x10mm bolts under the slam panel hold it secure it can be moved if bolts are slckened

lynall · May 12, 2018

Peat76 said:
It takes someone to pull the bonnet up as someone else is pulling the lever. Do I tighten up the cable to fix that?

View attachment 148815

Thats defo a 300tdi, as you can hear the blowing noise you should be able to feel it with your hand.

tottot · May 12, 2018

Some lube may well help the bonnet catch.

Peat76 · May 12, 2018

Looks like there is some copper grease in where the bonnet bit goes into the hole. (i've got these technical terms sorted already..... )
Ill have a look at the latch thingy and feel where its blowing. ta.

Ive been underneath and found that the rear joint on the front prop shaft is loose. The other 3 joints are solid from what I can tell.
See this video.

Im assuming that definitely needs replacing but my question is, am i able to drive it a few miles to a garage with it like that?
(or is that joint replacement doable myself?)

Also here's some other photos underneath. I think the track rods aren't bent. Well the metal rods that go between the wheels looked ok to me.
One of the spares that came with the landy is an exhaust rubber mount thing. But I had a good wiggle of the exhaust and it felt solid as a rock. :-\

Is this lower bar a track rod?

What are those rods at the edge running to the back axle?

tottot · May 12, 2018

Yep, that UJ is well gone.You could remove the shaft and drive in diff lock on rear axle only.Bolts look well cruddy though.

tottot · May 12, 2018

I think that most here would agree that a Defender 200/300 is a great vehicle to learn self maintenance on. By today's standard it is a simple machine and much can be sorted with basic tools that are not costly.Over a life time one can save a fortune in garage costs. Plus today this forum is here to help.

Peat76 · May 12, 2018

tottot said:
Yep, that UJ is well gone.You could remove the shaft and drive in diff lock on rear axle only.Bolts look well cruddy though.

Thanks. Im learning alot from here!
Ive just been watching videos on how to do it. It doesnt look massively hard but im guessing the hardest bit will be removing the prop shaft.
Ive just priced up the bits I need and tools and thought would I be better just buying a new Propshaft? They are like 60 quid. (plus bolts/nuts)
Do they come with the UJs and the mounts? On the pictures on the shop websites it looks like they do.
If so I think ill go down that route then I know both sides will be sorted for a while.

tottot · May 12, 2018

Prop's come complete.There is a handy propshaft removal tool to be had,look on the Flebay. Given the age of yours it may be the center splines are worn anyway.Cheers.

lynall · May 12, 2018

I would look at the prop like this, as the uj is dead theres a good chance the other one might not be far behind and the slider will almost certainly be worn, so for 60 quid why mess around?

lynall · May 12, 2018

Peat76 said:
Looks like there is some copper grease in where the bonnet bit goes into the hole. (i've got these technical terms sorted already..... )
Ill have a look at the latch thingy and feel where its blowing. ta.

Ive been underneath and found that the rear joint on the front prop shaft is loose. The other 3 joints are solid from what I can tell.
See this video.

Im assuming that definitely needs replacing but my question is, am i able to drive it a few miles to a garage with it like that?
(or is that joint replacement doable myself?)

Also here's some other photos underneath. I think the track rods aren't bent. Well the metal rods that go between the wheels looked ok to me.
One of the spares that came with the landy is an exhaust rubber mount thing. But I had a good wiggle of the exhaust and it felt solid as a rock. :-\

Is this lower bar a track rod?
View attachment 148825

What are those rods at the edge running to the back axle?
View attachment 148826

The front bar is called a drag link, the one that goes from wheel to wheel is a track rod, I note you have a new pas box drop arm which is good news as the ball joint is bit of a toss to change.
The rear arms from the chassis to the axle are torsion arms, the front ones are the same but known in land rover speak as hockey sticks.

Al2O3 · May 12, 2018

Peat76 said:
Looks like there is some copper grease in where the bonnet bit goes into the hole. (i've got these technical terms sorted already..... )
Ill have a look at the latch thingy and feel where its blowing. ta.

Ive been underneath and found that the rear joint on the front prop shaft is loose. The other 3 joints are solid from what I can tell.
As has been said, that it well goosed. If your garage aint far away, drive slowly and you should be ok.
See this video.

Im assuming that definitely needs replacing but my question is, am i able to drive it a few miles to a garage with it like that?
(or is that joint replacement doable myself?)
We've no idea how handy you are, but it isn't too hard to do. Check out the Land Rover Tool Box Videos on Youtube.

Also here's some other photos underneath. I think the track rods aren't bent. Well the metal rods that go between the wheels looked ok to me.
One of the spares that came with the landy is an exhaust rubber mount thing. But I had a good wiggle of the exhaust and it felt solid as a rock. :-\

Is this lower bar a track rod?
Effectively, yes it is. That is the tubular bar that goes from the steering box drop arm to the near side wheel. There is another tubular tracking bar that goes from the back of the nearside wheel to the offside wheel. The drop arm from the steering box should be pointing straight ahead when your wheels are straight ahead. In the meantime, to make yourself feel better, get your wheels facing forward. Pop out the centre oval from your steering wheel. Undo the big nut. there should be a serrated washer under it. Knock the steering wheel off with the palm of your hand. Put it back on the splines straight and tighten the nut, with washer, back up. This is NOT fixing the tracking, but will align your chakras in the meantime.
View attachment 148825

What are those rods at the edge running to the back axle?
They're called trailing arms. They connect the rear axle to the chassis. There are two other arms that connect to the top centre of the axle, through a universal joint, which also go up to the chassis. This arrangement allows the axle to articulate extremely well over rough terrain. On the front axle the equivalent are called radius arms.
View attachment 148826

I've made a few notes in bold. You'll have to 'click to expand'

Peat76 · May 13, 2018

Thanks !

Right so I need to order a prop shaft but looking on paddocks and places like that why are some propshafts like 300 quid ? Are they carbon graphite or something ? :/

Edit: worked it out. They are for different Land Rovers or those fancy wide angle jobbies.

So I've narrowed it down to these 2. Is there any diff or should I just get thr cheaper one ?
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8386-front-propshaft.html
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8390-front-propshaft.html

Also can anyone recommend a torque wrench that does the job but doesn't break the bank. The injector job is 25nm and the prop shaft is 33nm I think the video said.

Watching a video on the head gasket job , looks like that's slightly out of my ability at the moment I reckon so that will have to go in with the full service. How much roughly am I looking at for a full service and head gasket replace ?

lynall · May 14, 2018

Peat76 said:
Thanks !

Right so I need to order a prop shaft but looking on paddocks and places like that why are some propshafts like 300 quid ? Are they carbon graphite or something ? :/

Edit: worked it out. They are for different Land Rovers or those fancy wide angle jobbies.

So I've narrowed it down to these 2. Is there any diff or should I just get thr cheaper one ?
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8386-front-propshaft.html
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8390-front-propshaft.html

Also can anyone recommend a torque wrench that does the job but doesn't break the bank. The injector job is 25nm and the prop shaft is 33nm I think the video said.

Watching a video on the head gasket job , looks like that's slightly out of my ability at the moment I reckon so that will have to go in with the full service. How much roughly am I looking at for a full service and head gasket replace ?

Different part nos for both them props, second one says its for a defender

Tbh the only thing I use a torque wrench for on the land rovers is the head bolts, the rest is just common sense, 25 and 33nm isnt a lot at all and not many of the 1/2 inch wrench will go down to that figure.
But if you do get one a cheap teng/halfords will be more than adequate.

Peat76 · May 14, 2018

Ta. Ordered that second one yesterday. My vin number is just below its top end of the range. And ordered a tacklife 3/8 wrench so hopefully that does that job.

Whilst underneath yesterday I got a good look at the frame and it's pretty rusty. Not to a point where there is holes through it or anything so is do I just sand / wire brush it down and paint hammerite paint on rust on it?

I've read people having the frame removed and blasted and stuff but I can't afford anything like that currently so I'll just have to do what I can afford to get as much life that's left out of the landy as I can.

tottot · May 14, 2018

Do not bother with hammerite,the stuff today is rubbish,remove as much loose rust and crud as you can and use Dinitrol [or similar ] to cover chassis.It is important to spray the inside of chassis rails [ plenty of openings to aim a gun through ] to slow any rust in there.It is often the case that the worst rust starts from within.
A portable compressor to do these jobs will not cost a lot if you do not have access to one

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