norseman
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Preferably when the engine is not running
Sorry, in this 'elf 'n safety world I couldn't resist it !
1987 RRC 3.5L efi starting/hunting/hot stall problems
- Thread starter shocker
- Start date
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Preferably when the engine is not running
Sorry, in this 'elf 'n safety world I couldn't resist it !
Western Slope Rover
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Reading this thread affirms my love and respect for LZ. What a bunch of nerds.
shocker
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NERDS? Sir, I may be an idiot, but a nerd?
shocker
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Discool, the parts page has been a big help, thanks mate. The new temp sensor is in but since it had no effect either thats not the problem or I broke it (likely) when I fitted it.
ECU maybe....
The timing marks- I found the slot on the damper pulley and applied paint but the pressed metal quadrant has been wirebrushed to little effect. There is a possible zero visible at about 12 oclock and at the right hand end the metal is bent 90deg to form a (maybe) pointer
ECU maybe....
The timing marks- I found the slot on the damper pulley and applied paint but the pressed metal quadrant has been wirebrushed to little effect. There is a possible zero visible at about 12 oclock and at the right hand end the metal is bent 90deg to form a (maybe) pointer
V8 timing marks are as I posted.
The bit bent at 90 deg on what I believe you are referring to as 'the pressed metal quadrant' is the pointer that lines up with the marks as shown & doesn't have any degree marks on it that need to be lined up with a slot on any part of the pulley assembly.
Item 15 in this link. http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5981/74763
It isn't "the usual old BL set up" which had a fixed scale of timing marks which you lined up with a slot in the edge of a pulley.
The bit bent at 90 deg on what I believe you are referring to as 'the pressed metal quadrant' is the pointer that lines up with the marks as shown & doesn't have any degree marks on it that need to be lined up with a slot on any part of the pulley assembly.
Item 15 in this link. http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5981/74763
It isn't "the usual old BL set up" which had a fixed scale of timing marks which you lined up with a slot in the edge of a pulley.
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shocker
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Thank you. I believe what you are telling me, it is just that I am at fault in not finding the marks yet. I am far from expert on petrol engines. Plus this vehicle has had many owners and much questionable alteration work done, so I am not all that confident in finding things as they are supposed to be
shocker
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I can get the engine to start but as soon as the throttle is touched the engine dies. I have fitted a new fuel pump, fuel filter, coil and may other things to no avail. The coolant temp sensor turns but does not unscrew so that a work in progress. I have no means of measuring the fuel pressure
Presuming you've sorted the timing issue out & it's as it should be so we can discount that as an issue?
From the link I posted earlier:
Range Rover 3.5 Litre (non cat) diagnostic checklist symptom 5
ENGINE STARTS AND IDLES OK BUT SOMETIMES DIES THE MOMENT THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED. Restarting can be accompanied by clouds of black smoke.
5a. Check for wiring loom damage at throttle body linkage. There are rare reports of wiring damage caused by throttle cam chafing loom which intermittently earths injectors-to-ECU wiring causing continuous operation of injectors.
5b. If above checks out OK then ECU faulty.
From my own experience the 4CU is very unreliable & I suggest you either try one from a known good vehicle - which might be difficult - or send yours to one of the specialist repairers with a list of symptoms & what you've done so far so you can eliminate it as the cause (or show it as the cause!)
I presume your coolant temp sensor is ETC8496 & you've got the plastic nut variety & the plastic bit is just spinning around?
Had this happen on mine & needed to butcher it to get it off by cutting away the plastic with a Dremel & flexi drive fitted with the small cutting discs until I could get at some metal with a pair of locking pliers.
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shocker
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F- there is fuel in the filter
Rat - yes, 8496. plastic spinning as you say. I had thought the same as you tell happened to you but its good to have someone confirm that its the only way before I start.
Timing is not far out as the dizzy is in its usual place, and NO, I have not sorted the issue as other work has got in the way. I do not think the timing is really the fault causing the trouble but it would be good to know and eliminate it.
Loom damage had been on my mind as a) the wiring is old and grotty and I have replaced several sections (inc plugs) recently and b) during the welding of the drivers footwell there was the potential of heat damage. Especially since the state of loom is questionable.
So...visual inspection of loom, bell through for continuity and meter as per workshop manual specs
Thanks guys, for your input and patience
Rat - yes, 8496. plastic spinning as you say. I had thought the same as you tell happened to you but its good to have someone confirm that its the only way before I start.
Timing is not far out as the dizzy is in its usual place, and NO, I have not sorted the issue as other work has got in the way. I do not think the timing is really the fault causing the trouble but it would be good to know and eliminate it.
Loom damage had been on my mind as a) the wiring is old and grotty and I have replaced several sections (inc plugs) recently and b) during the welding of the drivers footwell there was the potential of heat damage. Especially since the state of loom is questionable.
So...visual inspection of loom, bell through for continuity and meter as per workshop manual specs
Thanks guys, for your input and patience
Best way of checking the timing is to remove the left rocker cover & No1 plug - front left bank.
Using a long rod down No1 plug hole turn the engine int its normal direction of rotation unit both No1 valves are closed & the piston is at the top of its compression stroke.
The pointer should be in line with the TDC mark on the scale.
The rotor arm should be pointing at the manual's No1 plug lead position.
Using a long rod down No1 plug hole turn the engine int its normal direction of rotation unit both No1 valves are closed & the piston is at the top of its compression stroke.
The pointer should be in line with the TDC mark on the scale.
The rotor arm should be pointing at the manual's No1 plug lead position.
shocker
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thanks mate
pete1987RRC
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This also sounds like an air issue, check all the pipes om the plenum, they can come off all on thier own and take the pipe afm to plenum off and check for holes and to see if ots collapsed.
Does ypur motor have the 9th injector l/h side of thw plenum.
Does ypur motor have the 9th injector l/h side of thw plenum.
shocker
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Pete, recently did the pipe check and sealed the chamber. The afm pipe is not great but not entirely collapsed - I am having trouble finding one at a realistic price
Yes, there is a ninth injector, I generally have it disconnected but have tried with it in both states - no change
thanks mate
Yes, there is a ninth injector, I generally have it disconnected but have tried with it in both states - no change
thanks mate
For the flapper it's NRC9997.
Rimmers show it as NLA but a new pattern part NRC9997PI & from the OEM. £35 + p&p
LR Direct new for under £30 + p&p www.lrdirect.com/NRC9997-Hose-To-Plenum-Rr-3.5-Non-Cat./
I replaced mine & looked at a couple of alternatives - silicone wire reinforced hose for one which didn't work as it was too rigid over the short length needed - but eventually found a proper decent used one on ebay.
If I was going to do it now I'd just buy one of the above, they should fit & save a lot of messing about.
Rimmers show it as NLA but a new pattern part NRC9997PI & from the OEM. £35 + p&p
LR Direct new for under £30 + p&p www.lrdirect.com/NRC9997-Hose-To-Plenum-Rr-3.5-Non-Cat./
I replaced mine & looked at a couple of alternatives - silicone wire reinforced hose for one which didn't work as it was too rigid over the short length needed - but eventually found a proper decent used one on ebay.
If I was going to do it now I'd just buy one of the above, they should fit & save a lot of messing about.
shocker
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Again, Rat, many thanks
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