1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi

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Fred the gas

New Member
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6
Location
Dorset
Hi, I am new to the group and would like to ask for help.
I have been rebuilding a classic Range Rover 2 door for about 5 years, I have of course changed my mind about certain things, but have finally started putting it back together after completely rebuilding the chassis. I could have bought a new Gálvez one but decided I wanted to keep it as original as possible to maintain the identity.
The only change I have made is replacing the engine.( it came with a Perkins diesel).
I have bought a 300tdi from a discovery, lt77 gearbox with long stick.
I measured the engine mounts on the discovery chassis , cut them out and welded them into the same position in my Range Rover.
Now the engine and box are fitted I have noticed that the engine timing cover is touching the top nut of the steering box.
As this is an early Range Rover , it has the older steering box.
Do I need to just shim the engine and raise it or do I need to change the steering box.
I would much appreciate any comments you have.
 
You will need to change the bulkhead.
300tdi doesn't fit in early range rovers very well.

Better off keeping it original and buying a vehicle that more suits your wants
 
Dead Badger said:
You will need to change the bulkhead.
300tdi doesn't fit in early range rovers very well.

Better off keeping it original and buying a vehicle that more suits your wants
Click to expand...
Hi, Thanks for your reply.
Does this mean the bulk head will foul the engine when I refit the body.
 
Fred the gas said:
Hi, I am new to the group and would like to ask for help.
I have been rebuilding a classic Range Rover 2 door for about 5 years, I have of course changed my mind about certain things, but have finally started putting it back together after completely rebuilding the chassis. I could have bought a new Gálvez one but decided I wanted to keep it as original as possible to maintain the identity.
The only change I have made is replacing the engine.( it came with a Perkins diesel).
I have bought a 300tdi from a discovery, lt77 gearbox with long stick.
I measured the engine mounts on the discovery chassis , cut them out and welded them into the same position in my Range Rover.
Now the engine and box are fitted I have noticed that the engine timing cover is touching the top nut of the steering box.
As this is an early Range Rover , it has the older steering box.
Do I need to just shim the engine and raise it or do I need to change the steering box.
I would much appreciate any comments you have.
Click to expand...
As it is a bespoke build, you can probably do as you like to make it fit. There isn't really a right or wrong.

I would say, have you checked the price of 2 door RR's recently though? The Tdi is an ok engine, but a little unrefined and somewhat underpowered in a Range Rover. I understand you are likely fairly committed at this point. But I'd have thought the vehicle would be worth more with something like a 4.6 Rover V8 engine in. Mpg won't be as good, but realistically this comes down to how many miles a year you think you'll actually do in the vehicle. If you are only likely to do 3000 miles a year or less, the mpg savings of a Tdi will be barely noticeable in the grand scheme of running a car, let alone rebuilding one.
 
blue beasty said:
Not really helpful if you don't know is it just to facilitate your stock answer of keeping it original and buy summink else :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Based on their tone and high number of spamming posts in short order. I pressume they are returning serial banned member, likely heading for another account being banned if they carry on?
 
300bhp/ton said:
As it is a bespoke build, you can probably do as you like to make it fit. There isn't really a right or wrong.

I would say, have you checked the price of 2 door RR's recently though? The Tdi is an ok engine, but a little unrefined and somewhat underpowered in a Range Rover. I understand you are likely fairly committed at this point. But I'd have thought the vehicle would be worth more with something like a 4.6 Rover V8 engine in. Mpg won't be as good, but realistically this comes down to how many miles a year you think you'll actually do in the vehicle. If you are only likely to do 3000 miles a year or less, the mpg savings of a Tdi will be barely noticeable in the grand scheme of running a car, let alone rebuilding one.
Click to expand...
A 300tdi is fine in a range rover given the correct body shape.
 
As far as I remember, the 2.4 and 2.5 TD's from VM are a straight swap for the V8. And not bad engines neither. Cooling of the back cylinder head is a tad nad, and each cylinder has its own gasket. Apparently moving the the cooling over flow tank higher in the engine bay solves that issue. Never tried any of that so.

If originality is a goal, one of those VM engines would suit better than the TDi's. Or, of course, the classic 3.5 V8 with dual carbs.

Or a 3l Isuzu turbo diesel as used in the Australian Perenties. Powerfull, also straight seap for a v8 and a LT95 and, according to German authorities, still considered a temporary mod, so close enough for an orginal-ish car.

Getting one of those Isuzu might be challenging so. The VMs have been used widely in everything Alfa Romeo and Chrysler, including Cherokees. So there should be plenty of those around.
 
Also your measurements… where did you take these from? I think you have mounted the engine too far forward. Engine should be back from the steering box. Have a look at a disco/late range these are both the same.
 
I took all my measurements from the 300tdi discovery donor I have. Cut the engine mounts off and welded them into the Range Rover chassis.
I run a 4.0 p38 as my daily vehicle and where I live towing a trailer, I am lucky to get around 10 to the gallon.
I also had to replace the engine block at 110000 miles and I hear the 4.6 is even worse for cracking.
Once finished this will be my work vehicle. Being a welder by trade, alterations don’t worry me.
 
is the gearbox in position?
Could you measure to see if the gearbox is in the correct position for the tunnel/gear lever outlet(on RR body)

Post a few photos of the build. Makes things clearer to other people
Thanks
 
Gearbox and transfer box all fitted onto mounts, nowhere near getting body on yet as I need to get fuel tank and lines in next.
It’s the body that has taken the time as it was completely rotted out around 6 inches from the bottom
Will post photos later in the build
 
Fred the gas said:
I run a 4.0 p38 as my daily vehicle and where I live towing a trailer, I am lucky to get around 10 to the gallon.
I also had to replace the engine block at 110000 miles and I hear the 4.6 is even worse for cracking.
Click to expand...
Usually slipped liner & yes the 4.6 was the most likely to suffer from this malady though any 94mm bore RV8 is vulnerable.
 
Fred the gas said:
Gearbox and transfer box all fitted onto mounts, nowhere near getting body on yet as I need to get fuel tank and lines in next.
It’s the body that has taken the time as it was completely rotted out around 6 inches from the bottom
Will post photos later in the build
Click to expand...
Be nice to see some of the 'warts & all' ones too!
 
Hi,
Been in the workshop today and managed to make some progress with the steering box position.
I measured the box on a friends 300 discovery and it is indeed smaller than the early Range Rover.
So I fitted the later 4 bolt steering box and now I have about 25mm clearance.
I have uploaded some photos.
I also measured the bulkhead on the Range Rover and it looks like it will be tight, but it will fit.
Next problem is the gearbox, I was hoping to convert the lt77 gearbox to a long stick by changing the box on the top. However after trying, and speaking to David Ashcroft, it looks as if this will not be possible.
So it’s either recon r38 defender box or have the gearstick further back.
Cost is around £1300, so I am going to have to sell some things around the workshop. About time I had a sort out anyway. IMG_3902.jpegIMG_3903.jpegIMG_3906.jpegIMG_3905.jpegIMG_3904.jpeg
 
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