1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi

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Fred the gas

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Dorset
Hi, I am new to the group and would like to ask for help.
I have been rebuilding a classic Range Rover 2 door for about 5 years, I have of course changed my mind about certain things, but have finally started putting it back together after completely rebuilding the chassis. I could have bought a new Gálvez one but decided I wanted to keep it as original as possible to maintain the identity.
The only change I have made is replacing the engine.( it came with a Perkins diesel).
I have bought a 300tdi from a discovery, lt77 gearbox with long stick.
I measured the engine mounts on the discovery chassis , cut them out and welded them into the same position in my Range Rover.
Now the engine and box are fitted I have noticed that the engine timing cover is touching the top nut of the steering box.
As this is an early Range Rover , it has the older steering box.
Do I need to just shim the engine and raise it or do I need to change the steering box.
I would much appreciate any comments you have.
 
You will need to change the bulkhead.
300tdi doesn't fit in early range rovers very well.

Better off keeping it original and buying a vehicle that more suits your wants
 
Hi, I am new to the group and would like to ask for help.
I have been rebuilding a classic Range Rover 2 door for about 5 years, I have of course changed my mind about certain things, but have finally started putting it back together after completely rebuilding the chassis. I could have bought a new Gálvez one but decided I wanted to keep it as original as possible to maintain the identity.
The only change I have made is replacing the engine.( it came with a Perkins diesel).
I have bought a 300tdi from a discovery, lt77 gearbox with long stick.
I measured the engine mounts on the discovery chassis , cut them out and welded them into the same position in my Range Rover.
Now the engine and box are fitted I have noticed that the engine timing cover is touching the top nut of the steering box.
As this is an early Range Rover , it has the older steering box.
Do I need to just shim the engine and raise it or do I need to change the steering box.
I would much appreciate any comments you have.
As it is a bespoke build, you can probably do as you like to make it fit. There isn't really a right or wrong.

I would say, have you checked the price of 2 door RR's recently though? The Tdi is an ok engine, but a little unrefined and somewhat underpowered in a Range Rover. I understand you are likely fairly committed at this point. But I'd have thought the vehicle would be worth more with something like a 4.6 Rover V8 engine in. Mpg won't be as good, but realistically this comes down to how many miles a year you think you'll actually do in the vehicle. If you are only likely to do 3000 miles a year or less, the mpg savings of a Tdi will be barely noticeable in the grand scheme of running a car, let alone rebuilding one.
 
Not really helpful if you don't know is it just to facilitate your stock answer of keeping it original and buy summink else :rolleyes:
Based on their tone and high number of spamming posts in short order. I pressume they are returning serial banned member, likely heading for another account being banned if they carry on?
 
As it is a bespoke build, you can probably do as you like to make it fit. There isn't really a right or wrong.

I would say, have you checked the price of 2 door RR's recently though? The Tdi is an ok engine, but a little unrefined and somewhat underpowered in a Range Rover. I understand you are likely fairly committed at this point. But I'd have thought the vehicle would be worth more with something like a 4.6 Rover V8 engine in. Mpg won't be as good, but realistically this comes down to how many miles a year you think you'll actually do in the vehicle. If you are only likely to do 3000 miles a year or less, the mpg savings of a Tdi will be barely noticeable in the grand scheme of running a car, let alone rebuilding one.
A 300tdi is fine in a range rover given the correct body shape.
 
In my opinion the only 'fine' RRC is powered by a RV8 ;)
The only reason LR produced a diesel version was to meet the demands of a European market.
 
As far as I remember, the 2.4 and 2.5 TD's from VM are a straight swap for the V8. And not bad engines neither. Cooling of the back cylinder head is a tad nad, and each cylinder has its own gasket. Apparently moving the the cooling over flow tank higher in the engine bay solves that issue. Never tried any of that so.

If originality is a goal, one of those VM engines would suit better than the TDi's. Or, of course, the classic 3.5 V8 with dual carbs.

Or a 3l Isuzu turbo diesel as used in the Australian Perenties. Powerfull, also straight seap for a v8 and a LT95 and, according to German authorities, still considered a temporary mod, so close enough for an orginal-ish car.

Getting one of those Isuzu might be challenging so. The VMs have been used widely in everything Alfa Romeo and Chrysler, including Cherokees. So there should be plenty of those around.
 
Also your measurements… where did you take these from? I think you have mounted the engine too far forward. Engine should be back from the steering box. Have a look at a disco/late range these are both the same.
 
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