1975 series 3 rebuild ongoing (lots of photos)

TD5power · Oct 27, 2013

onecelledcreature said:
A bit more progress.

New bonnet has sat like this for weeks waiting for a nice sunny painting day (yeah right)

N/S door is fitted and locks shut. top seals are in place and it seemed to hold off the rain over night

The panel gap feels larger than i'd like.
I've been worried since doing it that i got the crossmember welding slightly out of place, because it's not an easy job to fix.

The bottom sills should really be replaces with new galv ones, but i can't justify that right now and they're just solid enough to get by.

i then tested some of the panels to see how they fitted.

Other jobs included the seatbelt mounts and some painting of the chassis in areas i'd missed because of the gearbox being in the way.

it was all going so well until those horrible floor plates ha ha

onecelledcreature · Oct 27, 2013

TD5power said:
it was all going so well until those horrible floor plates ha ha

I know, they were an ebay bargin early on, and the old ones were shot completely. I have planned some heavy duty soundproof mats for the future when i can afford them.

I'm also not too worried about keeping it totally original

davebeccles · Oct 29, 2013

This is all wonderful. It really gives me hope as my Landy spends weekends on the drive with no movement at all. Keep the pictures coming!!

onecelledcreature · Oct 29, 2013

davebeccles said:
This is all wonderful. It really gives me hope as my Landy spends weekends on the drive with no movement at all. Keep the pictures coming!!

cheers, yours looks interesting too, are you going to do a progress thread? would love to see it.

onecelledcreature · Oct 29, 2013

As a side point, i've got the freewheel hubs cleaned up, i'm not so sure what to look for on the internals, but to me they're not working perfectly.

the little rectangles aren't springing out, and i assume this is how they lock, there's some other bits i think that need cleaning and sorting.

is this going to be something i can manage myself, are parts easy to find?
do i bite the bullet and sell them as not working?

my idea is to get new bolts matched and maybe buy a new gasket set and sell like that.
I've also got an original copy of the manual for them?
I don't want to let them go for nothing on ebay as i just saw a set go for £100+ and i could do with that kind of money right now

any thoughts/buyers?

davebeccles · Oct 30, 2013

onecelledcreature said:
cheers, yours looks interesting too, are you going to do a progress thread? would love to see it.

A progress thread requires progress.......

onecelledcreature · Nov 14, 2013

Ok i was planning on taking the knackered tires off my wheels and getting the rims blasted and painted up again, is there any reason i can't have them galvanised?
I've got a few bits of spare steel like a windscreen lying round, and if i had a pile of stuff i might pull the cappings off too and have them done.

but the rims especially, is there any reason not to?

Andrewrp6 · Nov 14, 2013

Im gonna strip my wheels and paint with hammerite, should look decent enough. Why do yo want galvanised wheels?

onecelledcreature · Nov 14, 2013

Andrewrp6 said:
Im gonna strip my wheels and paint with hammerite, should look decent enough. Why do yo want galvanised wheels?

i picked up an old set so i could still roll the car when i was sorting the good ones out, they're pretty well rusted and shot, so i figured it might be worth doing, and then the good ones will potentially last a lot longer.
I'd still paint them up, but underneath i know i wouldn't need to worry
Also i figured it was better value to get a pile of stuff galvanised together

discomark10 · Nov 14, 2013

dont see why not, they used magnesium wheel a few years back and they set of fire when they got hot! so cant be any worse than that

Geep · Nov 14, 2013

Free Wheel hubs exploded diagram

onecelledcreature · Nov 14, 2013

Geep said:
Free Wheel hubs exploded diagram

cheers, very useful booklet, but the hubs are definitely beyond my skills, i'd guess the parts are like hens teeth too.

I bought an old workshop manual on ebay a while back, inside there was a copy of that, plus fairey overdrive fitting instructions and a capstan winch installation guide.

if i end up selling the hubs i'll include the booklet, might help them sell for a decent price given that they're bolloxed.

Geep · Nov 14, 2013

I don't know if you're a Series 2 Club forum member, try the link.

I posted a few photos of my strip down an rebuild of hubs

link to Series 2 post

onecelledcreature · Nov 14, 2013

Geep said:
I don't know if you're a Series 2 Club forum member, try the link.

I posted a few photos of my strip down an rebuild of hubs

link to Series 2 post

that's really good actually, very clear. did you buy new parts or just clean up?

are the pins and the pawl retainer completely free or were they glued or fixed? one of mine is stuck to the cover casing and the over is stuck in place the same as yours covering the pawls.
photos:

both the actuating discs on mine are stuck right now, and both are pretty corroded on the bolts.
one of the cases is also split, as you can see here:

i reckon without a pile of new bits, or maybe butchering another hub to make one good one, then these aren't worth it

Geep · Nov 15, 2013

Just used the existing parts after a good clean up.

I filed off any burrs and generally gave all the mating surfaces
a good polishing.

The actuator should come out of the housing, I'd give the whole
thing a good soak in plus gas or diesel and strip the hubs into
bits completely.

Clean up everything best you can, the slugs should move in the
slots easily but not wobble. Turn the springs round if they're bent,
I managed to straighten mine out.

Everything should rotate, the operating ring should rotate and
push the slugs back, hard to test when they're off, but you should
be able to tell if it'll work.

Lots of grease when you reassemble them and use gaskets not
compound. soak the gaskets in 3 in 1 before fitting.

Good luck

Quick edit, there is a rubber O ring on the actuator, so I reckon you
should get it out of the lid, the crack may be a problem, does it go
all the way through, suppose just suck it and see.

Oh and the pins on the outer ring are just an interference fit and do come out.

Rattlegun · Nov 16, 2013

I like your paint job, please could tell me what paint you are using, where it's from, how much thinning it needed and any other details as it's nearly time to paint mine! Thanks

onecelledcreature · Nov 17, 2013

Rattlegun said:
I like your paint job, please could tell me what paint you are using, where it's from, how much thinning it needed and any other details as it's nearly time to paint mine! Thanks

I got mine from this seller
Landrover Vehicle Paint 2.5Ltr-5Ltr Cans - All Colours | eBay

i used their matching thinners at first, but they weren't cheap, i got by later on using a few £9 cans from the local autoshop.

the quality seems pretty good, i've bought 7.5 ltrs now plus some small aerosol cans, and the colour match has been pretty good so far.
i would recommend, but if you haven't painted before like i hadn't do some research and do the prep. I think i'm going to have a fe bits where it flakes away.
I also had a few reactions with primers that took some work to fix

Mickeyblueeyes · Nov 17, 2013

Hi mate really really really really really really good thread
Thank you for writing it and keeping the photos up 👍

Given me the much needed enthusiasm I need to carry on with mine , just need to find some workshop space to work on it 😕😑

Keep up with the good work mate you'll have something real good quality when it's finished

Look forward to seeing it fished and all the photos in between 👍👍👍

onecelledcreature · Nov 21, 2013

Mickeyblueeyes said:
Hi mate really really really really really really good thread
Thank you for writing it and keeping the photos up

Given me the much needed enthusiasm I need to carry on with mine , just need to find some workshop space to work on it

Keep up with the good work mate you'll have something real good quality when it's finished

Look forward to seeing it fished and all the photos in between

cheers, don't need a workshop. Apart from a few weeks in a mates garage mines all been on driveways!

Managed to do a bit more done this week not as much as i'd like.
got a nice order from craddocks with some odds and ends, also new stub axle and UJ that's a job I'm not looking forward to.

Did a test fit of one wing, bit wobbly as i'm still waiting on the fixing plates for the grill.

(i haven't made my mind up on the tread plate, and i know what certain people will say, but i think the silver goes well with the colour, and it will cover the rivets needed to repair the inner wing brackets, as well as giving some strength)

Got the drivers door on.

did a bit more test fitting of the body, just to see how it lined up, seatbox is good

does anyone know why there is a hole in the bulkhead in the drivers footwell?
is there a specific part to fill it? i assume it just needs a suitable grommet?

Tonight's work was fitting the glass to the rear tailgate.
Horrible job, i didn't have any tools or really any idea on the method, my dad suggested waxed string to pull it through but i did manage by hand and with a few pokey tools.

AND DONE!

there's a tiny gap at the bottom of the seal, but maybe i can just finish with with some silicone.

Hopefully by friday i can get the back door on properly, as the hinge pins arrived today, then i need a trip to the engineers shop for a big bag of bolts

Blackburn · Nov 21, 2013

Handbrake gaiter is back to front but there a waste of time in any case as rubber splits made one from vinyl.

1975 series 3 rebuild ongoing (lots of photos)

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