1965 Series 2a Station Wagon in Holland

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Disco1BFG said:
IIRC, molasses can be "sped up" by electrolysis, but, I just use Fertan, its easier, cheaper, and a lot less mess IME.
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I like Fertan - I've used it before - but it doesn't do the same thing this Rustyco stuff does. (I think Evaporust does the same thing as Rustyco and that seems to be easier to get in the UK). The Fertan does a great job eating the surface rust but doesn't seem to do as well removing it completely like this Rustyco can. With the Fertan you get a dark blue layer of staining. Rustyco you can eventually get clean steel.

The next stage in the "Fertan system" is "Ferpox" which is a really nice epoxy undercoat. I de-rusted the entire suspension of my Mercedes 190 and sprayed it with that stuff. I'm very happy with this Ferpox product and have bought some to use on this Land Rover of mine.

boguing said:
Couple of things..

Molasses does work on rust. Slow, definitely, and although my experiment is still going on, I don't think that it's a fantastic miracle cure. I photographed a couple of bits as a 'before' picture last weekend, so I'll revisit them in a week or so. Thin stuff does disappear but I put some bolts in that had the nasty strong flaky stuff and they haven't really been touched yet.

Zinga - just noticed that I have a bottle of their thinners and had forgotten part of the conversation I had with them. Deffo needs thinning for spraying, but almost certainly does for brushing too. You'll need to get some. I should be using it for the first time next week and will be spraying, so I'll try and remember the %age thinning that works and let you know. I'm taking an axle and bits to a blaster and waiting while he does them so I can get the paint on immediately. Cue torrential rain and high humidity on Thursday.
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For the Zinga (as for the Ferpox) I've bought the spray can versions. I know I'm getting a poorer deal for the unit weight or volume of the product but I'm hoping it will save me some trouble with thinners and having to go and dig my compressor out of storage...

...when I get some (rattle can) spraying done I'll post up the results.

I too will be dancing with the clouds this week - good luck!
 
Stretch said:
Engine out!View attachment 100029
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I have the same engine crane but mine is all the same colour (red)! :p

Stretch said:
So the burning question on every one's lips is "can you uses a LWB chassis as wheel barrow?"
View attachment 100077
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The question is: Is that a three wheel bicycle that carries a wheely bin? o_O

Stretch said:
Arrgh! Rear springs - putting up a bit of a fight.

The bolts in the front part of the rear springs seem to be rusted into the bushing in the leaf spring eye end (is it called an eye? Eye forget)...

View attachment 100303

I've smacked the heck out of them and they will not budge. I've tried to unscrew them too - that doesn't work.
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Do both at the same time... Impact gun going flat out in one hand and swinging a hammer (hopefully at the bolt!) in the other hand. :cool:

Stretch said:
Well I didn't have my Shreddies this morning - bloody chassis is a bit heavier than I thought - I wanted it neatly up on its side today out of the way but it keeps on slipping so I need to get some help to make sure I don't damage the little I have left of it...
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Tie something from the lower part of the chassis to something solid behind you, then it won't slip :D

Stretch said:
I realise now it isn't a smart move scrubbing the rust off the parts in the bath of fluid. It is best to do it outside of the bath - wash - and then put back in so you don't end up with so much sludge in the bottom of the bath => I want the solution to be working on the parts not the flakes of rust I rub off.
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I got a bicycle inner tube and put a few small holes in it around the inside and then placed this around the bottom of the tub. I then attached a 12 volt tyre compressor which was hooked up to a car battery on trickle charge. I then got one of them plastic coated mesh drawers you find in a dish washer and manipulated in it in such a way that it kept the parts off the bottom of the tank and stopped the inner tube from floating to the surface. What happens when you fire it up is you get a nice constant stream of bubbles all around which moves the water about and agitates the gunk and rust etc. I have used this method to degrease and rust remove with the electrolysis method. Basically if you get it moving about a bit it works much better and speeds things up.

Stretch said:
More front axle horror pictures =>
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THE-HORROR-DARK-c.jpg


Stretch said:
Today I had to spend some time improving security. There are some Turkish bell ends who have moved in to the same warehouse who seem to be incapable of closing and locking doors. Whilst complaints are being made (and not just by me) I decided I needed another line of defence to stop others from wandering off with my rust!
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There is someone at my work who has this same affliction, he is often in over a friday night or weekend, I go to open up on Mondat morning and the door is left unlocked, sometimes open a jar (not used the saying in years!).
 
Dan_Trials said:
I have the same engine crane but mine is all the same colour (red)! :p
...
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Yeah it was a bit cheap and after a time outside I ended up starting a restoration on it - but as you can see I kind of got bothered with other stuff...

Dan_Trials said:
...
The question is: Is that a three wheel bicycle that carries a wheely bin? o_O
...
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Yes it is!

I have been reliably informed it is for fat blokes with beards who wear leather waistcoats and want to drive around on VW Beetle based trikes. In order for them to deal with the ridicule there is government trail where they get to ride about on the "Bin Trike" first. It is reckoned that if they can take the constant pestering from 6 year olds screaming "Hey mister I've got an ice cream wrapper too" then the government reckons they can deal with the sniggers - the pointing - and the lewd hand gestures from other motorists as they ride about on their VW disasters...

Dan_Trials said:
...

Do both at the same time... Impact gun going flat out in one hand and swinging a hammer (hopefully at the bolt!) in the other hand. :cool:

...
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OK will do - next week or so I might even have my compressor on site so I will not only have electrickery but air too.

Dan_Trials said:
...
I got a bicycle inner tube and put a few small holes in it around the inside and then placed this around the bottom of the tub. I then attached a 12 volt tyre compressor which was hooked up to a car battery on trickle charge. I then got one of them plastic coated mesh drawers you find in a dish washer and manipulated in it in such a way that it kept the parts off the bottom of the tank and stopped the inner tube from floating to the surface. What happens when you fire it up is you get a nice constant stream of bubbles all around which moves the water about and agitates the gunk and rust etc. I have used this method to degrease and rust remove with the electrolysis method. Basically if you get it moving about a bit it works much better and speeds things up.

...
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Worth considering thanks.

Dan_Trials said:
...

There is someone at my work who has this same affliction, he is often in over a friday night or weekend, I go to open up on Mondat morning and the door is left unlocked, sometimes open a jar (not used the saying in years!).
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Well as Kenny Everett said

"Round em up - put em in a field and bomb the bastards"

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Christmas in June =>

1965 series 2a station wagon order from paddocks arrived1.jpg
1965 series 2a station wagon order from paddocks arrived2.jpg


Took a bit of time going through the order to work out if I had got everything.

It all seems present and correct except for the U bolts. I really can't be bothered chasing them up though. I'll see if what I have got is even close to what they should be - they strike me as being way thinner than the ones that were originally fitted. <= to be continued...
 
So how would you get your Land Rover spares to your workshop on the other side of town?

The three wheeled theme continues!

(It is Holland after all)

1965 series 2a land rover transporting land rover spares1.jpg


Must have been at least 200kg of stuff on it. And whilst Holland is known for being flat where I am it isn't as flat as you might think.

Nearly did me in!

1965 series 2a station wagon transporting land rover spares2.jpg


Still the YRM order and the Paddocks one and a new trolley jack are now filling up the place.

1965 series 2a station wagon workshop area needs a sort out now.jpg


My little corner of the world needs a bloody good sort out.
 
Dan_Trials said:
Is that a lever under the seat or some sort of impaling device in the event of a crash? Also, is that thing on the tailboard for women?
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Hey when I'm riding most of the chicks sit up front. Some of the scary ones like the impaling device...

...when I'm riding I use the impaling device for its intended purpose => Brake.

There's no freewheel - pedals are fixed so when you're going down hill (with the front full of women of course) then there's a chance the damn thing will run away and your feet won't be able to stay on the pedals. Luckily with the road presence most people get out of the way and don't end up sitting up front too.
 
Got to have a quick butchers at the engine today.

I was told it would crank over - hmmm - not so sure if that's the case!

I've been politely sceptical about the previous owner's idea that you just had to fix the brakes and take it off for an MOT - here's more evidence that that vision is one with rose tinted spectacles...

...not that I'm upset at all - I bought what I thought was a pile of junk and so far considering my expectations I've been pleasantly surprised by just how original the vehicle is...

...but anyway this needs fixing =>

Filthy dirty "probably original" engine oil

Minging

1965 series 2a station ming under the valve cover.JPG


Rocker arms and push rods came out easily

As did the head - I think it has been off recently

1965 series 2a station wagon head gasket looks pretty new1.JPG

1965 series 2a station wagon head gasket looks pretty new2.JPG


That head gasket looks way too clean to me.

Loads of carbon build up on the pistons

1965 series 2a station wagon head removed.JPG


It hasn't been a happy machine

Worst bit of evidence is a stuck valve on cylinder #3

1965 series 2a station wagon head removed at least one valve bent stuck1.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon head removed at least one valve bent stuck2.JPG


So head will be stripped for a rebuild.

Surface looks quite OK though- still I haven't checked it for flatness or cracks yet

I can't see any marks on cylinder crowns for valve : piston contact yet but the crank is seized solid so I'm soaking the bores with ATF =>

1965 series 2a station wagon soaking bores with ATF as the crank is a wee bit stuck.jpg


I've been a good lad - just look at this!

1965 series 2a station wagon head bolts nicely organised in a cardboard box.jpg
 
Stretch said:
Hey when I'm riding most of the chicks sit up front. Some of the scary ones like the impaling device...

...when I'm riding I use the impaling device for its intended purpose => Brake.

There's no freewheel - pedals are fixed so when you're going down hill (with the front full of women of course) then there's a chance the damn thing will run away and your feet won't be able to stay on the pedals. Luckily with the road presence most people get out of the way and don't end up sitting up front too.
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Ah yes I can see the rodney on the other end of the device of impalement.

Do they not hear the big bell that's on it? :D
 
G'day Folks,

I'm looking for advice and opinions of the Zinga results please. What do you think?

Here's a comparison of the colour of the Zinga with bright zinc plated washers that have gone a little bit manky.

1965 series 2a station wagon zinga on roof vents comparison1.JPG
1965 series 2a station wagon zinga on roof vents comparison2.JPG
1965 series 2a station wagon zinga on roof vents comparison3.JPG


It looks much more like spray paint than bright zinc plating. That's not such a surprise. I reckon the best comparison is going to be with the surface of something like zincor (zinc plated sheet steel). I'm just off to the Land Rover to see if I can find a bit - and perhaps get a bit of old galvanised something or other to do another colour comparison.
 
Just had another bash at the engine.

The front starting dog nut thing needs a special tool => 530102

Looked everywhere for the size of the nut and it seems to be a bit of a well kept secret from google at the moment!

Turns out to be 1 11/16" => closest metric size that just about goes on is 42mm

I've got a 41mm spanner and a 46 mm spanner (for Mercedes prop shafts) but no 42mm

Turned out for removal a bit of padding with masking tape and the use of a 46mm socket (probably used for a Mercedes steering box) I got the thing off with out causing any damage.

All good stuff but I reckon I'd better source a 42mm socket for reassembly.

######

ATF hasn't soaked through past the piston rings yet - hmmm - stuck as a stuck thing then...
 
Stretch said:
Just had another bash at the engine.

The front starting dog nut thing needs a special tool => 530102

Looked everywhere for the size of the nut and it seems to be a bit of a well kept secret from google at the moment!

Turns out to be 1 11/16" => closest metric size that just about goes on is 42mm

I've got a 41mm spanner and a 46 mm spanner (for Mercedes prop shafts) but no 42mm

Turned out for removal a bit of padding with masking tape and the use of a 46mm socket (probably used for a Mercedes steering box) I got the thing off with out causing any damage.

All good stuff but I reckon I'd better source a 42mm socket for reassembly.

######

ATF hasn't soaked through past the piston rings yet - hmmm - stuck as a stuck thing then...
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I had a pinto bottom end that was sat outside for a number of years, I got it moving by heating some diesel in a small sauce pan and pouring it on the pistons. Might be worth a try.
 
Dan_Trials said:
I had a pinto bottom end that was sat outside for a number of years, I got it moving by heating some diesel in a small sauce pan and pouring it on the pistons. Might be worth a try.
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Thanks - I'm getting there slowly

1965 series 2a station wagon sump off engine.jpg
1965 series 2a station wagon timing chain removed.jpg
1965 series 2a station wagon almost got the crankshaft out.jpg


Boy have I got to get a better camera - one that does better poor light pictures
 
Dan_Trials said:
Think you'll need to shot blast that oil off!
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Tell me about it.

The sludge in the bottom of the sump is like waste from the Tory Canyon only with out the seals and and the feathered wildlife.

It is grim.

Luckily they still sell chemical cold degreaser here in Holland to the public, so I don't have to resort to soaking in petrol (or other crazy things like that). They have, however, stopped "us" from buying decent paint stripper. It still exists for companies but individuals are left with products which honestly really ought to be dragged in front of trading standards...

...but that's another story - another whinge.
 
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