1965 Series 2a Station Wagon in Holland
- Thread starter Stretch
- Start date
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Speaking of rear cross members - if any one can help with this question that would be great =>
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-thread-this-time-lugs-for-tail-gates.299566/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-thread-this-time-lugs-for-tail-gates.299566/
Front axle came off quite easily too (though that steering repeating thing in the front cross member is gonna be fun)
So the burning question on every one's lips is "can you uses a LWB chassis as wheel barrow?"
Answer: yes you can.
And my little corner of the world looks rather different now
So the burning question on every one's lips is "can you uses a LWB chassis as wheel barrow?"
Answer: yes you can.
And my little corner of the world looks rather different now
Order from YRM is on the way. I'm getting ready to think about putting stuff back on and I haven't even got the rear axle off yet...
...I guess that's a positive thing.
The plan is to strip the chassis and put it out of the way to the side of the work area and then get the axles, seat tub, safari roof and the rear tub parts repaired and hoisted into the roof space so I'll have enough room to strip down the engine and gearbox and to repair the chassis.
...I guess that's a positive thing.
The plan is to strip the chassis and put it out of the way to the side of the work area and then get the axles, seat tub, safari roof and the rear tub parts repaired and hoisted into the roof space so I'll have enough room to strip down the engine and gearbox and to repair the chassis.
Arrgh! Rear springs - putting up a bit of a fight.
The bolts in the front part of the rear springs seem to be rusted into the bushing in the leaf spring eye end (is it called an eye? Eye forget)...
I've smacked the heck out of them and they will not budge. I've tried to unscrew them too - that doesn't work. It looks like I'll have to cut them out. In order to do that though I really want to be able to flip the chassis over on to its back so I can see what the heck I'll be doing.
Luckily the back mounts on the leaf springs are not rusted solid so I can undo those and after cutting off the U bolts for the axle remove the axle.
Cutting the U bolts =>
Note the tabs were never bent to lock the nuts - it is almost as though they expected the rust to hold it all in place!
The bolts in the front part of the rear springs seem to be rusted into the bushing in the leaf spring eye end (is it called an eye? Eye forget)...
I've smacked the heck out of them and they will not budge. I've tried to unscrew them too - that doesn't work. It looks like I'll have to cut them out. In order to do that though I really want to be able to flip the chassis over on to its back so I can see what the heck I'll be doing.
Luckily the back mounts on the leaf springs are not rusted solid so I can undo those and after cutting off the U bolts for the axle remove the axle.
Cutting the U bolts =>
Note the tabs were never bent to lock the nuts - it is almost as though they expected the rust to hold it all in place!
Thanks
Progress has been really slow - I expected so much more to be done by now. Still I have a plan - just gorra get on with it.
Got my order from YRM today.
The main reason for ordering from them was to get replacement sills.
I have learnt that the Station Wagon is the only body version with the longer sills. The normal LWB body shares the sills with the SWB because it only have two doors.
In this order I have got A posts - complete.
These look like they have been made by someone else
The B posts look kind of OK made. I might add in a bit of reinforcing welding to hold the pipes together.
I'm not 100% happy with these.
They are only repair sections anyway - so I need to figure out where to cut
We'll see how they go - hopefully the rivet holes line up nicely
My biggest concern is the "captive" screw threads: I bet they're bloody metric.
Rubber seals for on the sills were also bought.
I'm not sure if this was a good move. These profiles don't look very original. I might have to resort to making my own.
At least the beefy sills look good.
I hope they are the correct length
I hope the "CNC holes" are in the correct places too.
The welding on the sills looks quite nice (for this part and where it goes) though.
There's no way I can fold metal that thick. The thinner stuff though is possible...
The main reason for ordering from them was to get replacement sills.
I have learnt that the Station Wagon is the only body version with the longer sills. The normal LWB body shares the sills with the SWB because it only have two doors.
In this order I have got A posts - complete.
These look like they have been made by someone else
The B posts look kind of OK made. I might add in a bit of reinforcing welding to hold the pipes together.
I'm not 100% happy with these.
They are only repair sections anyway - so I need to figure out where to cut
We'll see how they go - hopefully the rivet holes line up nicely
My biggest concern is the "captive" screw threads: I bet they're bloody metric.
Rubber seals for on the sills were also bought.
I'm not sure if this was a good move. These profiles don't look very original. I might have to resort to making my own.
At least the beefy sills look good.
I hope they are the correct length
I hope the "CNC holes" are in the correct places too.
The welding on the sills looks quite nice (for this part and where it goes) though.
There's no way I can fold metal that thick. The thinner stuff though is possible...
Well I didn't have my Shreddies this morning - bloody chassis is a bit heavier than I thought - I wanted it neatly up on its side today out of the way but it keeps on slipping so I need to get some help to make sure I don't damage the little I have left of it...
LincolnSteve
Well-Known Member
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- Lincoln
You're making great progress. I'm 18 months in to my project and at about the same stage so you are moving at light speed compared to me. Good luck with it all. I'll keep watching.
Got the roof vents out of the safari roof today. The opening closing mechanisms are all rusted solid. I tried freeing them up with penetrating oil but they weren't cooperating...
...so I'm trying "Rustyco". This stuff is water solluable "good for the planet" rust eater. There are several versions of this stuff advertised on the interweb - Holland seems to have this brand name.
Evaporust is the other one that seems to be big in the UK and the US of A. 'ere in Holland it is 'king expensive.
This isn't going to be a quick process but may be there will be some action by tomorrow morning.
...so I'm trying "Rustyco". This stuff is water solluable "good for the planet" rust eater. There are several versions of this stuff advertised on the interweb - Holland seems to have this brand name.
Evaporust is the other one that seems to be big in the UK and the US of A. 'ere in Holland it is 'king expensive.
This isn't going to be a quick process but may be there will be some action by tomorrow morning.
Thanks Steve - I'm actually really disappointed with my progress - I should have been at this stage a month ago - still life gets in the way I guess. Hopefully things will quieten down elsewhere and I'll be able to get a spurt on.
LincolnSteve
Well-Known Member
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- 1,204
- Location
- Lincoln
Have you tried white vinegar for rust removal? It's pretty good and it has the advantage of being dirt cheap.
