1962 2a 109

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
NiteMare said:
looking at what you've done so far i'll guess you are going to clock the turbo outlet upwards to save you cutting the inner wing panel, it's a pretty easy job and stops the inner wing falling to bits from the vibrations
Click to expand...

Hey up Nitemare or anyone else, could someone talk me through "clocking the turbo" whats involved ? any help is much appreciated.

Regards Chris
 
Eskvalleyboy said:
Hey up Nitemare or anyone else, could someone talk me through "clocking the turbo" whats involved ? any help is much appreciated.

Regards Chris
Click to expand...

aluminum snail housing can be tapped round to suit what ever postion you want may need some lube before ,but will need waste gate actuator repostioning or removing and waste gate held shut , i usually go for the latter
 
jamesmartin said:
a stretched spring makes a good waste gate holder
Click to expand...

lazy bodge and doesn't work correctly, a proper risk of overboosting :p

all you need to do is unbolt the actuator from the aluminium snail then carefully with a hammer handle (be careful not to push it too far in and damage the fins) in the outlet lift it to roughly the 1.30 - 2 o'clock position when looking from the front of the engine

pull the actuator mount back to the snail casing and mark through the bracket holes (felt tip or similar) , it might be easier if you unclip it from the lever (E-clip to remove)

very large circlip pliers to extract the retaining circlip (it's bloody huge and locks itself in) and wriggle the snail off

recheck your felt tip marks are correct by holding the actuator over them then carefully centre punch them

i then use my pillar drill to allow me a little more control drilling ready for tapping the threads, take your time and keep an eye on the depth of hole you drill (it's only 6 or 7mm deep from memory), some folks use an ordinary hand drill with the snail still on the rest of the turbo but i like to minimise the risk of mistakes being as i've got the tools, if you drill and tap the one hole first you can then bolt the actuator back on and then use a 6mm drill through the actuator to centre mark "exactly" where the second hole is drilled

i think the drill size you'll want will be 5.5mm to allow you to use an M6 tap (6x1.25 i think), test it all on a bit of scrap ally first so you get a feel for doing the job

i cannot empathise enough that you have to take your time tapping threads into ally as it will clog the tap

you also need two taps, one to start the threading process (a very tapered tap with almost no threads on the end, and a "blind hole" tap that has the threads all the way to the end to finish the job

and just to set the record straight, i'm NOT a trained engineer or anything remotely like, i have no fancy workshop, just lots of tools and the patience to think these jobs through along with a bit of web searching

i bought my circlip pliers from machine mart, 2 or 3 pairs in a cardboard/plastic box with interchangeable heads at a cost of roughly 25-30quid, bought them specifically to do this job, they're now on the shelf for a very long time they're that big

hope that helps
 
Many thanks for the replys, guys
James, Nitemare lots of good info there. thank you sir's

Ive have use of the works grit blaster, and by god does work :D
got 4 of my Lwb wheels done, so this weekend will be one of painting :)

Regards Chris.
 
NiteMare said:
lazy bodge and doesn't work correctly, a proper risk of overboosting :p

all you need to do is unbolt the actuator from the aluminium snail then carefully with a hammer handle (be careful not to push it too far in and damage the fins) in the outlet lift it to roughly the 1.30 - 2 o'clock position when looking from the front of the engine

pull the actuator mount back to the snail casing and mark through the bracket holes (felt tip or similar) , it might be easier if you unclip it from the lever (E-clip to remove)

very large circlip pliers to extract the retaining circlip (it's bloody huge and locks itself in) and wriggle the snail off

recheck your felt tip marks are correct by holding the actuator over them then carefully centre punch them

i then use my pillar drill to allow me a little more control drilling ready for tapping the threads, take your time and keep an eye on the depth of hole you drill (it's only 6 or 7mm deep from memory), some folks use an ordinary hand drill with the snail still on the rest of the turbo but i like to minimise the risk of mistakes being as i've got the tools, if you drill and tap the one hole first you can then bolt the actuator back on and then use a 6mm drill through the actuator to centre mark "exactly" where the second hole is drilled

i think the drill size you'll want will be 5.5mm to allow you to use an M6 tap (6x1.25 i think), test it all on a bit of scrap ally first so you get a feel for doing the job

i cannot empathise enough that you have to take your time tapping threads into ally as it will clog the tap

you also need two taps, one to start the threading process (a very tapered tap with almost no threads on the end, and a "blind hole" tap that has the threads all the way to the end to finish the job

and just to set the record straight, i'm NOT a trained engineer or anything remotely like, i have no fancy workshop, just lots of tools and the patience to think these jobs through along with a bit of web searching

i bought my circlip pliers from machine mart, 2 or 3 pairs in a cardboard/plastic box with interchangeable heads at a cost of roughly 25-30quid, bought them specifically to do this job, they're now on the shelf for a very long time they're that big

hope that helps
Click to expand...
no it isnt we arent talking about an evo or other performance engine ,its
not likely to over boost in any harmful way at all in a series motor with a tdi
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
no it isnt we arent talking about an evo or other performance engine ,its
not likely to over boost in any harmful way at all in a series motor with a tdi
Click to expand...

then if it wouldn't produce too much sustained boost then why would landrovers engine developers go to the expense of adding a wastegate and actuator ?? surely the beancounters wouldn't have allowed it ?

if i recall correctly the 200 runs on about .8bar and the 300 runs at 1bar

from very vague recollection you can turn the boost up to 1.2bar (maybe 1.4bar) as a usuable level but to start risking it being locked in at something like 2bar starts to push exhaust and head temperatures up to an unacceptable level for the longevity of the engine

risking too high a boost pressure is fine if you consider your engine to be a throwaway item but mine is a daily driver, i really could do with my engine lasting a while, there are only a finite number of 200tdi's out there being as they were only produced for 5 years and most of them are getting on towards 200k miles old now, another 5 years and how many good condition secondhand 200tdi's do you think you'll find ??
 
Evening all,

Cheers Owl, she should be a very useful tool once she done, I'm going to love the space inside, compaired to my rover metro it'll be heaven to have some head room and not feel like my arse 2 inches off the road.

Nitemare and James, I'm going to start on the turbo tomorrow inbetween letting paint dry, and Nitemare I know your not a "trained" engineer but you and alot of the other guys have far more experience than me and the other young guys so I thank you for your time and patience.

Well a bit more progress, as I said before Ive got 4 of my lwb wheels grit blasted (courtsey of work, cheers boss) and Ive had a semi lazy day painting them 2 coats of red ted so far.

also I've brought some high temperature paint for the block (red, an idea nicked from Logrover's blog, hope you don't mind
smiley.gif
) and black for the exhaust manifold which i've given one coat so far.

so more flatting down and painting tomoz.

Regards Chris
 
Last edited:
NiteMare said:
then if it wouldn't produce too much sustained boost then why would landrovers engine developers go to the expense of adding a wastegate and actuator ?? surely the beancounters wouldn't have allowed it ?

if i recall correctly the 200 runs on about .8bar and the 300 runs at 1bar

from very vague recollection you can turn the boost up to 1.2bar (maybe 1.4bar) as a usuable level but to start risking it being locked in at something like 2bar starts to push exhaust and head temperatures up to an unacceptable level for the longevity of the engine

risking too high a boost pressure is fine if you consider your engine to be a throwaway item but mine is a daily driver, i really could do with my engine lasting a while, there are only a finite number of 200tdi's out there being as they were only produced for 5 years and most of them are getting on towards 200k miles old now, another 5 years and how many good condition secondhand 200tdi's do you think you'll find ??
Click to expand...

And mine will boost to 40psi if you plant your foot down hard :D LR did that for a speed control feature
 
NiteMare said:
then if it wouldn't produce too much sustained boost then why would landrovers engine developers go to the expense of adding a wastegate and actuator ?? surely the beancounters wouldn't have allowed it ?

if i recall correctly the 200 runs on about .8bar and the 300 runs at 1bar

from very vague recollection you can turn the boost up to 1.2bar (maybe 1.4bar) as a usuable level but to start risking it being locked in at something like 2bar starts to push exhaust and head temperatures up to an unacceptable level for the longevity of the engine

risking too high a boost pressure is fine if you consider your engine to be a throwaway item but mine is a daily driver, i really could do with my engine lasting a while, there are only a finite number of 200tdi's out there being as they were only produced for 5 years and most of them are getting on towards 200k miles old now, another 5 years and how many good condition secondhand 200tdi's do you think you'll find ??
Click to expand...
dont want a long argument but just dont want people to worry about adjusting or removing waste gates on tdis, cos in reallity your not going to get excessive temps with a tdi that info which is around on the net is more to do with higher tuned cars ,im not saying anybody has too but can do with no worries unless your spending all day flat out on the motorway , i know dozens of tdis with locked waste gates ,lr engines fitted to defenders and series had to fit power wise to vehicle ability to handle it ,disco tdi had more power than def, if you want your engine to last ,service it regulary (i see more worn crank bearings than worn bores /rings)and dont pootle around in it they like work
 
Last edited:
i've just realised you're mounting this engine in a 109

now without me hunting through the preceding pages, is the engine sat in the chassis ??

which turbo have you got ?? (200 or 300)

have you attempted to mount the turbo if it's a 200 ??

due to the extra depth of 109 chassis rails over an 88" chassis rail, a 200 turbo requires that you either scallop the chassis rail or tilt the engine/gearbox for clearance

this is why i fitted the 300 turbo on my engine in my 109, i didn't want to cut the chassis or tilt the engine/box

the 300 turbo can be clocked but is more involved than the 200 and requires that you fabricate a bracket to carry the wastegate actuator, i didn't clock mine but would if i had need to be changing things in the future, the rubber/silicone 90 degree hose off the turbo has little space to fit in by the footwell support bracket so is slightly compressed

this hasn't been a problem as such in the last two years but i'd do it just to be "right"

oh and i don't "do" pootle, my 109 gets used for everything including towing, it's almost permanently carrying close on 100kilo of extra weight in the tub, whistles up and down the motorway as it's my daily without hanging about
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
just lift the engine a bit they are too front low anyhow,if you want to baffle me with bull**** go ahead
Click to expand...

i'm not interested in baffling with bull**** ta

i also lift my engines a little to help protect the crank from the inevitable meeting with the front axle, i've seen enough of other folks damaged keyways in the crank and timing gear
 
Hello,

I know it's been a while but hey ho, since my last post I've got a fair bit done mainly the 200tdi is in finally. Now a note regarding the engine, due to a lack of reddy's she's going be a 200di for a while because I havent got : A Intercooler, a oilcooler or the correct radiator also the turbo itself is almost seized soild, so she will run as a DI until the money jar fills again.


On a lighter note,

So the engine is in and painted, the timing belt is done. the sump been taken off, cleaned and refitted and the exhaust manifold painted.



The front propshaft dismantled, cleaned, painted and reassembled with new UJ's. The rear has had the same treatment just need assembling tomorrow.

I've also bought a second fuel tank and complete filler unit for £35. Both tanks have been cleaned up and primed so far, Black tomorrow. I welded a n/s front tank mounting on last weekend





Also the Lwb wheels have finally got painted in cream, clear coat tomorrow.



Many Regards Chris
 
Cheer's Blue, hopefully she should be powerful enough for what I want.
I've got the wheels clear coated, they look ok. but we'll see once their dried, also. I've got both of the fuel tanks into black gloss. Many Regards Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

robzimbo
Rhodesian Series 2a engine number mystery
2
Replies
24
Views
3K
robzimbo
robzimbo
A
Series 2a gearbox strip down, advice needed
Replies
4
Views
1K
Wildefalcon
W
DPG213
Series 1 109 Engine Conversion - 2.25p or 200DI
Replies
14
Views
3K
nickjaxe
N
P
Series 2a?
Replies
6
Views
825
6pot
6pot
L
Lucas 128SA rebuild/repair
Replies
4
Views
1K
Luca_d
L
Back
Top