110 TD5 won't start after Fuel Pressure Regulator replacement!!

Apologies if this topic has been covered elsewhere but searched the forums and couldn't find anything.

One day my 2001 110 TD5 (EU2) decided to dump a trail of diesel down our road - the neighbours were not best pleased! Diagnosed the problem to a 'leaking' FPR, tho at 4.0 bar was more akin to a small waterfall!

Before FPR leak:-
1. Engine started on the key, no problem, whether hot or cold.
2. Fuel pump had been replaced with a Bearmach item a few hundred miles previously, pumping strongly and quietly.
3. Injector seals had been replaced few hundred miles previously.
4. Fuel Filter replaced at service, again few hundred miles previously.
5. Strong battery

Basically the van was running sweetly.

Replaced the FPR with a new LR item, with new gasket and housing-to-head 'o' ring.

After FPR replacement a few weeks later:-
1. No more fuel leakage, sweet!
2. Started briefly on first turnover before I realised I'd need to purge but wouldn't rev and only lasted 5-10 seconds, so I suspect that was just the fuel left in the lines.
3. Fuel pump still pumping, now with the odd gurgle tho.
4. Tried the 'formal LR method' or purging air from system, as well as the 'informal 5-6 quick pumps of loud pedal after turning ignition to position II' method. Must have performed at least 5-6 separate purge cycles.
5. Can see and feel the FPR fuel inlet hose pulsing in time with pump, so fuel must be getting to it.
6. Battery weak after being stood for few weeks but using booster battery, so plenty of juice.
7. Starter turning over fine.
8. Glowplugs working fine, as are other electrics.
9. Immobiliser switched off.
10, Fuel in tank, although admittedly is in 'amber' zone.

Blasted thing just now won't fire up! Any suggestions from you knowledgeable folk would be appreciated!!

did you check filter behind fpr ,pump unit in tank may need filter screen cleaning

I didn't remove filter from behind FPR, just replaced the little 'o' ring in same recess. Only want to remove FPR again as a last resort!

The new pump only has couple hundred or so miles on it and was running sweetly, but do you think it might have sucked up some gunk from low fuel level and sent some particles to FPR fuel filter?

Just had a daft thought - the fuel cut-off inertia switch wouldn't need re-setting after a FPR replacement would it??

no it shouldnt ,ive had a few were pump need removing and unclipping and screen cleaned

It has been suggested that I try one of the following, as the problem may be down to an airlock within one/more of the the injectors. Either;

1. remove each injector feed hose in turn, pinching hose end and crank engine to expel air, then stop and re-connect hose as soon as fuel flows. Repeat for each injector in turn until engine starts.

Or,

2. loosen all injector feed hoses, crank engine to expel any air until fuel seeps out, then stop cranking, tighten all hoses and hopefully engine will re-start.

As I've not touched the injectors myself before, don't know whether injector hose unions can be loosened off or pinched - will consult Mr Haynes tonight!

Would appreciate any thoughts on above suggestions!?

hes not talking about a td5,so i wouldnt worry about that

LOL would love to see you remove the injector feed hoses on a TD5
As JM says he's talking about a different engine.

Which FPR have you got? Does it have an external fuel spill pipe? Are you sure that you fitted the correct gasket as they are different between the two FPRs but look the same once fitted. If you have an earlier FPR with internal fuel return the later gasket blocks off one of the FPR holes.

I did wonder...it's all a learning experience...

It's the earlier LR016319 with the internal fuel return for an EU2 engine. I've just checked again against the old parts and the additional new gaskets I bought for spares at same time (just in case...) are the correct MSX000010 for this FPR. All holes line up.

Just to correct my original post, point 5. should read 'Can see and feel the FPR fuel return hose pulsing in time with pump, so fuel must be getting to it.'

Just a thought - would it help purge any airlocks from the FPR/head a lot easier if I disconnected the FPR fuel return hose from the Fuel Cooler inlet, then run the fuel pump and catch fuel in a container, re-connecting when any air expelled. Might just help shift any stubborn airlocks if there's a shorter run for the fuel to escape to?? Any air then caught in re-connection of FPR fuel return hose to fuel cooler should then be easily expelled back through filter to tank?

I'm running out of ideas...off to do some more purging!!

It certainly wont make things any worse. Give it a go but be prepared as the fuel is shifted at quite a rapid rate.

SORTED!!

I didn't bother disconnecting the FPR fuel return hose and purging again, as the hose is short and space limited, so difficult to get a suitable container in place. Fuel would have ended up all over the shop!

However, discovered that I had HomeStart as part of my AA cover rolleyes! Chap turned up on his motorbike which I thought would be no good for a tow-start if needed! But with 2 booster batteries attached and a spray of some carb cleaner up the old air intake manifold whilst I turned it over, it reluctantly fired up! Been for a couple of spins this weekend and all seems well with the world again!

So an airlock in the fuel channels or injectors it t'was. Just needed a helping hand to get the injector cams going to purge the air out. Moral of the story is; always purge the fuel system of the air that gets locked in (unavoidable) during replacement of the FPR BEFORE trying to re-start the engine (or do a tow-start if you have the capability)! And buy a bigger booster battery and a can of carb cleaner to keep in the back as well.

Cheers to Shifty and James for your advice, much appreciated!

You're welcome! Glad its sorted.

I know this is an old thread, but after you do the 5 floor hits with the loud pedal to purge it for a couple of minutes, turn the ignition off, hold the loud pedal to the floor and crank it over, letting go once it fires. This tells the ECU its a fresh start and to purge the injectors themselves any expel any air in the body itself as it wont compress enough to pass thru the crack spring.

Same goes if you inadvertently run out of fuel.