110 Roof Removal and Refitting

sp00k · May 4, 2018

Search isn't working, so I'll ask and make people angry!

How hard is it to remove the roof and sides on a 110 hardtop? Can you remove them both together as one piece? How many bolts? How does it seal to the body? How heavy is it? How many people do you need to lift it off?

My wife just had a 50k convertible loan car whilst ours was being serviced. I want to show her that the Landy can be all things to all people!

I thought it might be an interesting exercise whilst the sun is shining to try it at some point. Also, I do have some occasional minor leaks around the waist line, so the seal could probably do with being replaced.

Final point, the seat belt anchors seem to be fixed to some flimsy looking brackets which run up the sides. They aren't going to work with the roof off - what is normally fitted in their place and can it remain fitted with the hardtop on.

lucifus · May 4, 2018

It’s easy. You can remove sides and roof together or it’s a lot easier to remove separately with 2 people. Seat belts won’t work without the roof unless you buy a roll bar with mounts.

The bolts should be easy for you to locate and undo with basic tools. You may find the corner ones break and need to be replaced if they are rusty.

lucifus · May 4, 2018

sp00k · May 4, 2018

Very nice Lucifus. Where did you buy the bars? They look class!

lucifus · May 4, 2018

They are from a small custom fabricator in Suffolk. Very sturdy and well made. A good price too.

sp00k · May 4, 2018

Would you mind PMing me his details? Thanks.

Trench Rat · May 4, 2018

I'm really keen on taking the roof and doors off of my 2a for the summer, however i believe that the previous owner has used a silicon sealant to make the roof permanant.

lucifus · May 4, 2018

https://m.facebook.com/Purely-Metal-100852963388487/ This is the guy. Photos in the album.

lucifus · May 4, 2018

I’m sure silicon can come apart right?

Trench Rat · May 4, 2018

lucifus said:
I’m sure silicon can come apart right?

Yeah of course, there's solutions to get rid of it. He also sealed the front vents shut.

So i'm going to roast in the summer

My only apprehension is that maybe he was right to do so and my dash fills with water along with my tub (at least more than usual).

sp00k · May 4, 2018

Cut as much sealant as possible with a Stanley knife. Sounds like you need new vent seals or windscreen seal.

Trench Rat · May 4, 2018

sp00k said:
Cut as much sealant as possible with a Stanley knife. Sounds like you need new vent seals or windscreen seal.

That was the plan, stanley knife my way through it. Might leave it for this year though, the leak is minimal after i touched up the bits on the side windows. It's coming in on the pillars but currently she's under a cover as she's not being driven. Finding the time to do the rubber around the roof will be a pain too but i intend on getting it done relatively soon.

Didn't know it was a seal issue, thanks for that, still pretty new to this. I'll look at getting some for the vents

sp00k · May 4, 2018

The bulkhead vent seals are easy to do, so try that first. They glue on with contact cement. The water literally used to run through my dash until I replaced them and it's totally dry now.

vasimone · Jul 8, 2018

Hey guys!

As I am rebuilding Wheely following a complete respray I put the seals between roof and bulk head/windscreen frame (as per pic) BUT:

when I tight the roof completely with the nuts and bolts there is still a big gap between windscreen frame and roof (see pic)
the seal between bulkhead and windscreen frame is rather loose

What could be the reason for that?

This is the last hurdle before the Landy is completely rebuild and can finally take it for a ride

thanks for your support!

neilly · Jul 8, 2018

Are you sure it is not the very thick paint causing it to hold off?

Cheers

vasimone · Jul 8, 2018

yeah can't be the paint - there is too much space for it to be because of it...

The roof should be well aligned as I have already fixed the back of it and it all went smoothly, so I was thinking either:

1-it is the new seal which is very thick
2-I should loose all the bolts between roof and body and fit all of them more gradually
3-something happened in the 2 weeks that the roof was detached from the body - can it have bent as it was being supported by two wheels at the front/rear ends of the roof which is 5 meters long (Wheely it's 3 axle) so the middle section which wasn't supported messed up the shape of it? I'd think unlikely but could be an alternative
4- ???

I would have thought that when the roof to the windscreen frame was tighten up also the seal between windscreen frame to bulkhead would have tighten up from being so loose now...

grateful for your thoughts

mick the builder · Jul 8, 2018

I have the exact same gap at both ends of the screen frame to roof. Probably end up putting a bead of black sealant along the whole length.

vasimone · Jul 8, 2018

wow but it's massive - do you also have the same gap in the windscreen to bulkhead seal? i can easily move it up/down... before taking it off for the paint-job the seal was all nice and tight and the roof was way closer - see pic attached

vasimone · Jul 9, 2018

Guys - this morning I took off the bolts and nuts from roof and hinges and tried again fitting it - but this time i fitted first the roof and later the hinge - so now the roof is way closer but the space between the bulkhead and windscreen frame is even greater

Do you guys normally fit first the hinge between bulkhead and windscreen frame or first the roof to the windscreen frame? There must be something I am doing wrong...

mick the builder · Jul 10, 2018

I haven't a photo but the rubber all along the front edge is compressed .it's the two ends that seem to have a different radius to the windscreen frame and there's nothing in the corner to pull it down. I'm hoping the inner seal will provide a water tight seal. If that fails it's either sealant or a thicker neoprene seal.

110 Roof Removal and Refitting

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