110 rear floor join.

Duncydoo · Oct 21, 2018

Evening all

Long time since last post but long time no fender. Just got a new 110 (95 CSW 300tdi) and well into pulling her apart. So far I’ve stripped pretty much everything back from the front seats and getting ready to put new parts back in.
Question that I can’t find the answer to (may be on here but search function seams to have died)
What’s the best way to join the rear tub floor center and two wing parts that go out to the door?
(I know picture would help but can’t work out how to up load from my phone)

Al2O3 · Oct 22, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Evening all

Long time since last post but long time no fender. Just got a new 110 (95 CSW 300tdi) and well into pulling her apart. So far I’ve stripped pretty much everything back from the front seats and getting ready to put new parts back in.
Question that I can’t find the answer to (may be on here but search function seams to have died)
What’s the best way to join the rear tub floor center and two wing parts that go out to the door?
(I know picture would help but can’t work out how to up load from my phone)

Yeah a picture would help, but you can't upload pics at the mo cos the website is carped.
The edge of the floor is spot welded to the seem lip of the wings. To get the floor out you have to drill out the spot welds. I pop riveted my new one back in. Is that what you mean?

Flossie · Oct 22, 2018

As above, if not sure what you mean either.
On the station wagon, from memory, the floor is a simple rectangular sheet from rear safari door to near the end of the forward edge of the wheel boxes. A sort of ''T" shape piece of floor closes off the remaining floor and attachs to the upstand which supports the 2nd row floor plate.
The lot is spot welded together as said but blind rivits can be used.
I re made all my floors out of chequered plate but I didn't copy exactly the landrover method but improved it with less joins and what not.

Duncydoo · Oct 22, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Yeah a picture would help, but you can't upload pics at the mo cos the website is carped.
The edge of the floor is spot welded to the seem lip of the wings. To get the floor out you have to drill out the spot welds. I pop riveted my new one back in. Is that what you mean?

Thanks for the reply and for the update on the website.
Floor is all out (together with everything that was under it..) new parts ready to go in. I have a new 2nd row floor and the upstand to the rear tub height. The floor from the upstand back has come in three parts. One rectangle that runs the length between the wheel arches and then two separate sections that go from the edge of the wheel arch to the c pillar (also being replaced). These two sections bolt to the c pillar and are riveted to the slope of the wheel arch and to the floor support beam.

So after all of that what I can’t work out is the best way to join the big rectangle and the two wing bits where they but up against each other?

Long winded I know but a picture vs words and all that.
Really want to do this properly while I have the luxury of not needing it on the road.

Duncydoo · Oct 22, 2018

Flossie said:
As above, if not sure what you mean either.
On the station wagon, from memory, the floor is a simple rectangular sheet from rear safari door to near the end of the forward edge of the wheel boxes. A sort of ''T" shape piece of floor closes off the remaining floor and attachs to the upstand which supports the 2nd row floor plate.
The lot is spot welded together as said but blind rivits can be used.
I re made all my floors out of chequered plate but I didn't copy exactly the landrover method but improved it with less joins and what not.

Yep I can’t spot weld so it’s going to have to be rivets. Not sure I’m up for making my own floor but the chequered plate must make it solid as a rock and yes does away with the joint issue of the T shape.

mick 1986 · Oct 22, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Thanks for the reply and for the update on the website.
Floor is all out (together with everything that was under it..) new parts ready to go in. I have a new 2nd row floor and the upstand to the rear tub height. The floor from the upstand back has come in three parts. One rectangle that runs the length between the wheel arches and then two separate sections that go from the edge of the wheel arch to the c pillar (also being replaced). These two sections bolt to the c pillar and are riveted to the slope of the wheel arch and to the floor support beam.

So after all of that what I can’t work out is the best way to join the big rectangle and the two wing bits where they but up against each other?

Long winded I know but a picture vs words and all that.
Really want to do this properly while I have the luxury of not needing it on the road.

I’m using sealed pop rivers and seam sealer to replace my floor, upstand, and light clusters.

Flossie · Oct 22, 2018

So they butt up with no swage over lap?
A thickish strip of metal underneath as a joiner then maybe?

Duncydoo · Oct 22, 2018

Flossie said:
So they butt up with no swage over lap?
A thickish strip of metal underneath as a joiner then maybe?

Yep butt up no over lap. Got plenty of left over Ali sheet having taken out the floor. Think I’ll do as you say and just lay a strip under and rivet it in. If site is working again I’ll mind and put up some photos.

Sealed rivets, great idea. Trying to find a stealant that stays mailable just now but will be doing the same. Trying to avoid silicone and dodge any paint issues, don’t want to glue it just in case...

mick 1986 · Oct 23, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Yep butt up no over lap. Got plenty of left over Ali sheet having taken out the floor. Think I’ll do as you say and just lay a strip under and rivet it in. If site is working again I’ll mind and put up some photos.

Sealed rivets, great idea. Trying to find a stealant that stays mailable just now but will be doing the same. Trying to avoid silicone and dodge any paint issues, don’t want to glue it just in case...

I started using tiger seal, but there was something wrong with my second tube and it’s set solid in the tube. I have only used around 1/4 of that tube. I went and bought 2 tubes of black stixall. I will be using that on every seam the tub has. I don’t know if it stays flexible, but it seals brilliantly!

Duncydoo · Oct 23, 2018

mick 1986 said:
I started using tiger seal, but there was something wrong with my second tube and it’s set solid in the tube. I have only used around 1/4 of that tube. I went and bought 2 tubes of black stixall. I will be using that on every seam the tub has. I don’t know if it stays flexible, but it seals brilliantly!

Anything to try and keep the water out!! Have been looking about and spoke with a couple of local garages and they have sujested a foam tape were two sheets over lap. With something as you sujest for any joints or vertical seams.

Thanks again to everyone for the responses.

mick 1986 · Oct 23, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Anything to try and keep the water out!! Have been looking about and spoke with a couple of local garages and they have sujested a foam tape were two sheets over lap. With something as you sujest for any joints or vertical seams.

Thanks again to everyone for the responses.

I have used closed cell neoprene foam sheets, 1mm and 3mm thick, on every metal to metal joint so far on my rebuild. The places where 2 pieces of metal are welded and can’t easily be opened, bulkhead seams for example, have been coated in seam sealer. The tub will have foam gaskets on all the support work, and seam sealer over the top. It will be visible due to the way I’m painting it, but I have a mat to go over the top.

Duncydoo · Oct 24, 2018

mick 1986 said:
I have used closed cell neoprene foam sheets, 1mm and 3mm thick, on every metal to metal joint so far on my rebuild. The places where 2 pieces of metal are welded and can’t easily be opened, bulkhead seams for example, have been coated in seam sealer. The tub will have foam gaskets on all the support work, and seam sealer over the top. It will be visible due to the way I’m painting it, but I have a mat to go over the top.

Sounds like the path I’m going down. Did watch a vid where they masked the joints with tape and then put the sealer over. You could clearly see the seam sealer after tape was removed but it had nice crisp edges. What seam sealer are you using?

Guess it’s the way we all do it, as in we’re going to all the effort so we all want to get the very best result we can. Goes to show there are many ways to skin a cat and all that (not that cat skinning is anything I have expirience in....)
Sure all these rebuilds will end with a better build quality than original. Not many vehicles that can be said for.
So nice to have a landy again!!

mick 1986 · Oct 24, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Sounds like the path I’m going down. Did watch a vid where they masked the joints with tape and then put the sealer over. You could clearly see the seam sealer after tape was removed but it had nice crisp edges. What seam sealer are you using?

Guess it’s the way we all do it, as in we’re going to all the effort so we all want to get the very best result we can. Goes to show there are many ways to skin a cat and all that (not that cat skinning is anything I have expirience in....)
Sure all these rebuilds will end with a better build quality than original. Not many vehicles that can be said for.
So nice to have a landy again!!

Yes I hope mine is better than a “new” defender. I would like it to be passed to my kids when I’m gone, but who knows what Diesel engines will still be around in 30 years time?

Was that seam sealer video “Brett from down under”? I have seen that video, and I prefer the look of a seamed joint using a wet finger.

I will be using the tiger seal I have left if I can get any out, if not, stixall is the choice!

Duncydoo · Oct 24, 2018

mick 1986 said:
Yes I hope mine is better than a “new” defender. I would like it to be passed to my kids when I’m gone, but who knows what Diesel engines will still be around in 30 years time?

Was that seam sealer video “Brett from down under”? I have seen that video, and I prefer the look of a seamed joint using a wet finger.

I will be using the tiger seal I have left if I can get any out, if not, stixall is the choice!

Yea think that might have been the vid.
I’m the same as you having had a landy and parted with it this one is staying in the family and hope the kids will use it (that’s some 10 years away) one day.

One thing to be aware of with the sealant. Depending what paint you may or may not be using silicone is a killer and a lot of paints won’t stick to it.
Having spent too much time looking into this apparently for those permanent seals (bulkhead etc) Polysulphide Sealant is a good solution. This stuff is what I think I’ll be getting when I finally get to fitting stuff back in.
https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/Geocel-201-polymer-mastic-sealant

So far I seam to have spent an age getting high in etch primer and glass flake paint. Everything is galvanised but figure do it once, do it right. Galv only last so long and a layer of to of paint could add 5-10 years to the parts life.

mick 1986 · Oct 24, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Yea think that might have been the vid.
I’m the same as you having had a landy and parted with it this one is staying in the family and hope the kids will use it (that’s some 10 years away) one day.

One thing to be aware of with the sealant. Depending what paint you may or may not be using silicone is a killer and a lot of paints won’t stick to it.
Having spent too much time looking into this apparently for those permanent seals (bulkhead etc) Polysulphide Sealant is a good solution. This stuff is what I think I’ll be getting when I finally get to fitting stuff back in.
https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/Geocel-201-polymer-mastic-sealant

So far I seam to have spent an age getting high in etch primer and glass flake paint. Everything is galvanised but figure do it once, do it right. Galv only last so long and a layer of to of paint could add 5-10 years to the parts life.

I haven’t gone for everything galved, mainly because of costs. I’m up around £7K at the minute. The chassis and bulkhead are both galved. All of the new floor supports and structural steelwork is galved. Some of the brackets appear galved already.

The stixall has been used by people before. They didn’t report any reaction. The tiger seal did react to the black 2K I used, but when reading the instructions (after the reaction) it says to leave for 30mins to “skin off” before painting. I waited around 10-15mins if I was lucky.

I stripped the tub today. There isn’t a great deal to it to be honest. More of a mess around than hard work. I would advise anyone to do it on the floor, or as close if they can get. I stripped it around 3’ off the floor on some trestles I made. It wasn’t good when the first side came off and both tub sides dropped off the top of the supported pieces of wood. Never mind, live and learn.

Duncydoo · Oct 24, 2018

mick 1986 said:
I haven’t gone for everything galved, mainly because of costs. I’m up around £7K at the minute. The chassis and bulkhead are both galved. All of the new floor supports and structural steelwork is galved. Some of the brackets appear galved already.

The stixall has been used by people before. They didn’t report any reaction. The tiger seal did react to the black 2K I used, but when reading the instructions (after the reaction) it says to leave for 30mins to “skin off” before painting. I waited around 10-15mins if I was lucky.

I stripped the tub today. There isn’t a great deal to it to be honest. More of a mess around than hard work. I would advise anyone to do it on the floor, or as close if they can get. I stripped it around 3’ off the floor on some trestles I made. It wasn’t good when the first side came off and both tub sides dropped off the top of the supported pieces of wood. Never mind, live and learn.

Omg!! Yea I’m sitting a 2k at the mo but had been told it needed that on welding/ patching of the body alone. Was lucky it was a galv chassis already and bulkhead is just needing the foot wells done so I’ll just patch them. Been getting the parts from Yrm metals. Great stuff and good value. Most of there stuff is galv so figure I’m just taking my time. No advert for them but they have been really good about checking orders and advising of changes. Saved me about £200 so far.

Good to know about the sealant paint results will have another look and see if I can save some pennies.

mick 1986 · Oct 25, 2018

Duncydoo said:
Omg!! Yea I’m sitting a 2k at the mo but had been told it needed that on welding/ patching of the body alone. Was lucky it was a galv chassis already and bulkhead is just needing the foot wells done so I’ll just patch them. Been getting the parts from Yrm metals. Great stuff and good value. Most of there stuff is galv so figure I’m just taking my time. No advert for them but they have been really good about checking orders and advising of changes. Saved me about £200 so far.

Good to know about the sealant paint results will have another look and see if
I can save some pennies.

YRM are only 5-6 miles from my house. I pop in as and when I can. They are very friendly and will quite happily give advise as and when they can.

If you are removing the bulkhead to do the welding, I would advise you look for a recon galv unit. I paid £850 for mine. Some people will pay around £400-500 for a bulkhead that needs foot wells repairing, so if that’s all yours needs, it may work out very well for you.

I will let you know if my paint reacts with the stixall. Hopefully I will get some paint applied today, if not, it won’t be until next week as I’m working the next 4 days.

Duncydoo · Nov 4, 2018

mick 1986 said:
YRM are only 5-6 miles from my house. I pop in as and when I can. They are very friendly and will quite happily give advise as and when they can.

If you are removing the bulkhead to do the welding, I would advise you look for a recon galv unit. I paid £850 for mine. Some people will pay around £400-500 for a bulkhead that needs foot wells repairing, so if that’s all yours needs, it may work out very well for you.

I will let you know if my paint reacts with the stixall. Hopefully I will get some paint applied today, if not, it won’t be until next week as I’m working the next 4 days.

They are great. Will use them again but bit far for me just to pop in.
Not sure I’ll be doing the bulk head just now. Might look at it in a year or so. Just going to patch the footwells in situ just now.

How’s yours coming along? Managed to get some paint on?

Got all my parts painted, finally!! And started laying up everything in the rear. So nice to have parts going back on the car!!! Mid x member in, body mountings, new rear seat brackets (had just been bodged previously).

mick 1986 · Nov 5, 2018

Duncydoo said:
They are great. Will use them again but bit far for me just to pop in.
Not sure I’ll be doing the bulk head just now. Might look at it in a year or so. Just going to patch the footwells in situ just now.

How’s yours coming along? Managed to get some paint on?

Got all my parts painted, finally!! And started laying up everything in the rear. So nice to have parts going back on the car!!! Mid x member in, body mountings, new rear seat brackets (had just been bodged previously).

All of the body panels are painted, but I need to go over the inside edge of the roof as I’m not happy with it, and redo the rear tub, so I still have some bits to be getting on with.

Hopefully it will be back on the road in 2018, but unless the chassis turns up in the next few weeks, that’s unlikely.

110 rear floor join.

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