110 drivetrain heavy resistance.

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1

109inches

Well-Known Member
Posts
644
Location
Devon
So I'm really getting through all the faults on this Land Rover but I've now got a strange one.

It came out the barn about two weeks ago after being there for a few months whilst I welded the bulkhead.

But I decided to take it up the drive to make sure the clutch and gears and everything was okay.

First thing is I think it's stuck in 4wd I jacked up a rear wheel and chocked the front but one front and one rear wheel span it had say for seven years before I got it although it wasn't left in diff lock.

The second one is heavy resistance somewhere. In first gear high range at idle it sets off fine, you get about 5 metres and the engine starts rattling and rpm starts dropping as if the brakes are being pressed when you push the clutch down it comes to a stop very quickly. None of the brakes are binding all oils were changed, and all propshafts have been greased. I'm thinking transmission wind up as its stuck on 4wd but I'm going in a straight line. If you accelerate to keep the engine from stalling the whole vehicle shakes and vibrates violently and it feels like there is a lot of stress on a component and like something will shear or break. It didn't do this before it went in the barn. All the wheels rotate freely, the speed I went up the drive is about 5 mph so not enough for wheel imbalance or propshaft vibration to show through
 
It's permanent 4wd so what your referring to is diff lock

Jack up one wheel, a front is fine (if a rear take the hand brake off)

If that wheel spins freely then difflock is NOT engaged, if it doesn't spin or moves a bit and stops then difflock is engaged. If this is the case take it out of difflock, drive up and down the drive (both forward and in reverse) the. Repeat the above procedure

Report back
 
Yes diff lock is what I meant. I had tried that but a wheel on the front and rear span when I had only the rear jacked up and with the diff lock lever to the right out of diff lock. Unfortunately the wiring to the diff lock light is long gone so can't use that as a measure.

However when I drive back and forth the wheel I jack up doesn't unwind like the transmission has wound itself up so I don't know if transmission wind up is the cause of the vibration and resistance. I will try that a couple of time and see what happens
 
How did you spin a front wheel if you only had one off the floor?

To test whether in or out of difflock you need to have 3 wheels on the ground and one in the air.

So are you stuck in difflock? Have you looked at the linkages to see if the lever is actually connected to anything?
 
because it is locked in difflock. I had jacked the rear offside wheel up, all other wheels where in firm contact with the ground. I chocked both front wheels and then moved forward in first gear with difflock disengaged and the rear jacked up wheel span and so did one of the front ones that were chocked.
the lever is connected and all external mechanisms are moving in relation to the lever.
 
Sorry I meant doing the rear wheel by hand with the engine off

Sounds like your stuck in difflock though, maybe something internal won't unengage.

Have you tried selecting difflock, driving forward 10m or so then unselecting difflock and reversing about the same.
 
Easy way to check if it is in diff lock is to jack one front wheel up with the handbrake on, if you can spin the wheel by hand its not locked, if only 1/2 turn or so then it is.
 
I have but I was comparing the transfer box to my 1991 defender and it looks different. I was told it had a higher gear set from ashcrofts about 10 years ago I don't think these casings differed though? It's not a discovery transfer box I'm certain. It is a very early 110 a 1984 I don't know if the transfer box design was still being perfected.

However I tried testing a different way by doing a full lock turn and looking out for signs of tyre scrub and there was no signs of the front axle fighting the back.

I did however solve the vibrating issue and resistance. The nuts that hold the hand brake cable to the bracket were loose so as the gearbox mounts moved it would start applying the hand brake. I guess the other way I could definitely test is to remove a propshaft and with the diff lock unlocked see if I move or not.
 
And yes if I jack each individual wheel up they all only turn a little bit then lock. So seems to be locked. Can't really do any other tests hoping when I get a bit more done I can take it in the field and really get all the oil thrown around inside the box to see if that helps unseize anything
 
109inches said:
And yes if I jack each individual wheel up they all only turn a little bit then lock. So seems to be locked. Can't really do any other tests hoping when I get a bit more done I can take it in the field and really get all the oil thrown around inside the box to see if that helps unseize anything
Click to expand...
Take it you dont have any axle lockers, eg Detroit, in that?
 
I will try activating it with a spanner, it's not the 4 speed, it's an lt77 and lt230, used to be a 2.5na now a 200tdi.

But I am surprised it's winding up as the drive is dead straight and so all the wheels are travelling the same distance. And when I did do a truth on full lock on Tarmac there was no tyre scrub.
 
waldamar said:
weird........................
Click to expand...

+1 - something very strange is going on here...

what happens if you put the transfer box in neutral, and accelerate thru the gears ?? does the main gearbox "behave" ?
Can you tow the thing in transfer neutral with something small that will loose traction if the landy gets tight - what I am thinking here is tow it with a 7HP lawn tractor, not some 300HP Fendt !!

Or if there is an incline you could roll down, slowly...

this might tie it down to the transfer box, and you might have a failed bearing, (anything in the oil ?)
 
109inches said:
So I'm really getting through all the faults on this Land Rover but I've now got a strange one.

It came out the barn about two weeks ago after being there for a few months whilst I welded the bulkhead.

But I decided to take it up the drive to make sure the clutch and gears and everything was okay.

First thing is I think it's stuck in 4wd I jacked up a rear wheel and chocked the front but one front and one rear wheel span it had say for seven years before I got it although it wasn't left in diff lock.

The second one is heavy resistance somewhere. In first gear high range at idle it sets off fine, you get about 5 metres and the engine starts rattling and rpm starts dropping as if the brakes are being pressed when you push the clutch down it comes to a stop very quickly. None of the brakes are binding all oils were changed, and all propshafts have been greased. I'm thinking transmission wind up as its stuck on 4wd but I'm going in a straight line. If you accelerate to keep the engine from stalling the whole vehicle shakes and vibrates violently and it feels like there is a lot of stress on a component and like something will shear or break. It didn't do this before it went in the barn. All the wheels rotate freely, the speed I went up the drive is about 5 mph so not enough for wheel imbalance or propshaft vibration to show through
Click to expand...
try it with vacuum hose pulled out of servo
 
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