110 drivetrain heavy resistance.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
It rolls fine as two people can push it a fair while.
Gearbox all behaves fine as I had it in low range and went through all the gears. Transfer box works in high and low.
Don't think vacuum would be the issue as there is no fluid in the brake system as I'm waiting for a flexi.
I will take some pictures of the transfer box as it seems different.
One thing that is different with it compared to other lt230's is the diff lock lever clicks when moving left to right as tho it's activating a switch. Now in other lt230's you move the lever and the switch activation is silent. The lever is also bent over to the diff lock side. It doesn't look bent by force but bent on purpose.
 
Might be an idea to check the vacuum system tho, as JM suggested....

I would have thought you would be able to hear that causing problems tho, even in a tratter:D
 
It's a weird one can only see if it frees itself when driving when I've got brakes. If not I'll have to look at the centre diff
 
Thats not good
Coffeelandy said:
I think the diff lock is still on.
Click to expand...
if you lift one wheel and can't turn it, but if yu lift 2 wheels, yu can turn them, then the drive train is locked.
Difflock would give that symptom.

If yu lift one front and one rear wheel and turning one turns the other that deffo means the transfer box is locked.
 
Found the issue.

Things are a little different on this transfer box to others which was causing my problems.

The mechanism is slightly different, same design but a little different which made it feel as tho there was positive movement on the diff lock lever left to right.

But what has happened is on the front output housing where there should be a droplet shaped bracket that turns the left and right movement at the lever to a circular motion has vanished.

I could see the linkage moving from underneath and felt positive movement and force on the diff lock lever so assumed it was working.

I bit the bullet and took the gearbox tunnel off which is a bit of a faff on the early 110 station wagons as they are carpeted inside with stuck on carpet. The Land Rover did come with the easy clean mounded interior which I prefer, the brown carpet is horrid.

However it is odd that there was no tyre scrub on full lock. Hopefully this solves some problems.

As the bracket has broken does anyone have a part number and know if they are still produced from somewhere like paddocks?
Or if someone has a scrap transfer box and has the bracket it would be helpful.
Thanks for all the suggestions, at least it's not expensive and th vehicle can remain in roughly one piece.
 
109inches said:
It won't lift up the movement is left and right not up and down. If some can provide an exploded diagram for the area on an lt230 it would be easier to explain
Click to expand...
not wishing to disagree with you (after all you have the vehicle). On mine the operating shaft has two flats on it that the operating lever sits over. there is then a clamp nut that holds it on place. maybe yours has jammed down. Try fitting a washer and nut on the top and levering it up.....

upload_2016-2-27_19-6-41.png
 
I will look in the morning. I did not see two flats but it was getting dark I will look tomorrow.
However I still new the cranked bracket that connects the lever to the flat sided stud
 
Wasn't as severe but recently had similar symptoms. Turned out when I had put gearbox back in I hadn't bolted handbrake outer cable up the rear of where handbrake is mounted. Caused handbrake to stick on, lots of resistance and juddering.

Thought a prop was about to fly off
 
If only things were simple. So got a 10mm spanner on the diff lock mechanism and no matter what position it is in it won't unlock.

Tried it in every position numerous time and then drive up and down in that position numerous times both forward and reverse then jacked up a wheel and it still won't rotate more than half a turn.

The mechanism is definitely contacted to the fork that operates the diff lock as I can feel it click in to place and the mechanism rotates pretty smooth and free.

Can't do anything until mid week when my front flexi arrives and then I can bleed the brakes. After that I can take it in the field off-road and see if I can get some oil thrown up and the gearbox hot to see if that unseizes whatever is stuck.

Failing that I will have to strip or swap transfer boxes. Which I might do anyway for a standard defender 1.4 box rather than the 1.2 that's on it depends how the engine pulls the gearing.

Also thanks mad hat man for tracking down the bit I needed.
 
109inches said:
If only things were simple. So got a 10mm spanner on the diff lock mechanism and no matter what position it is in it won't unlock.

Tried it in every position numerous time and then drive up and down in that position numerous times both forward and reverse then jacked up a wheel and it still won't rotate more than half a turn.

The mechanism is definitely contacted to the fork that operates the diff lock as I can feel it click in to place and the mechanism rotates pretty smooth and free.

Can't do anything until mid week when my front flexi arrives and then I can bleed the brakes. After that I can take it in the field off-road and see if I can get some oil thrown up and the gearbox hot to see if that unseizes whatever is stuck.

Failing that I will have to strip or swap transfer boxes. Which I might do anyway for a standard defender 1.4 box rather than the 1.2 that's on it depends how the engine pulls the gearing.

Also thanks mad hat man for tracking down the bit I needed.
Click to expand...
many levers have a detent spring in the hi/lo housing on gearbox top (same spring as used in series g/box 3rd/4th selector hubs) which can feel like engagement ,if spigot on t/box is moved with a spanner anti clockwise fully it should disengage diff lock ,the switch behind the spigot if wound in too far can stop diff lock been engaged or disengaged, it also helps to have a wheel up as diff lock wont want to do either if theres a turning pressure between both axles, but even so been in diff lock shouldnt really show much symptoms apart from full lock, if you have heavy resistance you must have another issue too
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dave evans
110 drivetrain ?
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
boguing
boguing
J
Clutch failure
Replies
5
Views
400
dag019
dag019
D
What IS this noise ?
Replies
12
Views
880
dogdog1
D
seg
Vibration noise and not smooth running
Replies
7
Views
578
1988smithy
1988smithy
dconnrt
80's 110 - Braking pulling to the right in wet conditions
Replies
5
Views
530
dconnrt
dconnrt
Back
Top