110 defender rebuild project and v8 conversion

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The other thing I should mention is that landy paint is bloomin thin! More work with the 240 to get more scratches per inch isn't an option, as you'd burn through the paint in seconds.
 
Looking good Farmershort, I usually flat any panels to 600g prior to painting, starting lower if they're in bad shape.
High build primer and then flat back with 600g wet and dry (wet)
Any repairs/filler, I generally start with 120g, working up through the grades, 240, 320, 400 and finish with 600.
You will most likely need to use stopper (which is a very fine filler) on top of that to remove any dimples or air bubbles within the original filler process.
 
Cheers for the input Aaron!

I've not done anything with filler yet, and never used the stuff properly before. Do you have any favourite brands?

I'm stating at the moment that I'm not going to go mad with filler on this project, as its going to be a farm landy at the end of all of this... I see no point getting a perfectly ripple free finish when "close up", as the "zoomed out" look of any panel from Solihull always has waves/ripples in it (tub sides mainly of course).

Of course, it's possible that I might just get a bit sucked in by the process and end up changing that outlook :)
 
My panel wipe arrived today so I managed to prep the panel and get some green thrown at during my lunch break.

20160307_135755.jpg


Obviously it doesn't look like much, and this is a very very basic test, but it's nice to see the final colour for the first time :)
 
What did you decide to do about the steering column/power steering? I now have an adequate number of axles and gearboxes, and bought an engine on Friday, so I'll soon be able to draw the chassis mods properly and get it ordered. I'm thinking about using the std LR box driven by the Fiat column we talked about, mainly because it's an easy way to solve the height changes as compared with playing with a rack. The weight of the std box makes me cringe a bit though. Just starting to think it through really, so wondered where you were with it.
 
Boguing.. I think you might have the wrong thread ;)

Managed to get the roof outside for some advanced weathering! Haven't had a dry daylight moment yet to check the fine detail of the finish.

20160309_083901.jpg
 
That doesn't look bad mr farmershort.
Are you able to flat back the enamel paint and polish if needed?
Although gun set up could be the cause of the orange peel, i.e air pressure too high. I would have a play with the settings and see if anything changes.
 
I think air pressure is deffo a factor what I've read about synthetic enamel. I spraid through the regulated feed at about 40psi ish, but this might be too high for this paint.

Apparently you can't flat back enamel top coat, because it takes up to 6 years tocure fully.
 
Never used enamel so I can't advise too much, but 40psi sounds high, I would think more like 30ish.
Easy to have a play if you have a little regulator on the bottom of your gun.
Cellulose is meant to be similar in that if you flat back and polish it effectively seals the surface and it never dries out, or so I'm told any way.
 
Quick question on gearbox fitting (which I'm prepping for at the moment), is the following correct?

1) bottom plate bit is fitted after gearbox is joined to engine?

2) sealant is applied to mating faces?

Thanks

Adam
 
We had 3 adults and 4 children coming to stay with us as of about 3pm on saturday afternoon, so not much was achieved on the landy front this weekend... we don't have any kids of our own yet, so it's always an eye opener when they come to stay!

I had ambitious plans to fit the gearbox (finally) and get a coat of acid etch on the bulkhead. Clearly this would have been too much like realy progress, so the landy gods gave me another challenge.... I had the gearboxes in the air, and was just fitting the slave cyl ready to mount the whole lot onto the engine. The lower of the 2 slave cylinder bolts (m8x25mm) then decided to strip the thread out of the ally housing... nothing to do with brute force, or my torque wrench this time! The bolt go to the point where it was just touching the split washer (so not yet compressing) and it went. The other bolt went in very nicely indeed.

So, boxes back on the floor, slave cyl removed, and a helicoiling kit ordered.... I was a bit daft not to order one at the outset of the project really.

Anyone know the answer to the questions above?
 
Man hands on misery to man
It deepens like a coastal shelf
Get out as early as you can
And don't have any kids yourself.
as Philip Larkin put it.
 
ginmocny said:
Just finished reading. Took me 4 hours to read all of it. One thing to say: Farmershort hats off! Well impressed.
Click to expand...

Well thanks for those nice words, and for taking the time to read it all!

I feel like progress has really slowed recently. I've got 2 weeks leave at easter so I'm planning on having a fair few full days in the garage to move things along a bit faster. There's only so much you can do on dark winters' evenings.

jobs still *almost* ready to be done:

  • Fit that bloody gearbox!
  • Fit fuel tank (was just waiting for the compressor to be properly set-up for dinitrol treatment of the underside)
  • Paint bulkhead
  • Prep & paint seatbox
  • Lay chassis mounted fuel & brake lines

I dream of a time when I'm not listening out for couriers knocking the door.
 
Tried to fit the gearbox tonight... Failed.

If goes up nicely till about a 5mm gap. No amount of wiggling will make it mate. I out some grease in the spigot bearing, and it deffo gets pushed back some way, so I think the input shaft is going in.

What a pain in the arse...

20160316_191505.jpg
20160316_170722.jpg
 
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