110 CSW 1992 rear axle shock absorber?

Shanec · Feb 14, 2016

Hi

I was underneath today trying to grease the rear most UJ and found there was no nipple or bolt! Dont understand.

Anyway, so whilst under there I noticed I have this big shock absorber looking thing attached to the axle and chassis. I cant find this for sale on the internet so do not know what it is?

I suspect it is something to do with having humans sitting in the rear of the vehicle, but whats its name and how to test if its working OK?

Not seen anything like it before!

Litch · Feb 14, 2016

Not certain why you think there should be a bolt fitted to the UJ but if it is because you can see an open thread then yes, that is because the grease-nipple is missing. How long has it been missing and has the UJ now suffered from water ingress? The only way to tell is to remove the UJ and check but if you have gone that far then replacement is simple. I would drop the prop and check for wear / roughness and if you feel it is ok, fit a grease-nipple otherwise replace it.

The large shock absorber thing is the Boge strut and it is to provide a self levelling ability for different loads.
Plenty about it on-line and in the manual(s).

jamesmartin · Feb 14, 2016

Shanec said:
Hi

I was underneath today trying to grease the rear most UJ and found there was no nipple or bolt! Dont understand.

Anyway, so whilst under there I noticed I have this big shock absorber looking thing attached to the axle and chassis. I cant find this for sale on the internet so do not know what it is?

I suspect it is something to do with having humans sitting in the rear of the vehicle, but whats its name and how to test if its working OK?

Not seen anything like it before!

not all ujs have grease nipples

Shanec · Feb 16, 2016

This uj has no nipple or thread showing and looks very very dry and rust on surface.

Thanks for name of boge strut. No longer made. So just fit td5 springs and shock after removing boge strut and throwing in bin?

Brown · Feb 16, 2016

Looking dry on the surface isn't necessarily a problem. It's if the roller bearings themselves are dry that's a problem. If it seems reasonably smooth and has no slack, it's probably OK. Once upon a time these kinds of joints had grease nipples, then a lot of manufacturers eliminated the grease nipple and called them 'sealed for life'. When I was first doing things with cars in the 1980s it was hard to find a Hardy Spicer spider with provision for a grease nipple. Now they're back in vogue and everybody wants one.

bluedog333 · Feb 17, 2016

Boge can be tested by loading a bit of weight in the back ( before having driven ), measure distance of wheel arch to floor/top of tyre, drive around for 10 mins or so and measure again. You'll find that the measurement will be the same, as none of them Boge units work anymore! Which is a shame, as they provided a soft ride for a large load ( snigger ).

ER1C · Feb 17, 2016

bluedog333 said:
Boge can be tested by loading a bit of weight in the back ( before having driven ), measure distance of wheel arch to floor/top of tyre, drive around for 10 mins or so and measure again. You'll find that the measurement will be the same, as none of them Boge units work anymore! Which is a shame, as they provided a soft ride for a large load ( snigger ).

+1... if yours did by some miraculous reason work, you could probably take it off and sell it for £800

Shanec · Feb 20, 2016

It has had more than its fair share of backseat banging in its time it seems because it no longer works

Anyone know what springs and shocks to put on the rear to replace bore setup? I'm mostly on two wheels at speed on the road?

jamesmartin · Feb 20, 2016

nrc6389 drivers side nrc6904 passenger side shocks stc3771 x 2 for std set up or you can go h/d

Shanec · Feb 24, 2016

Thanks James, going to go for the britpart HD versions

110 CSW 1992 rear axle shock absorber?

Shanec

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Litch

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jamesmartin

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Shanec

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Brown

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bluedog333

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ER1C

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Shanec

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jamesmartin

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Shanec

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