PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
I think my issue (beside wrong coolant sensor) is here, one lead seems to mess up and here is what I've found on the spark plug, I think it makes an arc or something.
Freelander 1 1.8K lumpy start from cold.
- Thread starter PRO
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Not shown in the picture but it's very black.
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Still no idea what causes this.
I have changed two o2 sensors since.
Swapped also two IACVs, TPS, Maps...
Will try denso iridium TT (had platinium) but doubt that is it.
I think it might be on the coils, I have many around beru or denso or noname from dmgrs. Some have differents PNs: NEC000120 vs NEC000130 (pencil ones)
Now is running quite lumpy on idle I feel it kicking all the time...
Is there a way to check what values on delphi to spot the issue?
I have changed two o2 sensors since.
Swapped also two IACVs, TPS, Maps...
Will try denso iridium TT (had platinium) but doubt that is it.
I think it might be on the coils, I have many around beru or denso or noname from dmgrs. Some have differents PNs: NEC000120 vs NEC000130 (pencil ones)
Now is running quite lumpy on idle I feel it kicking all the time...
Is there a way to check what values on delphi to spot the issue?
paul99
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 352
- Location
- Right here, right now.
Look at the knock sensor and misfire data? Not the body, but the business end of the plug looks like it might be burning hot and lean on that photo. Have a look at your fuel trims while you are in there. Now I will look through this thread from the beginning, I've only checked that one last post.
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
No misfire. I did not know K series have a knock sensor... do they?
paul99
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 352
- Location
- Right here, right now.
I don't know for sure, but most OBD II engines seem to have them. The data lists on Delphi for the engine should show if knock data is available. Graph view on Delphi is handy when looking at sensors, particularly the Lambda sensors. Looking through the rest of the thread, I know you said the problem got better when you changed the downstream Lambda sensor, but I would have had leaky injectors and a bad charcoal canister or otherwise faulty evap system on the suspect list for the fuel smell. If you still get the smell, they would be worth checking out. Not that I know for sure if it has an evap system on it.
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Yep next on my list is the whole manifold with injectors etc.
I now have a genuine o2 sensor (upstream) used low mileage, I believe is a better choice than any aftermarket including bosch/delphi.
I now have a genuine o2 sensor (upstream) used low mileage, I believe is a better choice than any aftermarket including bosch/delphi.
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
The newer ones are IK20TT but did not install them yet.
However, in picture I have NLP100290 genuine. Which is the PN microcat is listing for my car...
None of them publish such info on temp.
Perhaps over tighten? I did 25nm....
However, in picture I have NLP100290 genuine. Which is the PN microcat is listing for my car...
None of them publish such info on temp.
Perhaps over tighten? I did 25nm....
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
I think I've cured the thing.
On full intention to change head gasket and replace the cylinder head with a one_skimmed 20k miles one, upon removing the inlet manifold I saw the gasket was completely shot and over torqued.
Quite a mess in there. Same with the water pump.
So I won't change the head gasket anymore, since I have no sign of it failing. I did change the timing belt, water pump, etc. Did not run lumpy and on idle is a bit more stable now (still not perfect, never had one perfect idle unfortunately.
However, on my quest I found the bolt from the heat shield on exhaust impossible to remove. Just turns and turns, is there a nut underneath? If so any idea on the size please, ran out of time today.
This is the culprit:
On full intention to change head gasket and replace the cylinder head with a one_skimmed 20k miles one, upon removing the inlet manifold I saw the gasket was completely shot and over torqued.
Quite a mess in there. Same with the water pump.
So I won't change the head gasket anymore, since I have no sign of it failing. I did change the timing belt, water pump, etc. Did not run lumpy and on idle is a bit more stable now (still not perfect, never had one perfect idle unfortunately.
However, on my quest I found the bolt from the heat shield on exhaust impossible to remove. Just turns and turns, is there a nut underneath? If so any idea on the size please, ran out of time today.
This is the culprit:
PRO
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 636
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Yep that was it, that silly inlet manifold gasket. Car runs like a dream now after a fuel adaptation reset.
Can't believe I've replaced so many parts completely forgetting about that gasket, should have been among the first things to check.
Can't believe I've replaced so many parts completely forgetting about that gasket, should have been among the first things to check.
Similar threads
