Freelander 1 1.8K lumpy start from cold.

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I think my issue (beside wrong coolant sensor) is here, one lead seems to mess up and here is what I've found on the spark plug, I think it makes an arc or something.

upload_2020-4-5_12-34-0.png
 
Still no idea what causes this.
I have changed two o2 sensors since.
Swapped also two IACVs, TPS, Maps...
Will try denso iridium TT (had platinium) but doubt that is it.
I think it might be on the coils, I have many around beru or denso or noname from dmgrs. Some have differents PNs: NEC000120 vs NEC000130 (pencil ones)

Now is running quite lumpy on idle I feel it kicking all the time...
Is there a way to check what values on delphi to spot the issue?
 
Look at the knock sensor and misfire data? Not the body, but the business end of the plug looks like it might be burning hot and lean on that photo. Have a look at your fuel trims while you are in there. Now I will look through this thread from the beginning, I've only checked that one last post.
 
I don't know for sure, but most OBD II engines seem to have them. The data lists on Delphi for the engine should show if knock data is available. Graph view on Delphi is handy when looking at sensors, particularly the Lambda sensors. Looking through the rest of the thread, I know you said the problem got better when you changed the downstream Lambda sensor, but I would have had leaky injectors and a bad charcoal canister or otherwise faulty evap system on the suspect list for the fuel smell. If you still get the smell, they would be worth checking out. Not that I know for sure if it has an evap system on it.
 
Yep next on my list is the whole manifold with injectors etc.
I now have a genuine o2 sensor (upstream) used low mileage, I believe is a better choice than any aftermarket including bosch/delphi.
 
No misfire. I did not know K series have a knock sensor... do they?
No knock sensor on the K4, only the KV6 has those.

I'd say your plugs look to be burning a bit hot, so check they are the correct temperature for the engine.
 
The newer ones are IK20TT but did not install them yet.
However, in picture I have NLP100290 genuine. Which is the PN microcat is listing for my car...
None of them publish such info on temp.
Perhaps over tighten? I did 25nm....
 
I think I've cured the thing.
On full intention to change head gasket and replace the cylinder head with a one_skimmed 20k miles one, upon removing the inlet manifold I saw the gasket was completely shot and over torqued.
Quite a mess in there. Same with the water pump.
So I won't change the head gasket anymore, since I have no sign of it failing. I did change the timing belt, water pump, etc. Did not run lumpy and on idle is a bit more stable now (still not perfect, never had one perfect idle unfortunately.

However, on my quest I found the bolt from the heat shield on exhaust impossible to remove. Just turns and turns, is there a nut underneath? If so any idea on the size please, ran out of time today.

This is the culprit:

upload_2020-6-9_22-12-52.png
 
Yep that was it, that silly inlet manifold gasket. Car runs like a dream now after a fuel adaptation reset.
Can't believe I've replaced so many parts completely forgetting about that gasket, should have been among the first things to check.
 
Yep that was it, that silly inlet manifold gasket. Car runs like a dream now after a fuel adaptation reset.
Can't believe I've replaced so many parts completely forgetting about that gasket, should have been among the first things to check.

Sometimes the simple things get overlooked. It's easy done, but at least it's sorted. :)
 
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