1.8 XEI won't start!

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There are two connectors to the sensors on the top hose fitting into the head.
One brown , one blue.
One controls the fans (brown) the other (blue) the temperature gauge.
Have you got these swapped round?
May have some bearing on the gauge problem.

If the fuel pump is not running then either the inertia switch or immobiliser is blocking it (assuming there is no pump fault).
I'll have a look round the diagrams and get back to you.
Have you down loaded the RAVE yet? You're gonna need it!
As it's a facelift you may need the Haynes as well. (RAVE stopped updating in 2003)
 
Had a look in Haynes for the facelift info.
The attached gives you the positions of those components used in starting and fuel pump operation.
The pin out for the starting relay should let you test for the voltages at the relay socket. (they should still be there with the relay removed when you operate the ign switch to the start position - may need a second pair of hands?) :)
You may hear R4 and R1 operating with the ignition without R2 - it needs R2 to operate to crank. :doh:

Either R1 or R4 will stop the fuel pump running. That's another problem. :eek:

If R4 is not operating then lots of stuff won't work - thats the main relay to start stuff up when the ign switch is turned on.
R4 and R1 operate with ignition - R2 only operates when cranking to start.

Hope this helps? :):)
 

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FreeAnger, ianda12,
Intrigued by this one am I. :scratching_chin:
Too cold to venture outside.
Finding relays that may not be working seems a common(ish) theme on the FL.
Had a think and came up with this - any use?? :):):)
 

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Hi John, sorry for the late update.

Spent abit of time on the freelander today.

Here's what i found, still abit confused.

Checked and tested fuse FL1 = ok also 12v is measured
Checked and tested fuse FL3 = ok also 12v is measured
Checked and tested fuse FL7 = ok also 12v is measured
Checked and tested fuse F10 = ok also 12v is measured

I removed the cover off R2 and could see and hear it clicking.
R1 and R4 gave no action?

I swapped it with R2 as its a known working relay, still no joy.

I checked the temperature sensor on the coolant pipe at the front of the cylinder head. There only seems to be one plug - black in colour. I think the pre face lift models have 2?

Any suggestion?

I think it could be an immobiliser issue, not sure how i can confim

Thinking it might be time to send it to landerover!

Phil
 
TD John said:
FreeAnger, ianda12,
Intrigued by this one am I. :scratching_chin:
Too cold to venture outside.
Finding relays that may not be working seems a common(ish) theme on the FL.
Had a think and came up with this - any use?? :):):)
Click to expand...


Either circuit would prove the relay is getting a signal to pull it in, wouldn't prove if the relay is actually working though.
 
Are you sure R2 is operating? (cover off) - If it is then the imobiliser is NOT inhibiting the starter - if R2 operates and the fuses and links are intact then the engine should crank.
You say the starter turns the engine with a direct 12v to the small terminal then the starters ok - when R2 operates it should do the same?
You say you've swapped relays and tried others in the R2 position?
Try testing as suggested in post #19 - start from the small terminal on the starter and work back until you find where the 12v is getting blocked.
If you can get at R2 with the cover off, can you see the permanent 12v from the fuse on one contact and when operated on the other contact of the relay? (relays are known to operate but not connect thro' - dirty contacts)
If you get the 12v thro' R2 then it is just connectors and wiring between the relay and the starter.
I would concentrate on getting the engine to turn with the key first - assuming that R2 is operating - before trying to sort the fuel pump or gauges.

Sounds a bit worrying if R4 is not operating??

You could have an immobiliser or ECU problem but that may be down to a disturbed earth bond or either of the multiplugs where the loom feeds into these units.
I had a lot of unrelated problems suddenly appear on my Rover 400 after working on the engine but most of them cleared by removing and reseating the ECU plugs and cleaning up the earth bar near the ECU where several black wires join and bolt to the wing. It all looked good and was tight but when unbolted there was a layer of rust underneath - cleaned and rebolted - magic.
 
ianda12 said:
If you disconnect the engine temperature sensor does the gauge still go to the red and bring on the warning light ?
Click to expand...

Yes the gauge still goes to the red evan if the temp sensor is disconnected:confused:

The diagnosis machine worked fine before hand.

Hopefully if it isn't to cold out side i'll try those things out you mentioned John.

What a pain in the arse! :deadhorse:

Has anyone had any ecu problems before?

Is there anyway of by-passing the immobilser? so i can eliminate that. If there is i'd prefer a PM for saftey reasons.

Definatly sure only R2 is operating upon cranking, R1 and R4 should be activating whilst cranking right?

Many thanks for your help so far guys! :)
 
As the temperature gauge is getting a signal with the sensor disconnected and your diagnosis machine isn't working it looks like you haven't connected some of the plugs in the right places. Try unplugging connectors until the temp. gauge drops.
Or possibly you have clamped a cable which is shorting to earth.
 
Fink ianda12 is right on the money.
Go with ianda12 first - check all the plugs + wiring loom and make sure they are all where they should be and that nothing has got squashed putting it all back together.

If that does not make it any better - go back to the starter circuit first and get it cranking - it's a simple wiring link once R2 is operating - then look for the next problem one at a time.
Yes R1 & R4 should be in before turning the starter.
BUT - If R2 is operating on the ignition key - then the immobiliser is not stopping the starter and it should crank?
If it don't - as you've checked the fuses - then there's something wrong with the wiring (or the relay) !!
 
Thanks guys.

I disconnected all the plugs and cleaned up the connectors. Reconnected them, still no joy.

I spoke to someone from a LR specialist who mentioned that the throttle motor plugs can be mixed up with the plug connector to the HT leads. That was ok.

The LR specialist guy popped round breifly earlier today and connected his machine to it. He said he can comunicate with the car but not the engine ecu! He also ruled out the immobiliser being at fault.

It really is tooo cold to be scrathing my head outside with this one! I was thinking of having the engine ecu tested?! Any companies that you would recommend?
 
Did you have to unplug the ECU to change the head gasket ?
Also did you unplug each connector to try and get the temp. gauge to drop ?
 
Last edited:
ianda12 said:
Did you have to unplug the ECU to change the head gasket ?
Also did you unplug each connector to try and get the temp. gauge to drop ?
Click to expand...

I didn't unplug the ecu before replacing the head gasket.

I sure did, the temp gauge didn't come down
 
Have you got it turning over on the key yet?
Post #19 - if R2 is operating the blue bit is ok.
Only leaves the orange bit to get the starter turrning? :)
You have already had the starter turning with a direct feed.
When that is working then you have some confidence that the immobiliser and ECU are trying to work.
Then look at why the fuel pump is not running. :confused:
One fault at a time.
 
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