'03MY L322 Petrol 114k5 miles

Dam I am always late to the party

You mean lot. Poor OP is being very stoic IMHO.
I would have resorted to 5ltrs of fuel and the unfortunate discarding of a lit match by now.

brianp38dse said:

Dam I am always late the party

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I hope that's sweet buttered popcorn? I hate porridge with salt on it...

Just to add that a passer by (in an Evoque) just stopped to yell: "you have to turn the key twice to unlock all the doors at once"! And then drove off. So I can actually get into the load space now without making a rear end of myself pulling down the rear seat backs and clambouring about.

In neutral rolled back about 2" and then put Handbrake on then in Park just in case some "pawl ratchet" somewhere's had stuck

They're still rustling the lace...

Agenda for tomorrow:
Check all fuses that are to do with Central Locking, Electric Windows (mine still stuck 1" open), Steering Column, Immo, and Transmission.

The ultimate in humiliation, an ejoke driver telling you how to unlock your vehicle. RTFM comes to mind

I can handle it. Least I don't drive around in a squashed sardine can

Meantime, back at the real RR funny farm (where life is beautiful all the time and I'll be happy to see those nice young men in their clean white coats...) have been looking at IGN locks. Believe mine's YXB000080 £54.58 +p&p from Brit Car. But question, if it's that part that needs change out, surely my keys won't then fit? Or does it come with?

Have downloaded and read the RAVE manuals yet?

There may be some information in there that will trigger the 'ah ha' moment we are all searching for....



www.landroverresource.com

I wouldn’t buy anything yet...
Back to basics as this thread has moved so fast.
Does alarm central locking work with either key?

If you can set the alarm, and open the door with the key does the alarm sound and if it does, does it stop when you put the key in the ignition ?

When you put the key in or lay on top of the ignition do you get a click from the ignition barrel and does the steering lock click / unlock or try and unlock ?

Have you tried holding the key in the lock position in the door to shut the windows?

td4van said:

Have you tried holding the key in the lock position in the door to shut the windows?

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Good point.

holidaychicken said:

I wouldn’t buy anything yet...
Back to basics as this thread has moved so fast. Does alarm central locking work with either key?

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I'm not completely sure how the Central Locking is meant to "work" on these cars as I'm not familiar with all their functions. But... I can open the drivers' door with one key turn, and open all locks (including the tailgate) with two turns. Both turn off the flashing red LED at the bottom of the drivers' mirror.

holidaychicken said:

If you can set the alarm, and open the door with the key does the alarm sound

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I'm not sure what is meant by "set" the alarm but...

The alarm does not sound when I open the door/s with the "good" key. Previously, when all was working well I tried opening the drivers' door with the other key (that did not operate the IGN) so as to see whether the second key actually worked. The alarm sounded then. So to stop it I used the "good" key into the ignition barrel. I can't remember whether I had to turn it in the ignition barrel or not but the alarm then stopped.

holidaychicken said:

and if it does, does it stop when you put the key in the ignition ?

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The alarm does not sound

holidaychicken said:

When you put the key in or lay on top of the ignition do you get a click from the ignition barrel

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When I insert the "good" key I get clicks three times. I don't know whether any of them come from the ignition barrel... I'll just go and check... I can't hear any clicks that are definately coming from the ignition barrel. All the clicks I hear seem to be coming from behind the dash three of them that sound as if they're coming from more than one component

holidaychicken said:

and does the steering lock click / unlock or try and unlock ?

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Partially. Meaning that the recovery chap was able to straighten the wheels ready for loading onto his transporter by turning the wheel as he turned the key into (toward) the 10º position. But the steering lock is not totally free so that you can move the wheels without the steering lock catching

For the Fuse 18 remove procedure. I've tried removing the fuse, waiting a minute (rain dance), replacing it and then trying to turn the key in the barrel to get past 10º. That was when gear lever was in Neutral. Do I have to do this in Park? Also, have I misread the procedure? Should I be trying to get past 10º when the fuse is still out, i.e. before replacing it?

td4van said:

Have you tried holding the key in the lock position in the door to shut the windows?

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I'll go and try that now. Using the "good" key inserted into the door lock, I unlocked all locks by turning twice, then locked by turning once but holding the key against the sprung lock position. The front two windows went up
Even more progress

I think I need a truth table

RichardSEL said:

I'm not completely sure how the Central Locking is meant to "work" on these cars as I'm not familiar with all their functions........

........I'm not sure what is meant by "set" the alarm but...

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I am going to say it one more time......YOU NEED TO READ THE RAVE MANUALS......it will tell you everything you need to know about how the system works, what each ECU, System and Component works....and how they all affect each other.....how it is configured, how it works, and how it all interlinks with the other vehicle systems......

Can be downloaded from here:

www.landroverresource.com

And I provide a video on how to install it and how to use it (as some struggle with this!)

Download it, read it and you may find some tit-bit of information in there that will give you an 'ah-ha' moment.

You keep saying I don't know how this works or that works.......then read the manuals and be informed.

Ok, the fact you are getting a clicking from the steering lock means your transponder in the key is ok.
Dont worry about anything alarm related now, i was just trying to ascertain if your transponder is communicating and the steering lock noise and the cancelling the alarm sounder by putting the key in the ignition is good, the windows going up doesn't mean anything and your door lock doesn't care what key you put in as long as the physical blade unlocks the door.

Your main concern is the key transponder is communicating with the coil around the ignition barrel.

Do you have diagnostics that can look at the steering lock ECU?

The steering lock ECU or physical solenoid is a fairly common fault which the fuse 18 trick can sometimes overcome but not always. I had an immobilised TD6 once and the only way to get the key to turn was to unplug the steering lock ECU, plug it back in, wait 30 seconds for a feint click to be heard from the ignition barrel and then it would turn - wouldn't crank though as EWS was still immobilising the engine which is done via the starter motor on the diesel, the key transponder in this case wasn't programmed.

I would try diagnostics on the steering ECU for any signs of problems and then there are a few options to try..

But do as Saint says, get rave and read the system description manual.

Now i dont know about the fix this guy uses as i have never tried it but the plug he removes is the one I removed and then replaced which would give me one turn, you could try disconnecting this to see if you get a turn of the ignition which should help trace the problem to steering lock.



when you try the fuse 18 trick, try first with car in park and no key in ignition, remove the fuse, repalce it and listen to the ignition barrel or even rest your hand on it to see if you get a feint click. then try this again with the key in the ignition, it took a while for me to hear the click which was the key lock disengaging after about 10 - 20 seconds.

then try the steering ecu plug above

Saint.V8 said:

I am going to say it one more time......YOU NEED TO READ THE RAVE MANUALS......it will tell you everything you need to know about how the system works, what each ECU, System and Component works....and how they all affect each other.....how it is configured, how it works, and how it all interlinks with the other vehicle systems......
Can be downloaded from here:
www.landroverresource.com
And I provide a video on how to install it and how to use it (as some struggle with this!)

Click to expand...

Yes, I saw your video, listened to your LBC commentary and will read what's inside Rave. Whether that will provide me with the familiarity that you guyz in here have already been kindly offering is another matter altogether. For example I doubt whether the Fuse 18 procedure would be there...

Saint.V8 said:

Download it, read it and you may find some tit-bit of information in there that will give you an 'ah-ha' moment.

Click to expand...

Hope so

Saint.V8 said:

You keep saying I don't know how this works or that works.......then read the manuals and be informed.

Click to expand...

We used to wire up a plunger switch in the comms desk console that said "Press to Test" on it. Anyone doing so was then met with a warning light that read "Release to Detonate"

here's a couple of pages from rave system description and operation manual that saint has linked you too, probably the best manual for a vehicle ever written

IF it is a steering lock problem there are a few potential fixes, including a new or recon steering column

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6...2/73881-ignition-lock-test-key-wont-turn.html

more info from rave

https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/steering/description/steering_column/page_268/

Some have just removed the plunger in the ignition barrel which may not help if your steering is not unlocking or your EWS is immobilisng the vehicle.

Of course the Fuse 18 trick isn't in RAVE as it is not part of Land Rovers test procedures....but reading RAVE and seeing how the system works, would derive a process to determine the Fuse 18 trick.....

BUT, reading the system descriptions and how it all interlinks and works....will make you as informed as we are....after all, everything we know is based and taken from RAVE as we were not part of the Land Rover/BMW team who developed all these systems....so we have had to read the manuals, learn from each other, research information and bounce ideas around......try things and at times just keep them fingers crossed.....

holidaychicken said:

Ok, the fact you are getting a clicking from the steering lock means your transponder in the key is ok.

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The three clicks I hear coming from somewhere's behind the dashboard I assume is steering lock. Although
the steering wheel doesn't remain unlocked. In fact, just tried moving steering to the next steering lock position and although I could feel the physical lock engage the steering wheel did not stay there, it sprung back to the previous steering lock's position

holidaychicken said:

Dont worry about anything alarm related now, i was just trying to ascertain if your transponder is communicating and the steering lock noise and the cancelling the alarm sounder by putting the key in the ignition is good,

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The alarm sounder does not sound. It did when everything was working alright and I used the key that did not cause start to unlock. Then (when everything was working alright) I used the "good" key into IGN lock to stop the alarm sounder

holidaychicken said:

Your main concern is the key transponder is communicating with the coil around the ignition barrel. Do you have diagnostics that can look at the steering lock ECU?

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The only diagnostics I have is iCarsoft's i930 that is not just plain OBD2 codes but has a section for Land Rover, Range Rover, 2002-2005, petrol. It does not have a selectable module in its list for Steering Lock ECU. It has "Immoboliser", "Security". The problem here is that the CAN bus is only partially alive. Under Security there is shown two faults: "Security Magnet Fault" and "Locking Operation Error". I've cleared them both. Most of the other modules I can't get access to. Although when key used to be in position 1 I could read every module listed.

holidaychicken said:

The steering lock ECU or physical solenoid is a fairly common fault which the fuse 18 trick can sometimes overcome but not always.

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I tried the Fuse 18 again, this time in Park and no difference. I just don't either feel or hear any solenoid around the ignition barrel clunking. Trying with keeping Fuse 18 out means there's no clunking from solenoids around / behind the instrument panel either -- just silence

I found a Fuse 59 (20A "independent heater" was in the fuse box. So I removed it in case that FBH for a petrol engine was elsewhere than shown on a diesel. I then checked Fuse 60 (30A listed as Central Locking and Electric Windows Rear) just in case. But that's as far as I got as contortion is difficult for me besides which that freezing wind was whipping up, and into the cabin, and dummies out on their Sunday afternoon drive were expecting me to shut the door so they could get past every time
Other fuses I expect to check are:
20 30A Steering Column
23 15 Steering Column
25 5 IMMO
31 5 IMMO
33 5 Transmission
39 5 IMMO
54 15 Transmission

holidaychicken said:

then there are a few options to try...

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Fast coming to the conclusion that there's no clunk or noise at all coming from the ignition barrel, so whatever
solenoid's there isn't either receiving its oats, or is stuck out, or is o/c.

I'll try removing the steering column bottom cowl once I've sussed out whether it's just that far-up single recessed screw holding it in place or I need pullers to avoid damage

<I would've put a .png of YXB000080 here>