00KK53 - My Soft Top 12v GS TUL 90. So a soft top 90 then......

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This is the exhaust mount we made at the rear as the NA chassis doesn't have the rear drivers side hanger
 

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Top speed with the big tyres and 1.2 is way too fast for a Defender. It will touch 90+ (GPS not speedo) if you're brave (or stupid) enough. It cruises nicely at 70mph without feeling too revvy.
 
You just need a straight through pipe now lol - Someone asked me the other day if I had a V8. I appreciate that it doesn't sound like a v8 but it certainly has some presence.
 
Yeah I did sound pretty awesome with just the down pipe and front box :D

Couple more pics if anyone is bothered
 

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flat said:
Yes, well me and a mate - stripped it all the way to short block - bores are perfect, can still see hone marks and the crank was good. Head was blasted, skimmed and pressure tested

Changed the cam/rocker setup as a singular rocker had some pitting.

Complete victor reinz gasket set, everything aluminium apart from water pump media blasted, block painted with LR paint. Dayco belts.

Fuel pump rebuilt but not tweaked.

New exhaust, down pipe wrapped.

New AP clutch, bearing and XD fork

All new rad/frame/intercooler/all pipes new genuine.

New engine mounts

RDX electric fan

Defender fuel filter housing
Few other bits I can remember, I reused a couple of bits (alternator, starter motor and a couple other bits but cleaned and checked them before refitting)

Day and a half of work to actually fit but fairly straight forward, only had one exhaust mount that wouldn't come undone so was cut off, the rest were fine.

Aimed for as close to factory fit as possible. Used loads of new stainless fixings and clamps etc though.

Will post some more detailed pics some time of anyone is interested?

Ed
Click to expand...

Crikey, you went the full hog then, it looks good for it though :) Awesome work.
Where did you get the lr paint for the block? Seems I could do with some of that for my rebuild :)
 
It's landrover gold paint that the 200tdi was painted in originally - any good high temp paint will do though. A mate just had the tin spare. Will ask what the RAL code is

Yes I thought might aswell do it properly then I know it's good for a long time.

It's a cracking engine, great compression and bags of power. Debating getting it on a rolling road see exactly what it's producing.

Haven't tweaked the pump yet and tbh don't feel I need to.

I loved building it, really appealed to my meticulous ocd nature checking the specs etc.
 
Okay spent the day replacing door seals, re-stringing the tilt and aligning the doors properly. Cabin is waaay less draughty now!

I also fitted the acoustic matting system the MOD use in the current Tithonus and Wolf vehicles. I must say I was dubious as the how much it would sound deaden but I am amazed, suffice it to say my indicator relay has gone from 'not even aware of it' to 'irritatingly loud' - total faff to fit but so worth it.
 

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Started 2016 with mechanicals.

My servo and master cylinder **** the bed before Christmas leaving me first with a wooden hard pedal then barely any pedal at all. I just parked it up and forgot about it as it was Christmas.

Well today got out and stripped it, master cylinder is alright actually but borderline so will replace, servo is fubar'd and won't hold vacuum for more than a couple mins, there is a rust hole right where the master cylinder bolts on. Doesn't look much in the photo but it is there is assure you!

So ordered OEM replacements which will be here on the 4th. In the mean time as I have broken the hydraulic lines I thought I might aswell relapse the flexis as one was cracking, the other 2 are okay but might aswell do them all. Replaced them with goodridge ss braided ones.

Out with the old and in with the new.

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You've been busy... Engine looks mint! Hope you get the other little issues sorted soon. Bet the soundproofing cost a fortune!
 
How does the plumbing work for your snorkle for the heater intake? I'm guessing you still have the na air filter position.
 
Huddy84 said:
How does the plumbing work for your snorkle for the heater intake? I'm guessing you still have the na air filter position.
Click to expand...

Okay photos.

Stock 200tdi intake setup.
Silicon 90 degree bend (is a reducer aswell)
1 short length of stainless pipe to connect the 2 bits and I was able to plumb the NA snorkel into the tdi airbox.

Heater intake is a long piece of flexi pipe that runs all the way down behind the front headlight

2 photos
1 shows the tdi setup and snorkel connections from above

The second shows the connections down below - the blue silicon bit is the 90degree off the airbox to the rubber flexi of the NA snorkel
 

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