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Locking or limited slip diffs in the axels

Disco2 clutches are notoriously difficult to bleed, I would start there before replacing anything. The only way I found to do it reliably is to raise the front of the car on ramps or stands then force fluid in from the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder hopeing it pushes air up and out the top...

If you run the high pressure fuel pump dry it's very likely it will be damaged.

Which scan tool do you have? If it won't raise and the only code you have is the above code for front right sensor then I would pursue testing that sensor. If you can view live data then pop off the end of the arm that connects to the car and move the arm around and see if the live data shows...

First thing todo is to test your front right height sensor, sounds like it could do with a calibration if it's leaning as well. Leaks etc unless they are catastrophic (I.e you can hear hissing all the time) will not cause leaning, it will be down to faulty height sensor or duff calibration.

What scan tool are you using? Those C codes should have more detail to tell you exactly what they relate to. Seems you have height sensor problems and still slow to fill. I would start by checking each height sensor, as for slow to fill - how old is the tank? They rust and leak etc

I've got these fitted to my D3 in 18inch and I've been very impressed with them around the farm. Have done a couple of long road trips with them as well and they're nice and quiet. £25 a wheel cheaper than grabbers as well.

Tensioner and guides are a weak point on the 4.4 yeah, but it's a fairly straight forward replacement job. Worth checking if you buy one, just like you should be checking the oil pump on the diesels.

The V8 in the D3 was the JLR 4.4, the BMW engine was in the early rangies only.

It's a common thing that gets flagged up on the D3 and D4 as there is some flex allowed in those arms/bushes by design, but usually it's just an advisory. So if they're an MOT tech with a long pry bar and not a lot of experience of the discos then it's understandable that they might flag them as...

£2k raised for charity but works out as about £2.7k ULEZ charges for 150 vehicles... not sure I see the logic!

Yeah forgot to say you probably want pads/discs and then a sliding pin service kit with appropriate rubber friendly grease (I.e not copper slip or GP grease).

Whatever you do on brakes you do in pairs, so both sides of the axel get the same treatment.

The car failed on the test drive and you have a thread full of knowledgeable people here warning you off. But if you do go ahead then I hope you're right and it works out for you, but personally I wouldn't buy from them.

I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier as I could of warned you off these guys. They are well known around the local garages for being a pair of chancers. I know 2 (well 3 now including you) people who have bought from them and have ended up returning the car. I would warn everyone to stay away.

Locking rear diffs very rare on the d3. Also the 4x4 screen shows an unlocked icon for the rear diff even if you don't have the option fitted.

In the couple of seconds it does run do you get 'engine system fault' or anything in the lcd screen? If so then there should be a code. If you wanna keep the car then get a decent code reader. Will save you big time.

They aren't cheap cars to run and every cheap d3 you find will be a disaster waiting to happen. Thing is with the tdv6 you can do all the right things, keep on top of the servicing and look after the thing like it was a family heirloom, then one day the crank will snap out of the blue and leave...

Also look closely at what you're buying as a lot of the aftermarket sumps don't have a drain hole, which obviously makes a filter change a messy job!

The core plug under the exhaust is a common place, mine tended to leak when cold but it sealed up and held pressure when hot