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Sounds a good one, may not have plenty of toys but easier to work on and less to go wrong. Had mine a good while and biggest job I had to do was two door latches, seem a very common failure- quite pricey too. Oh and injector seals, but after that nothing but services. Also had the most cup...

Lovely disco 2, leather interior? Had one myself “landmark” edition/ spec, was a nice motor, mine had decent chassis but last 6 inches of outer sills had corroded so farther in law welded them. Decent engine to the td5. Not too bad to work on. Think it’s corrosion that kills them as mechanicals...

Ah right yea, they are big things, never done them, I know a tool is available to help and meant to be ok to do. Guess it’s like most things, right tool makes it easier.

Took my 4.2sc on its longest drive in my ownership, up to fort William, 315 miles, incredible cruiser and cost about £80 so not too bad on fuel.

Regarding gearbox cost. Yes I did mean £2000, not £200 🤣🙄.

Which rear bushes? In the hubs? There actually very easy with right tool.

£3500? Seems steep, place I use qouted me £200 for full rebuilt and new torque converter, although depending on when it was cost of repair has dropped from what it used to be.

Just given mine a good wash and clean inside aswell and condition seat leathers etc in preparation for its trip to Scotland tomorrow.

Just make sure it’s a good box. No point paying for a second hand one , fitting it etc only to find it lasts a month and goes bang.

That sounds like how they fail, loss of drive. Either second hand or bite the bullet and have it rebuilt. Then you know it’s a good box and torque converter. That’s the weak bit on the td6. Once sorted there a solid reliable machine.

My td6 had a thermostat change and we just flushed the system with hose, then used normal orange OAT, long as it’s flushed then hardly any old stuff about incase it doesn’t like to mix, any will be ok on the td6.

Never heard of lubing hubs, definitely nothing there to pump grease into, unless it’s meaning wire brush and copper grease on front of brake discs to stop wheels seizing on. Tyre rotation is just for even wear. Can’t say iv ever flushed brake fluid, iv topped up after changing calipers etc on...

Wasn’t the M57, the dodgy one I think is N57, modern version of the M57 which is cleaner/ better on fuel but more problematic and has a weak chain at the back of the engine. If I got rid of my 4.2 RR, and was looking at any car again, I’d prefer something like x5,7 series etc with the M57, look...

Td6 is a very good and strong engine. Just gearbox is a bit weak. However one with a recent rebuilt box would be hard to beat.

Had sticking calipers about a month ago, did check temps other day, rear wheel centres were 16 & 17 degrees and fronts were 18 &19 so brakes and bearings seem to be running fine.

Got track control arms changed the other day and track rod ends today, it’s going in garage Wednesday for Coolant hose change that lives deep in the V of the engine, preventative maintenance. Also past few days heard a odd noise between 20-40mph when driving, almost like when you hear somone...

How long did it take to change starter? Think mine on my 4.2 is getting bit lazy. Up in Scotland in a week or so, hopefully it will behave itself.

Same as me, there service kits were decent, pay for OEM and get all filters etc. again back to my post about linked parts at least in service kit you got sump plug, filters etc, bugs me when they sell parts but not new bolts to go with it etc.

Did have a look online other day their website isn’t great but like you say sometimes it’s easier to ring and speak to somone. If it’s Darwin area it’s probably half hour/45 mins from me so for some parts it’s worth going.

Used them a few times without issue just sometimes can’t find or see listing for what would be linked parts eg, changing track control arm on a Range Rover, they sell they arm but not the bolts which given the age or corrosion Will possibly need a new one, or changing handbrake/ general brake...