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hmmm, good question, no its not just while moving

its a weird one but i seem to have a vibration which is most noticeable between 1500-2000 rpm. Things I noticed: 1. doesnt matter if it is in gear or clutch pressed/depressed 2. tried to change front and rear props 3. unlikely (i hope) that its engine mounts as they were changed 3/4 years ago...

yeah i have 1 year old at the front but FOR ONCE i didnt think about buying another one to keep in my personal stock so i might have problems when the rear one goes :( i will only consider removing ace if i decide to put an M57 instead of a td5...and even then i will consider putting an electric...

of course, an other option is to fit a generic double action hydraulic cylinder, in which case anyone has done it and knows one which fits close enough :)

Well considering that ACE Actuators seem to have vanished and you can barely find a second hand one, anyone knows if it is possible to service an ACE actuator if it is leaking?

well i guess you were right :(

please tell us more about this :D From which vehicle is the new turbo? I know it is a GT2256V but different source vehicles might probably mean different flanges. did you find one which fit the stock exhaust manifold and down pipe?>

unfortunately rust has found its was around the windscreen (top part) and was looking into fixing it. before i start tearing thing apart, is there anything i need to replace in the process? seals etc?

from what i am seeing the direction of the stock diffs are the same so only the rear is normally working on the strong side. this explains why front diffs are more prone to wear and whining. ashcroft offer a fix for that by means of front/rear crowns... anyway it means that my idea for the p38...

might be a silly question but can a rear diff be made to work at the front? thinking about adapting a P38 4-pin rear diff for the back of my disco and was wondering if the same could be dont at the front (use rear p38 diff for the front of the disco)!

i had the same concern but a few friends are running these batteries in older trucks like d1s,d2s, hiluxs etc and they seem to be working fine.

Draw both locked and unlocked stabilises at 40mAh. I also could not find any culprit by removing the relays/fuses in the engine bay. Im guessing a likely cause could be an alternator on its way out?

thanks, just the info i needed, will check and let you know

battery is a red top optima, few months old, hope it is not the problem here. i do have a multimeter. do you know what the 'normal' current draw when the car is "at rest" (door closed for some time) locked and unlocked?

2003 Manual Td5 Disco I have a battery leak which is draining the battery in a few days. I suspect it has become worst over the months. Any obvious / common culprits that I can check? best way to check it?

thanks for the tips.

thanks for your help, havent taken off my headliner yet but a quick peak i m guessing i will have to source that wiring too, which i suspect wont be easy :( seems like it will be harder than I expected , we ll see

Do you have photos showing the wiring going to the switch on the roof? I fear that wiring is missing in mine

in Gozo it is probably a little better as there is usually less traffic ;)

thanks for sharing the photos!