Oh, so not Gozo!Yes but he is in Malta, where there are no long runs to get decent air flow over the evaporator so he is suffering.
in Gozo it is probably a little better as there is usually less trafficOh, so not Gozo!
Do you have photos showing the wiring going to the switch on the roof? I fear that wiring is missing in mineMy old ES Premium with rear a/c
Do you have photos showing the wiring going to the switch on the roof? I fear that wiring is missing in mine
thanks for your help, havent taken off my headliner yet but a quick peak i m guessing i will have to source that wiring too, which i suspect wont be easy seems like it will be harder than I expected , we ll seeI think thats in the 2nd pic, two white plugs and the blue plug, tbh it was so long ago I cannot remember!
Pic dated 2008
Pic of other side of said plugs
Hi, sorry for the late reply but here are pics of mine when I resealed the sunroofs & had the h/lining done.If you have any photos of how the ducting and the evaporator/blower unit are fitted, maybe photos of the bracket and from where the pipes are passing. Im guessing they come up from around the chassis up to a hole through the body. Also a photo of the electrical connection would help so i can understand what is missing from mine
If you disconnect the outside temp sender behind the grill it will make the 'eng cooling' fan run continuously with the air con on (it doesn't normally cut in until the o/s temp reaches 35 degrees hence they seize up due to lack of use !) but you lose the air temp function on the ATC (the ATC will beep for a few seconds after start up then revert to normal except the o/s temp bit) this might help a bit with air flow through the condenser rad.Yes but he is in Malta, where there are no long runs to get decent air flow over the evaporator so he is suffering.
thanks for the tips.If you disconnect the outside temp sender behind the grill it will make the 'eng cooling' fan run continuously with the air con on (it doesn't normally cut in until the o/s temp reaches 35 degrees hence they seize up due to lack of use !) but you lose the air temp function on the ATC (the ATC will beep for a few seconds after start up then revert to normal except the o/s temp bit) this might help a bit with air flow through the condenser rad.
(Tip from @sierrafery ). If the fan has seized get a replacement fan motor from Rock Autos in the states, it's a straight swap & cheaper than aftermarket fans.
I can only help you with the colour codes, also available in RAVE's Electrical Library -
Going through the electrical connections again, i realized that on the same circuit on C0483 there is indeed a BG wire, so im hoping that it is a simple wire from the blower unit to this connector
yes, the other two wires in circuit 15 go straight to the blower unit in the rear, so that is why i feel i can safely assume. In Rave Circuit 15 is associated with ATC (airconditoning)The Cct column gives a reference to the circuits associated with the connector's pin or cavity. Don't have RAVE with me right now but there's an entry in the Connectors section that lists these circuits and their reference nos. So for the BG wire on that connector, you need to identify circuit #15
thanksThis is the only pic I took of the rear air con unit when I had the boot liner off back in Dec 20, not sure it will help.
yes, the other two wires in circuit 15 go straight to the blower unit in the rear, so that is why i feel i can safely assume. In Rave Circuit 15 is associated with ATC (airconditoning)
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