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Yes - you need the resistor, but people have used the more common 390 Ohm without trouble, I beleive. Being a proper nerd, I ordered specific 400 Ohm resistors though 🤓

I do the dumb stuff that makes people say "WHY?" and "WTF for?" etc... So my current daily is a 2006 VW Touran 7 seater, which I converted with the full drivetrain from an R32 Golf (so from a FWD 2.0 auto petrol to a 4WD 3.2 VR6 manual). I've seen an L405 Range Rover for sale locally that...

As long as the 0.64 drops pretty quick, it might be OK. Settling to .24 may depend on the quality of your meter and leads - that IS fairly close to 0.30 to 0.34 though. The Coolant temp sensor for the ECU is the one with the square "timer" plug on it, kind of behind the distributor near the...

You can drill a small hole in the cap and pull it out with a screw, but it's the LAST thing you should be playing with, for you issue. The CO adjustment only trims the basic fuelling at low RPM and load... and if you have Lambdas, they take over that control anyway. The CO adjustment just sets...

Plenty of modern diesels are destroyed by fuelling issues. I have a good mate who's an engine reconditioner and my brother-in-law owns a diesel shop (injection and turbos). Both have many stories about fuelling issues and major problems. One guy had to rebuild his Nissan engine TWICE, after not...

Oh wait - found notes: Pin 2 (red/black or black) and Pin 3 (blue/green or green). Switch on ignition (but not starter) and expect to see 0.30 - 0.35 volts. Switch off wait 10 seconds and then switch ignition on again. Airflow signal should immediately go to 0.30 – 0.35 volts. If higher (0.5...

Get a rovergauge cable and you can see all the reading direct from the ECU - exactly what it's seeing. There are mutliple MAF readings you have to look for. The Idle CO is one thing, but if the MAF isn't working, then the CO adjustment means nothing anyway The CO adjustment doesn't alter the...

Make sure you seal the giant hole, right on that last pic, bottom edge, between the pillar and your tape. Follow that WHOLE seams right trough the scuttle and down the pillar. It is THE most common front footwell water source!

Toyota has made plenty of horrendous diesels over the years. And even some of the "popular" models like to crank heads a lot.

Just set aside a repair budget: about 15000 UKP should be fine. Then don't touch that money and use a separate maintenance budget for repairs and servicing - probably only a handful of thousands per year. That way you can use the first budget to fix it when it REALLY breaks... Having siad...

EngineGuard from Australia - bolts on, so reads the actual temp of where you bolt it on, even if the coolant leaks out. The problem with normal temp sensors: They often read normal, or even low, if the coolant level drops to expose them. I have one EngineGuard sensor bolted to the head/intake...

Yup... but a V8.

Mine is a late facelift, so quite possibly totally different... but the blower can be removed from under the passenger footwell in about 5 minutes. It might be worth investigating if you can get to the plug, to see if the power makes it that far.

You sure that's not the chain rattling? Video sounds weird, Maybe too close, but it's sounds very similar to an M62 Chain issue. The chain tensioners disintegrate over time. Be wary of running it, until you know. They are usually very quiet, but if the chain jumps, you'll have a much bigger...

Wurth Bumper Dye. Comes in grey and black. Lasts for years and isn't slimey or shiney like dressings.

Weird - I'd have thought that would be a lot smaller! Are there still other leaks? They probably should have seen that when the intake was off for the rocker covers...

I'm not convinced much of that is rust. It mostly looks like cavity wax, sealer, dirt and crap. A lot of the stuff in the seam looks like the sealer between the frame and door skin. Try a gentle clean up with a plastic brush to see what is really there, then spray it with creeping cavity wax...

Is that your vacuum leak? That's a big pipe! Does it go into the manifold somewhere after the throttle butterfly? Perhaps your car used to have EGR, and it's been removed, but the pipe wasn't sealed off? Just guessing. Not many vacuum tubes are that big. I assume your brake booster is still...

:vb-doh: And I bet that's all a lot steeper than it looks in pics. If I want to hire a camper, how drunk will I need to be, so I can pass the dumbass test to get one?

What brand was the outer packaging?