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A thought, if I bridge the power to the door latch and the door jar data, it'd trick to the car into thinking the door was open. If it works I know the door latch is goosed. If it didn't work that'd say it is BeCM fault. Or am I misunderstanding things?

I tested the earth's on the door using a earthing point behind the kick panel and they were all strong. Which suggests the earth you mentioned behind the rear seat is still good. Otherwise I wouldn't get continuity. Unless there is a short to body I guess.

So I have power to the door. 12v as far as the outstation. Then 5v from the outstation to the microswitch. It makes no sense as to why the windows stopped working (maybe the window motor coincidentally died at the same time), but that is all I can think of. We Have power, we have continuity...

Got a good DVM at last, so started work trying to find a fault. So far nothing that makes sense, I have continuity and low resistance from the BeCM plug to the door jam. The whole door loom is fine (from plug to plug at least). I did find a 30amp fuse that was melty, but it was fuse 12. Which...

I put all the proper clips in place. Just in case I can sort it. But I may have to sell it for scrap so I can get sometime to commute to work in. Back at work on Monday and no way of getting there. :(

Well, that didn't work. Now I am all out of ideas

#FactoryFit Now to reassemble and see if the door triggers or not.

Never easy with P38s is it? I have 3 door looms. All made within 3 months of oldest to newest (07/99, 08/99, 09/99). All 3 have enough differences that it isn't a simple case of plug and play. First loom had 3 plugs at the a post, same everywhere else. Second has 2 plugs at the a post, different...

The one I have now was about £20 and beyond getting a "this wire has some electric in it", it really isn't any good. Even continuity to the probes is inconsistent. So it made it difficult to trust the results.

Good news! I found out why my battery died as quickly as it did. I left the vehicle lights on. Bad news. Turns out without a working drivers door you really can't enter the EKA. It just trips the alarm. Good news. The battery took charge like a champion and looks perfectly fine, even after being...

Looks like a solar charger.

I heard the gentle burble of a V8 with straight pipes is a well known cure for rona.

I think that was how I got mine out when I was trying to replace it with the wrong loom. I only got it half way out when I realised my mistake. That looks about the same. If you could that'd be amazing. At least then I'd have one less thing to worry about.

That'd be amazing. I had to fight mine the first time I got them out, they both won't come out together so I had to push one backwards with a screwdriver while I pulled the other. Probably other ways to do it, but now I can just jiggle them with a finger. On the door side there are: Tweeter...

These are the badgers, a black one and a white one. I tried them before, unfortunately my alternator doesn't keep them topped off. I'll just get another of the same on there. Been on since 2014, so got my monies worth. I think I killed this battery because it isn't maintenance free and I...

Turns out my vehicle battery is goosed. Just noticed that the clock hasn't moved. Guess I know why it lost sync, but now I guess that means I need a new battery since it'd have to be absolutely dead as a dodo for the clock to stop.

Not that I know of. The bulbs are just friction fit. Sometimes get a bit stuck if they have been in for time. Should just tug out with a little force.

If they are super stuck, I think you need T5 holder.

P̶r̶e̶t̶t̶y̶ ̶s̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶ ̶w̶a̶n̶t̶ ̶W̶5̶W̶.̶ Edit: wrong, these guys look accurate

It does, but the dash was flashing key fob battery low for the last few days. The vehicle does drop sync for fun from time to time, so possibly done that. Usually not an issue.