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If you do try the freeze products then you’ll probably need to empty a few cans on it. Then wait about ten minutes before trying to turn it. Fingers crossed but when mine eventually came free they were still resisting to the end.

Mine were the same. Heat if you can. If not loads of penetrating fluid and a lump hammer. There are freeze and penetrating sprays that can work well in some applications if your still struggling. Good luck. Tricky :)

That’s why all the advice about using talcum power to track the water. It is very possible that it’s coming from the bolt locations under the folds of the metal plate. That’s exactly the terrain in the L322 boot that I found the water path. Perhaps someone knows how that section of body is...

It looks like these kits use a UV light curing resin that is glass clear when fully cured. If you’re lucky it may clear up nicely in a few days outdoors even if cloudy, alternatively under a fluorescent light. Fingers crossed. Tricky :)

Sometimes drastic action is required, it would probably have taken years to dry out if ever, good call. Tricky.:)

Not a surprise to be fair. I’m fast coming to the belief that many automotive issues are caused or associated with the stupidly complexed wiring looms. It took me two days to sort the fan motor control on the family Citroen, what a mess. Tricky :mad:

I guess you couldn’t use it again?:D

Hi just found this thread, advice seems to be don’t take it apart if you can’t seal it up again. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/p38-eas-rises-automatically.150658/ Good luck, Tricky:)

If it’s any consolation, I have to wrap a towel around the spare wheel in the boot of my L322 to stop the water slopping around. One day I will get the bumper off to re-seal the mounting plates. Then wait for another water run to open up. Tricky :mad:

Regarding the MoT, check DVSA https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/driver-and-vehicle-standards-agency provided it’s insured you can drive to a pre-booked place of repair but should only be a day or so before the test date in case you get spotted by an ANPR camera. Don’t forget to tax it...

Fair point, forgot yours is 2010, 11 years isn’t bad considering the weight of the car but if my 2005 strut was original that’s a decent 16 years and 154,000 miles life. That other bag of yours may have years left in it. Think of all the Christmas presents you can buy with £400. :D Tricky.

I’ve replaced one side on both of my L322’s as a quick failure repair without any adverse effect on ride performance. I think it depends if the old struts were replaced in pairs or not. They usually have a manufacturing sticker with a date so worth checking out. The most recent one I replaced...

For what it’s worth, my earth strap connection looked good but was actually corroded on my dead L322 and wasn’t discovered until it was undone then cleaned and done back up. As if by electrical magic the car came back to life. Unfortunately, It took two weeks and I was £800 poorer but happy i...

Interesting read, it occurs to me that you could have a wire or plug fault or exposure to moisture (it’s that time of year and you mentioned rainy drives) that is resulting in damage to the sensor. Then if you move the sensor the fault goes with it even if it was damaged on the OS. If the...

Same - I just replaced the front arm for MoT and cured a knock. Also check all the joints both sides because as said before a small movement can easily translate into a knock across the steering system. Tricky :)

Great drive for the grandkids and limp mode excitement thrown in, it’s what my family have come to expect on a day out. We’re now at the time of year to take hats, coats, food and drinks even on the shortest trips because with a Range that’s all part of the journey. Recovery membership fully...

Nothing wrong with a leaking sunroof as long as the drain tubes are connected and clear. There was a post a few weeks back on that fix. I run my L322 with a £1k a year fix budget and would love a P38 if I had the space especially at £750. I’d look more closely at the underside for rot rather...

I was not impressed with the silver bulb / pink light from the LR specification tail lights on my L322 SC so wanted to improve them but couldn’t use LED’s because of error messages from monitoring. Ended up putting Red coloured Osram bulbs for tail, brake & fog with Amber coloured bulbs for...

MoT passed, just a rear brake calliper, two front brake pipes and a front suspension arm. Looking forward to another twelve months trouble free motoring :D. Tricky :cool:

Nobody says they’re cheap to run but why do LR need to take the p..s:mad: The OEM spec is probably going to last long enough to save you from doing the job again lol.:cool: Tricky.