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U have the correct part number. 😊 The shims depending on their thickness, are 751743 or 44 or 45 or 46.

True, but a slipped liner makes a tapping sound as it reaches top or bottom or both ends of the cylinder, I did see a uTube vid once which recorded the sound and theres no mistaking it. It appeared to be common with V8 engines overheating by running on barbecue gas. As for your head gasket...

So the outlet on the inlet manifold supplying coolant to the plenum water jacket assembly must be now blanked off then. The three hose connectors involved are steal therefore can corrode the same way as core plugs can and do when the incorrect coolant mixture is used in an alloy engine. I...

I’m only going by your photos as I’ve never been there, so it appears that the coil is just a a sliding fit over the key barrel, without any such thing as plastic lugs, that always snap, to retain it, so that leaves the steering column cowl to retain it when it is fitted maybe, or some DIY with...

As you say “Have changed the MFU with a unit that has been tested” I take it all the other circuits controlled by the MFU were ok when the diagnostic test was done. As the heated rear screen relay is also switched by the MFU and which requires the engine running when checking the rear heated...

Not, if as the OPs states in his first post they have a automatic 300Tdi. Anyway, theres a lot easier way, without stripping the dash down to access the spider, and then still retaining the vehicles immobiliser security.😊

Water cooling ? Better to post a photo of what you have. There should be two hoses, flow & return as shown below which is permanent what ever the temperature is, if they leak then tighten the hose clips or replace the rubber hose simple.

Simples first, so remove the crankcase breather (flame trap) and its hose to the plenum chamber and soak in petrol to clean it, then refit, If you still have an issue carefully remove the throttle control valve and clean and replace and then check the base idle which was set in the factory...

As is stated, choke control. It’s even shown in the disco parts & workshop manual, which are a copies of both the RRc manuals, so for some markets the automatic choke control wasn’t acceptable perhaps Also the bimetal assembly appears to alter the level of a jet so part of the carbs cold...

So if you have a 3.5 disco between 1989-1990 years, both the carburettors had a choke that was operated by a bimetal assembly CUD2399L as shown as no.16 in the drawing below so not cable operated. Later in 1990 the 3.5s were fuel injection until the 3.9 arrived.

The lack of vacuum to the brake servo possibly, so check pipe from the servo to where ever the vac connection is on the D2V8. There will be a filter/restrictor as part of the connection at the servo, and if like the D1V8 there is also one at the engine vac connection, which is on the plenum...

My everyday fob failed with the “close to the ignition switch” function after about 18 years, so out came the nearly new reserve fob which is in a fully functional used now, the original fob is now the ‘just in case’ reserve and functional using the unlock button now. Being close to the...

It’s called‘ passive immobilising’ so they all do that, no need to lock and unlock just pressing the unlock button on the fob will remobilise the engine and if working correctly the placing the fob close to the ignition switch. You will get an indication that the fobs battery is failing, and...

If the pin has never been touched then I expect it’s seized. No other tricks but if its like my disco then three bolts holding it and so the whole item can be re moved and what ever is behind can be sprayed with your WD40 and then able to turn it with your screwdriver in the slot on end of the...

Hi, is the issue that the V8 fuel injection isn’t functioning?. The only issue Ive had is from the ‘spider’ immobiliser in that it permanently inhibiting the 12v to the ignition coil which then goes on to EFI ECU so although the engine cranked there wasn’t a spark at the plugs, and then now the...

The bonnet pin its adjustable to take up any wear. so you could try extending the pin so it goes slighter deeper into the catch on the slam panel. So slacken the bonnet pin locknut then unscrew the pin anti-clockwise just half or even a full single turn should be sufficient, then do up lock nut...

I expect so as that cover is intended as an anti tamper, its removal have been mentioned in various forums, Ive never seen one before so it looks as you have to be brutal with it. But first i’d check the electrical function of the solenoid and the wires to it.

My two minutes of Googling shows me where it’s positioned on this bit of kit… an injection pump 🤔 and based on the pt number given in an earlier post.

The original Defender & RR, but there adapters I believed to enable other wheels to be fitted. Sent via my iPad on a train

Use hight temp gas sealer, its a bit specialist so expensive, I've seen it used on high pressure steam pipes, but now its available in small DIY tubes just right for the hot V8 engine bay 😊 But then you could try normal vehicle gasket sealer or the ‘superglue type’ based sealer of various...