Search results

Pop the belt off. Sounds like alternator bearing.

OK. PScan will do it. Seem to be about £15 ukp for a remote. Fit a new case and buttons and job done !

Worth noting, again on TD4 but might be same. The cam cover has studs on bolts to prevent overtightening. Mine leaked there too!! The cam cover gasket had gone hard and as the bolts couldn't be tightened anymore it leaked. Replacement of gasket solved problem.

Not familiar with the L series, is there a feed or return oil feed to the turbo external to the engine? My TD4 had a leak from the union from the turbo to the pipe that returns oil to the sump and it is of a fair pressure of course and makes a mess !!

Lucas 17TN is what you need. Will need to be programmed to CCU. Might be able to find you one. Will PM. Can buy new case and buttons easily on ebay.

No it only comes out from below.

Wonder if another make of starter would.give the shorter length that you need ??

Simple when you've done it but impossible to see how when you haven't!! In between the pump and filter at the top is a small x head screw. Take this out until nearly free but leave in one turn as it is difficult not to drop it !! Then lift whole assembly and it lifts off the bracket...

New one about £300. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283671922672?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wKXHYALHTTO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Can be taken off a scrap car with heat gun and care to melt the glue.

Did you hold up button in until window had closed completely and then release it ?? If not it will drop immediately again.

That was my take on it from what you said. Maybe the starter welding affected the bendix arrangement and, as you say, it isn't returning. Hoping it's simple.

A feed 12v lead via a connector and a wire to ground (bodywork) on each side.

Cap it at the T piece from the vacuum accumulator before it gets to the EGR solenoid. If you cap it after the EGR solenoid it makes a noise like a duck when you switch off !! Cute, but annoying.😄

Found the problem. The seal on the reverse piston cover had swollen so that it didn't slid in smoothly. Identified when I clamped the cover to remove the circlip and could not compress the spring. Then it went in with a bang, like the gear change !! Hard to explain, but will try. First pic...

If you've read this far, the repair was a success and stopped all slipping. However, the vehicle developed a hard change into 3rd or 4th. Summary is that when I did the work I used a second-hand reverse clutch drum complete and didn't open it and change the seals. Just replaced all friction...

Also, don't mix up left and right hand parts as the adjusters are handed !!

Dunno but if you stuff it up I have a spare one 😉

If you replaced both gearbox switches and the reverse needed washers to work correctly, maybe the 1st gear needs that also and is upsetting HDC if showing on all the time ??

Tricky one. I can see what you want to do but there are 2 problems which is why no one is running to help I guess. 1. HSE interior in perfect condition is very rare and the only way I got one was to buy a rusted low mileage vehicle, again rare. 2. Facelift conversion requires bodywork...

My Icarsoft doesn't connect to SRS. Probably a connector under seat or the clock spring as you say but a proper code read will tell you which one.