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IIRC the mesh are melted/bonded somehow to the fixings on the bumper so you'll probably need to remove the bumper for access to them. If they have just come apart you should be able to glue or re-melt them.

Try the injector leak test first as it won't cost you anything! BTW it's the CAMshaft sensor that can cause warm/hot start probems. A leaking injector/s can also give more trouble when warm as diesel is thinner and passes seal easier.

Don't think it is removable without removing the whole facia or maybe airbag first. Haven't done it but airbag comes out from below. 2 screws fixing trim at base of airbag panel/above glovebox lid. 4 clips to remove another trim above glovebox lid and then 4 screws to remove it's bracket...

Check for relays behind the kick panel at the base of the drivers side A post. The lower relay of the 2 should be for fuel pump.

It's probably better to buy a timing kit so it can be set accurately, you can always recover some of the cost by selling it on ebay afterwards. Your still going to save a packet compared to garage prices. This Sealey kit is a reasonable price... Sealey VSE5666 Diesel Timing Kit Chain Drive -...

Yeah I see but the 2 woodruff keys don't fit together in any way, they are 2 individual keys, the curved edge fits into the crank. (those supplied could be of different thickness to allow selection as they have to be a tight fit) My point though is there is only one keyway or slot in the crank...

a circular woodruff key? When the damper pulley is removed there is a notch at the back that locates on the end of the key that locates the timing sprocket. The crankshaft timing sprocket protrudes through the the timing cover oil seal and the back of the damper fits inside it.

pretty sure there is only the one woodruff key that locates the timing chain sprocket.

That is what i was thinking, I thought all interiors were the same sorry

silver? looks more gold to me.....I found that an aerosol of Ford Platinum metallic did the job fine.

You shouldn't have any trouble.....it twists and pulls out of the bulkhead after you've disconnected from the pedal....recommend you bleed it after though, they tend to get air in through the self sealing coupling above the gearbox. Hold the fitting with the bleed nipple in firmly with a spanner...

less of the 'old' :) Easy to remember, PG1 gearboxes (L series and 1.8K) use the external one piece system. The Getrag gearbox (Td4s) have separate internal concentric slave cyl.

doubt it was ever bled properly if at all. IF there is still fluid in the master cylinder reservoir then it shouldn't of drawn air in which would suggest air was already present from disconnecting the pipework.

That doesn't sound good, you shouldn't be able to completely revolve the cams at TDC. The head is flat and gasket selection is critical according to piston protrusion as clearance is so fine. The valve cut outs on the piston crowns are very shallow and wouldn't clear a fully open valve. Even...

You would be surprised at the number of people that confuse the fuel pressure sensor with the fuel pressure regulator...

It's up to you but I wouldn't change the pump without first checking that seal. If the seal on the pressure reg has gone the pumps output is being lost into the return line so the pump could be fine.

Exactly why I asked. :)

It's odd that there's no MIL. Not sure if you checked the Hp sensor wiring without looking back on your other threads...

Remove the regulator from the back of the pump......the part with the electrical connection, 2 bolts........ IIRC hidden by coolant hose so requires starter removal.

if the seal that i'm referring to has gone it allows fuel to pass into the return line.