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:confused: I still got nothing but NAS info...no TD4?? did you use a different link crockett?

**** and i've deleted it now! I think what must have happened is when i've clicked on the welcome screen my Pc has opened this old NAS copy I have and not the newer one. Will download it again, thanks.....;)

Seen this one a few years ago, unfortunately north american origin so only KV6 Auto......shame whoever put it together left out everything relevant to manual diesels etc to reduce the file size. It still has some limited use on the body side though.

Yes as above, water enters rear door at window seal and can exit into car from base of door card. But my own problems (on a 5 door) were caused by water getting into the back of the door seal (where it pushes onto the body) on the vertical sections and as it ran down it was passing around to...

possible faulty ignition switch......

it's a common fault so I doubt it will be anything else........

sticking fuel pump relay perhaps?

The long one across the front of the engine or the smaller right angled one, battery side are the usual ones that split or rub through.

Well done mate, a straight forward fix is always good news....;)

slim chance it could be the Hp fuel pressure sensor or its connection/harness.......

makes no difference on a Td4.....

There could be a fan control module fault, if it's that hot the fans should be on and continue to run even after switching off. The gauge and the ecm/fan control share the same coolant temp sensor so if the gauge is behaving normally then assume the sensor is ok.

Yes there have been various versions and amendments of their towbars, some that need complete removal of the towing eye, some have loose packings for the crossmember bolts others have welded brackets. At the end of the day some common sense is needed as there will be tolerances to compensate...

Instructions with LR towbars say remove the towing eye..... sounds like you may have a bad one but don't expect any to be a tight fit between chassis rails, there has to be a few mil for manufacturing tolerances and jiggle room. It should pull up ok unless the gap is particularly wide. Up to...

you did remove the original towing eye didn't you? it's not unusual to have to pry a tow bar over one way or another to get a start on those middle bolts

were the fans running full speed when you pulled over?

ok well no point in tapping the Hp pump. They're reliable apart from the occasional one with external leakage. just confirm it's getting a good supply of fuel for now. you can try the fuel reset button rear passenger side of engine bay but I believe if that had tripped the fuel Lp pump...

:confused: assume your talking about the Lp pump. you said you could hear it running so no point in tapping it. can you confirm.......you had no fuel emitting from the return line at ignition on when you checked injector leakage? if so what i'm suggesting though is you confirm it is actually...

should have had some fuel from the return line if you didn't clamp it. you could remove Lp supply pipe from the Hp pump and see if you get anything from there when ignition first turned on. (pump times out after 1min.) take care though if Lp pump is working it should **** out.

It'll be an expensive guess wherever you get one. Always carry out free test/fault finding first. Injector leak test costs nothing but time..... If the engine will run on a little easystart then it could be the cam sensor, or less common the crank sensor.